Dragging a case down because I want to drop test it?
So then buy one and drop test it, no ones stopping you.
I’m afraid I’ll have to buy two…
After my experience, I’m not too keen on all plastic cases you’d have to forgive me if I have some doubt.
But what are you doing that you’re expecting to drop a stick off of anything higher than your lap? Most people don’t keep their fightsticks in their breast pocket like a phone. Furthermore, when people travel with anything bigger than a book, they usually carry it in a carrying case, be it a backpack or a plastic bag. While I don’t have a tak case mini, I do happen to have a lot of the impact modified acrylic that Art deals in, and it’s tough stuff. I can personally vouch for the suff as I’ve seen quite a few fightsticks with Art’s faceplates being thrown against the ground/wall/backyard fence board in moments of intense emotion (read: anger) and coming out of it with only minor scratches and scrapes.
financialwar, its acrylic plastic. What do you want?
You want Tough stick case that is drop resistant, make out of solid block milled from titanium steel alloy.
I will be looking into the flat version, as I initially planned for that option, but it requires a redesign on the side joints so I haven’t had time to dive into that yet. The interest has been for the slanted version so I’ve been focusing on that. Thanks for your feedback for that. I’ve replied to your email in regards to the Hayabusa stick and am looking into it.
I’ve definitely been considering more countersunk screw options since I’ve been reliably able to do that with our laser process now, for our 1/8" material. The only thing I’ve been concerned with is when someone decides to add artwork along with the 1/16" plexi panel to sandwich the artwork. Countersinking the 1/16" was a challenge for stability purposes, as the thin edges getting lasered ended up being too brittle. However, I’ve recently found a setting that may successfully do that more reliably and I’m still in the process of testing it out. It requires a bit of work, but if it all works out, I can offer the countersunk screw hole options for future cases. However, the one drawback is it does add a bit more time to do, so I’m still playing around with that relative to our production process.
These cases are made with Acrylic, and are indeed not “meant” to be dropped. It will likely survive if say you drop it from knee height (about 2 feet), onto well carpeted flooring, but it’s definitely not advertised to be an incredibly tough case. It is for those who would like an aesthetically pleasing, and affordable DIY case option, with the understanding that it is a great show case piece. It’s absolutely functional, but it’s not meant to go against the heavy duty cases. And even with the heavy duty plastic cases, if you drop it from 3 feet or more, onto a hard floor, you’re likely going to see some damage.
Everything is also relative to weight. With the Mini-Tek case, the idea is also that the entire case will be pretty light. So light falls won’t do much damage. And in the case of any damage, the damaged part is easily replaced, as opposed to needing an entire new case.
With that said, if anyone is known to be rough with their sticks, or find themselves playing in a harsh environment, then these cases probably aren’t for them. For those who like to showcase their fightsticks and take extra care, I’ve had feedback that their cases have been lasting for years, since my first versions.
On another note, I’m considering working on 1/8" Baltic Birch Plywood cases in the future. So, that could be something for the heavier hitters.
Does the -For those wanting 24mm as their main buttons, add that detail to the “Additional Notes”- apply to the hitbox layout considering its supposed to have all the face buttons as 24mm except for the 30mm one in the bottom middle?
I want to fill out the excel sheet correctly.
If you can make countersunk screws work, that would be best. I don’t think it’s actually a big deal atm because of the slant, but some people might be more picky about stuff like that. I might see if I can get my hands on some low profile screws like these, just to see how much of a difference they make:
I’m still pretty curious about the hitbox styled mini. If someone has one built, or is getting one build, they should post some pictures. I really want to see how well hands would fit on it.
I want to build one. I just want to make sure it has the proper 24mm layout with the single 30mm button.
I haven’t finished building mine yet, still need to get the buttons and figure out what pcb I want, but I can show you what I do have. I have big hands, so keep that in mind.
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/KwyjiboFGC/100_0129_zpslvz4ufdt.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/KwyjiboFGC/100_0123_zpscmk7dwdd.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/KwyjiboFGC/100_0126_zpsziw0zyo3.jpg
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm37/KwyjiboFGC/100_0127_zps3juevnsr.jpg
It seems to be a good size.
@Kwyjibo Damn, that case is pretty slick. That actually looks like the ideal kind of size to me. I’m kinda sad that I got the bigger case now… to late to turn back though, cause I already ordered all the parts, heh heh.
Just showing off a few cases in this weekend’s production that’s about to ship out =)
Oh man is that one on the right MINE?! Sooooo sick
Maaaayyybeee… 
So jealous. These look amazing
Got mine last week. Already finished up the Wiring just waiting on buttons.
Edit: Nevermind
can you do custom buttons layout? I just need it to be like the last 6 buttons of the hori1 stick(the old old version). will provide template of course.