Can I use resistors that say 5% tolerance? cause they have 10k ohm, 1/4 watt resistors that have 1% or 5% tolerance for the specs.
thanks in advance.
Can I use resistors that say 5% tolerance? cause they have 10k ohm, 1/4 watt resistors that have 1% or 5% tolerance for the specs.
thanks in advance.
I have a madcatz 4726 pad and was wondering if it was common ground but i can’t seem to get my computer to detect it, any advice on this?
This is a great hack. I have a question though… I recently came across a 2007 MadCatz (Elite) controller… http://images.smarter.com/300x300x15/10/74/25474.jpg and I was wondering if I still needed the hex inverter chip for the triggers? I’m trying to dual mod and I only use 6 buttons on my arcade stick as is being X, Circle, Triangle, Square, R1, R2 (Ps3) and trying to get this 360 hacked pad in the stick using the graph displayed on the “2 pcb’s in 1” thread.
All in all, wondering about R1, and R2… thanks.
Hey guys, I’m close to finished with my first box, but I have one questing concerning the daisy chaining/common ground aspect of this pad.
As I understand it, Because the pcb is common ground, i only need to attach one ground wire to one of the ground points on the pcb.
This ground wire can go from pcb to each button on the stick Ex: pcd->rb, rb->B, B-> A etc…
I don’t have to have each buttons ground wire, go directly to its corresponding ground point on the PCB (because its common ground)
Sorry for being so elementary. I think I have it in my head but I want to make sure before I start soldering stuff.
I’m super pumped to be almost done with my first stick…already have plans for 2,3,4 and 5…
That is right HotSauce_Magik.
I started out wiring my buttons (a,B,Y,X, lb, rb) When I did the buttons they all worked %100. About a week later my joystick showed up so I went to finsh my pad. So I wired up the start, select, home, and the d-pad.
After finishing the soldering I than rechecked the buttons , they worked. I cunpluged the pad to wire up my stick . So I hooked the wires from my pad into 1 end of the barrier strip . I thaen went to plug my pad in so I could test witch wire was wich on the wiring harness. Thats when my problem started , my pad would cut out constantly. Everytime I plug the PCB in , the four green lights start up , and they dont blink and go to the 1p or 2p spot, the pad will light up for qbout 3 seconds and than shut off. The pad Im using is the madcatz 4716-1 the same pcb on the first page. I was going to do the triggers but I decided since it was my fiorst attempt I would hold off and try for just 6 buttons.
Aslo checked all the points with a meter, it was a ghetto one that would lght up and all my points got light , but I cxant get the pcb to stay on. Any help would be appreciated.
hey guys I bought this 10k ohm resistor but different color from the one from this guide.
Would this still work? :china:
thanks
That looks fine Different manufacturers use different colors.
Thank you Upas (for helping a registered noob). <- Its the man himself.
Again this guide has been so invaluable to me and also for others. I wouldn’t know how I would able to live without this guide!:china:
Ok I figured out 1 of the wires on the power source was dissconecyed. So I got power all my buttons work, now I just cant seem to get my stick hooked up properly. I have a wire harness that came with a ls 32 stick , the harness is brandnew and Im using a jlf + wire barriers. I have 4716 pad all my soder points look good , the onlky problem is , it seems to register in the corners only. So just say I hook up the right conecion it will move right when I hit a diagonal, the only direction I can get to work is LEFT that works fine evry other direction only activates when in a diagonal position ( up+ back, 0r Down + forward) so bascically I det my movements in a crouching block position and or jumping back will make him duck.
I have tried hooking up 1 wire at a time and like I said the only direction I can get is left. Hopfully someone can answer my quetion this ime.
Upas, you’re the man!
Shit! look what happened to my wires while trying your tutorial.
LOL
http://i34.tinypic.com/rv95w7.jpg
Folks, if you are not good with electronics smaller than a dime, this would be a very hard task for you. ROFL
Props to you, Upas, you make it look easy in the tutorial.
tinning the wires and solder points is a mans best friend with these little points
Can you put a tutorial out for soldering beautifully with style?
I did tin my equipment, so I was able to connect the pins however, I cannot solder to make it look nice to save my life. The wires look crazy because I used aligator clips so I don’t burn my hands.
I can’t do a tutorial on it, but the wires you use also helps… the wire looks quite thick on that…
My advise, for this particular hack, use cat 5 cable. For dual mods, use 30 awg cable. It’ll make your life much much easier.
ah crap i used 24 awg solid
I like to use a perf board if I need to solder to a chip.
nice guide. hopefully i can make it through my first padhack no problems. /Murphy’s law
Just a little note: If you break off the contact for LT or RT, you can get it back via a nearby resistor on the opposite side of the board. Just check your multimeter readings.
Ok, so I’m having trouble with this pad. The weirdest crap.
I don’t have the triggers used. I didn’t even take them off.
Everything else works fine, except for left, Guide, LB, and RB. I can’t even comprehend what’s going on with the left directional button.
Ok, so I just checked this on my computer. The RB problem, it’s showing up as a completed circuit when the stick is in neutral. If I move the stick to hit left, RB depresses, so what I’m getting is negative edge.
I still need help then, because that doesn’t explain what’s going on, why, and what to do to fix it.
And now LB won’t work at all.
Quick question… I accidentally removed the pot thinking it was a useless piece of the controller. Is this what’s causing the controller to not fully start? That’s what I’m understanding from this tutorial and what happened