Is this mod easy to do for someone new to modding? I have never soldered before either. You need to resolder the buttons on the HRAP2 if you exchange the Hori ones for Sanwa correct?
And is it hard to put in a Sanwa stick?
I had a HRAP soem time back, but didn’t like the square gate and buttons…so, it’s either a modded HRAP2 or a custom by DreadedFist for me…
It already has a Sanwa stick. You don’t really have to solder the Sanwa buttons, which can be installed easily just by disconnecting and reconnecting the quick disconnects on the stock Hori buttons. The hardest thing about it is putting the bolts back on after your finished.
DreadedFist makes great sticks, it’s a tough choice. But with DF’s sticks, you wouldn’t have to do any modding, and you get custom artwork …
Ah, that’s good, so the buttons aren’t a problem. I take it the Sanwa stick has a square gate? Would placing an octagonal gate on it be too much of a problem?
As for DF’s sticks…I can’t really find any good Samurai Spirits or Fist of the Northstar artwork…that is what’s kinda holding me back…
Anyway, thanks for the help.
the only question i have:
why buy an HRAP2 just to mod it with a Seimitsu? you could’ve probably found cheaper sticks that fit Seimitsus easily.
otherwise, good work! 
You can buy octagonal gates designed specifically for the JLF that’s in the HRAP2, so all you have to do is take the square gate out, put the octagonal gate in, and you’re flyin 
Ok, cool
The stuff himuragames has will fit on the Sanwa stick that’s in the HRAP2, right? They have the octagonal gate and balltops (I want another color) for the JLF.
Also, what size buttons would I need? The 30MM snap-ins?
Yup, the stuff at Himura Games will be perfect and yes, 30mm buttons will fit right into the HRAP2. Both snap-in’s and screw-in’s are fine.
I am quite fond of the size/weight of the HRAP1/2. For me, it’s the best combination of portability and playability. Maybe some people are fine with a smaller stick, but I find the HRAP to feel most similar to playing on a real machine. I’m also fond of the aesthetics–looks are important too!
Thanks
i see. aesthetics can be changed a lot. you could probably make any stick look like the HRAP/2 for less than $80, but yeah, the size and weight are impossible to imitate.
what are you doing wit the sanwa stick now? is it still a JLF-TP-8y? looks like it, but i can’t be too sure.
You’ll need 30 mm buttons for to replace the red ones (all but start and select), and 24 mm buttons to replace the yellow ones (start and select). The quick disconnects are a little bit loose, so you may want to crimp them a little before closing your stick back up. I just left mine loose, but closing the stick is kind of a pain due to the bolt locations, so you may wanna just take care of that your first go round.
It’s only snap ins, I just tried to fit in some screw ins and the X won’t fit because it’s really close to the stick plate thingy. I need to order snap ins now =(
Great read, I’m now considering of buying a hrap2 to modify it :tup:
As we are talking about measures, what is the standard lenght for the joystick shaft in japanese arcades (I’m talking about the part that goes from the top of the panel to the bottom of the joystick ball) ?
i’m not sure, but 1 inch works well for me.
I take it you mean the disconnects on the stick? How exactly are they loose?
He’s talking about the quick disconnects that attach to the buttons. When you push them onto a switch prong, they can still be moved left/right/forward/back with little effort. Not usually a problem, unless they’re so loose that any movement causes them to fall off the button.
they will fall off, 3 of em fell off my original hrap… had to pinch them tighter with some pliars and then they were good
really? that sux
Yeah, I’m just gonna order ONE snap in cause i just swapped the white screw ins from my old HRAP into this and it looks damn good… except for that one red button… =(
Screw ins work for all the buttons except X which sucks lol
Would it be possible to use a dremel to slice off the edge of the mounting plate that’s blocking the X button? It’s really only there to fit seimitsu sticks, and even if you were to fit a seimitsu in im pretty sure losing only one of the six screw points wouldn’t affect the mounting much, if at all.
edit: also, I’ve seen pictures of the inside of the HRAP2 and you’re right about the mounting plate being right in the way. It looks fixable by dremeling off the corner though. What I can’t figure out is why the x button is so much closer to the mounting plate than the t5 hori stick, which could fit the screw in’s easily. Is it just because the buttons are just abit closer to the stick, or did the mounting plate get huge? o_O
Easily??? Those were a bitch for me.
But to answer your question, the stick mounting plate in the US T5 stick is quite a bit smaller than a ‘real’ mounting plate like the HRAP2 has, since the US T5 stick was only made for the hori stick, and not for real arcade parts.