I'm having trouble soldering to the d-pad spots on 360 pcb

i’m making a wireless 360 stick but i’m having issues soldering to the d-pad spots. are there any other spots that are easier to solder to? like on the back side or anything?

also another question. besides the dpads spots right now, i have all the signal spots soldered do i just have to use one ground for all the buttons? i’m using this pic http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg

generally you can scrape the solder point with a razor or something similar to get a better contact.

Its just so tiny (thats the issue I’m having with it)

I just tried soldering my first 360 pcb. I succesfully removed all 4 copper points while trying to solder on it x.x! I resorted to soldering on the back alternate points. Worked much better, and with the points already having solder on them all I had to do was tin the wire, and touch the iron to the spot, and touch the wire to it and it sank right in. Jst be extra carful since they are so close together. Don’t use too much extra solder or you may link the points.

do you have a picture of those alternate spots? i’m working on the late version wireless.

This might help (traces by RDC):





should i be scraping those alternate spots to expose some metal?

can someone help me with the grounds? do i need only one ground for all the signals? or are the different grounds for a set of buttons specifically?

according to the picture, there are 3 grounds. so i’m a little confused.

That is a Common Line Microsoft Wireless Xbox 360 Controller.
Only need one Ground wire. (If doing without Triggers.)

More than one point shown for convenience.
Some people like to use one for Directions, and another for Buttons.

A non-Common Ground would have seven seperate Ground Traces.
Is so have seven set of inputs.

TP2 and TP22 are great ground solder points and easy to connect to (look at the bottom left of the bottom pcb pic)

meh not tiny by all means…

alright, i was able to solder to the dpad spots on the back. much easier than the front contact points.

i haven’t been able to test it out yet because i haven’t decided on how to power it since it’s wireless. i’m going with either hacking a play and charge kit. or using a battery holder. any suggestions with this?

i’m using an old 360 case for my stick. i’m trying to integrate the rear usb port if i go the play n charge kit route. i’m also using the on/off button on the face plate as the guide button. still trying to figure out how to make the lights on the faceplate function like they do on the controller. also wiring up the sync button on the faceplate as well. hopefully it all works out. still brainstorming on where to place the start and back buttons.

if you go with the play’n’charge route then you don’t really need to put in a sync button as when you plug in the play’n’charge cable into the system it auto ‘sync’ anyways…

Cool. Did you have to scrape anything?

yeah i scraped right around the little hole to expose some metal. it helps to use a smaller gauge wire.

I used 30gauge wires on mine. It was a lot easier to work with.

i tested out all my connection and found that the triggers don’t work. i thought i messed up some how but figured out they work with a different ground then the rest of the buttons.

on that diagram what do those purple lines mean?

it’s kind of hard to read what the letters say and there are a few different purples. there’s a more closeup picture out there but i’m not sure where it is.

Grrr! I’ve spent the last hour trying to solder to the normal points and I give up (the contact area is just too tiny, thinnest wire I have is 24AWG and my iron picks up the solder so I have nothing to attach the tinned wire to).

Does anyone happen to have a pic of the back alternate points scraped off/soldered to? I’m worried about accidentally scraping off a trace and ruining my pcb all together.