I find it hard to believe that you fried the board, just from looking at it, but this is a perfect example of where a multimeter really helps out.
If you have a multimeter, or can get your hands on one, first test the cable to see if the colors correlate properly with the male USB-A connector on the end. It might be hard to believe that it happens, not all USB cables are made to code and as a general rule you should always be suspicious of the colors. I tend to test and flag all of mine with a note saying if they are correct, or what the correct wiring should be.
The next step is to test continuity along the cable. Even if you have a new cable, when troubleshooting there is no room to leave this step out.
Finally, test for continuity all the way from the end of the USB-A connector, to the other side of the board, not the side you soldered to (which will account for the integrity of your solder joint). If any one of those steps fails before you get to this last one, take careful note and look for other evidence to suspect that part.
If everything checks out up to this point, you should test to see that none of the signals are shorted. Not only should you test the ones adjacent to each other, but test each signal to every other. It so happens that a piece of conductive material can find its way into a USB cable or connector (such as a staple or the like) and short signals not adjacent to each other on the board. The only two that could be shorted (and usually are) are GND and S.GND, which isn’t a problem.
It is possible that the board is irreparably damaged, and the first practice I’d suspect over the quality of the solder joints themselves is the amount of time that you left the iron on the board. It’s often necessary to spend more time on soldering ground connections, due to the nature of the ground plane (layer of the board acting as a common point of connection for ground) acting as a heatsink. Nearly any other connection (and any ground connections based on traces alone) has a low tolerance for heat absorption and dissipation, and excessive time (without short breaks) spent on them can cause the traces to become physically damaged, usually because the pads which you solder to are lifted and disconnected from the rest of the trace, or the trace itself is lifted. It is possible to burn the board and to damage the solder mask, but this is caused mostly by excessive heat and force (a sure combination to avoid), and I do not see evidence of this kind of damage in your work.
Another note about your soldering which leaves me to believe that you spent a lot of time reworking these joints is how “dry” the solder looks. When solder is new and has an appropriate amount of flux distributed in the metal, it appears smooth and shiny. It will act more like a fluid when melted and closely bond to heated components. With extensive rework, and every time you melt the solder, more flux will evaporate (what you see as white fumes coming from the iron) and it will gradually turn into a more sloughy mixture until it becomes so depleted of flux that it will not conduct heat properly and will not adhere with heated materials or cohere with itself. At this point the solder can have voids, cracks, and debris internally, which cause a lack of electrical connection. In a nutshell, this is how the RROD is caused (continual cycles of reflowing cause solder to break an electrical connection).
