Well it can’t be the microswitch as the stick works perfectly with the psx and I don’t think its the joints. I am worried it could just be a bad pcb.
I was wondering if it could be due to not having 10k ohm resistors between the high and wiper, but I don’t know if that would make any difference.
I decided to resolder again (for the 3rd time) and I think you were right. Hasn’t been coursing me issues so I guess, 3rd time lucky.
cheers
I have a question about hacking the 2009 mc pad. If I do 6buttons plus the dpad I dont need the 10k ohm resistor? I read on pg 1 when it was said dont forget to add ground wires? I am new and dont understand this. If I have a signal then I attach it to button and dpad or Is it signal attach to dpad and buttons and ground wires also attach to the buttons and dpad as well since there 2 outlets on each buttons. I am using happ buttons and happ bat stick? Any information is much appreciate it. Would there be a totally of 26 wires or 13? 6 butttons 4 dpad 3 guide/select/start? I am new to this so again any info is much appreciated.
That is correct, if you have a 6 button layout you don’t need the resistors. Just make sure that the potentiometers (the trigger mechanism) is set to neutral. When it comes to wiring your grounds, this pad is a common ground pad, which means you can use any ground point on the pcb to tap the ground signal. Therefore if you are doing a 6 button layout + directions + st/bk/guide you’d need a minimum of 14 wires, one for each signal and one ground. You’d then have to daisy chain the grounds together, that is to wire up one ground from the pcb to a microswitch then take the same ground signal and wire that up to another microswitch. Read up on slagcoin before you even attempt to do this.
Joystick Controller - PCB and Wiring
Also watch this video and learn how to solder properly if you already don’t know how to do so
[media=youtube]I_NU2ruzyc4[/media]
Thanks you sir this information is much appreciated!
Question could the barrier strip take the place of the hex inverter? It seems like the barrier strip is similar to the hex inverter?
no the barrier strip and the hex inverter are two different things, the hex inverter converts the signals from active high to active low, however if you’re going 6 button layouts, then you dont’ need the hex inverter and just use the two bumper buttons and keep the analogs on neutral
When you say neutral you mean just use the hot glue gun and make sure they dont move? Ive seen some people who put resistors on them and some who just has some glue. Thanks again you have been alot of help.
forget last post figured it out. Put it in the computer/control setting and make sure analog/triggers neural then glue. I just need stranded wire not solid correct?
Awesome! Big ups for this one. Ill definitely be referencing back to this thread
Yeppers. Oh dear I feel like I’ve resurrected a zombie thread now…
Long time reader, first time poster!
Hopefully just a quick one: Have had a look through several threads regarding the padhacking for triggers requiring an inverter but struggled to find anything truly helpful regarding my question. I have this exact same one but I also have HAPP buttons with the Cherry switches (that have the closed pin as well as the open and ground). Is there a way I can connect this (somehow using that inverted pin) without using the hex inverter or do I need to brush up on my soldering skills? I need this for a dual mod, if that helps.
Cheers!
Needs to be updated. Certain revisions (Rev. E, Rev. G) do not require that you invert the triggers.
I am trying to padhack one of those common-ground Chinese Xbox 360 pads, and I was able to do the inverter hack about as easily as one might expect. However, even though all the buttons and D-pad directions work fine, the joysticks are stick in the corners and wiggle around whenever I press a button! It’s really stupid, and I have no idea why they’re doing this since I did not remove the analog sticks. Does anyone know what this is, and how to make it stop? I have the PCB wired to an MC Cthulhu and Imp switch.
Remove the Analog Sticks and neutralize them with Resistors.
Two Resistors per Potentiometer.
Each Analog Stick has two.
Are you sure that will fix the problem? I was under the impression that you only needed to install resistors if you wanted to remove the analog sticks completely, and I want to make sure I know what is causing the problem before I spend another 2 hours fighting with the solder on this thing…
OK, this is really strange-- for some reason when I press A,B,X,Y, and RB at the same time the joysticks go back to neutral, but if I release any of them then it goes further towards the upper right corner. I think my best bet is to remove the joysticks and install resistors to neutralize them, so I’ll be going back to Radio Shack this evening to pick up more 10k resistors. Which pins should I be soldering the ends of the resistors to if I need two resistors per pot?
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/9361/everythingwentbettertha.png
Problem solved-- I removing the joysticks and soldered the resistors to it, and I saw no change at all. I was trying some different resistors and diodes to see if I could make it work correctly, and at one point I left the pins one of the pots completely desoldered with nothing attached, and by coincidence I left it that way and went to plug in my joystick again-- it turns out, the solution was to remove the pots and not replace them with anything. Now my joystick is working great! 
Hi all guys, i have a problem with a Madcatz 4716 common ground hack i did some times ago, on a tourney this week-end the “left” input stop working 
keep behind my huge blasphemies… i check in place on the bottom and i didn’t see any loose contact, so i cannot deal with, i’m at home now and still didn’t find the problem, so i check with a single wire to short the contact on the PCB and what the fuck… it seems dead, no signal, but the other one around it (i mean right, up and down) work correctly so i really didn’t catch where the problem is… any suggest?
the LE point. i flip the little pcb too for checking the contact and everything is still soldered so i really miss something -.-, wtf happen?
Are these still fairly easy to snag at gamestop? Would like to avoid inverters for the triggers, anyway to tell from the box?
Edit: assuming it is one of these"
http://www.gamestop.com/xbox-360/accessories/xbox-360-control-pad/42850
http://www.gamestop.com/xbox-360/accessories/gamestop-xbox-360-controller/43229
