thanks for the tutorial tingboy. i swapped out my stock buttons with sanwa buttons using the tutorial as easy as you said it was. only problem i’m having now is that the cords inside that are unhooked w/the last 2 buttons on the right are now loose inside and make noises when i play. oh well, i don’t want to re-open the case so i’ll leave it as it is.
That’s a bad idea. If the ends touch, they’ll go off. You might start doing random actions. Just take some electrical tape and cover the ends, then tape down the wires so they don’t jiggle around. If you don’t play any games that have L1/L2 mapped, then I guess you don’t have to worry about it.
Hey tingboy,
thanks for a great tutorial, quick question. I take it ppl generally just replace stock buttons or is the stick not that good either?
thanks
Most people just replace the buttons. The stock stick is fine (it’s a Sanwa JLF), but some people may swap it out for a Seimitsu LS-32-01 due to preference.
well this is a noobish question but i cant spin off the ball top on the stocked jlf kinda looks weird with blue buttons and redball top
Odd. You just need to stick a slotted (flat-head) screwdriver in the slot at the bottom of the JLF shaft, then spin the balltop clockwise. You might need a bit of strength for that first initial spin.
Is it possible to paint the turbo switches a different color or something? I kind of wanted to keep them there for the hell of it but the redness doesn’t match.
I don’t see why not. Just make sure you don’t paint over the metal part on the backs of the switches.
i got a HRAP2 a few weeks ago and swapped out the buttons for Sanwas. Today i got an LS3201 and swapped that in. all thanks to this faq!
it was all foolproof, well done faq Tingboy. i especially liked the exact size driver # that was used for each step. that helped. (i needed new a new driver set anyways and wound up with the same set you have in your tutorial. they work well, and were well worth the $25 i spent on them).
FYI i used the alternate method for rotating the PCB on the LS3201 (by just taking off the mounting plate and rotating it). i used a #2 phillips for it.
ill try to get a pic posted up at some point.
thanks Tingboy.
Yea, someone mentioned that near the beginning of the thread. Another good alternative =). I just don’t like it. I’ve had bad experiences taking off mounting plates. (Damn you Sanwa mounting plate!!!)
it was extremely effortless with a #2 driver on the seimetsu mounting plate.
either way would work though.
Are the screws for the Seimitsu mounting plate not glued in like the Sanwa JLF’s?
nope not glued in. nice snug fit, but the right driver made short work of them. it went very smooth.
also, the right driver made taking the Sanwa out of the HRAP2 a snap. wasnt a chore at all.
super easy mod, great stick made even better.
Oh I wasn’t talking about those screws. I meant the ones that attach the mounting plate to the JLF. Those had something extra holding them in. I’m guessing some sort of adhesive.
yeah, thats what i meant too. the screw attaching the mounting plate to the LS32 were not glued in. they were easy to remove.
the second part of my post was in reference to the part in your tutorial that said the JLF could be tough to remove. i had no problem with it. the #2 phillips took those screws out no problem.
Ahh I see. I only posted that because when I worked on my friend’s HRAP2, I used old screwdrivers, so I kind of stripped 1 screw =P. When I realized that my screwdrivers sucked, I went out to buy that new set of screwdrivers for myself =D. But yea, just a warning since you have to reuse 2 of the screws.
I wish Sanwa would make “skeleton” buttons like seimitsus ps-14k series. I like the sensitivity of the obsn-30. One can only dream /sigh.
You can always try to buy some PS-14-K buttons, then swap out the microswitches for Sanwa ones. Too bad PS-14-KN buttons can’t do it =\
TingBoy, is it possible to switch the microswitches from the PS-14 with the Sanwas? This has me very intrigued. Maybe I missed this, but did you also do a tutorial on this somewhere?
From what I hear, you can put Sanwa switches in Seimitsu PS-14-K (snap-ins), not Seimitsu PS-14-KN (screw-ins). I haven’t done a tutorial on this because I haven’t done it yet. I want to, but it’s not a necessity since I find my PS-14-K switches perfectly fine.