regarding happs p360 joystick
So, I read this thread (all of it). Lots of good info I plan on using when I start my mod…
Well back in posting #68 someone asked about Happs p360 joystick. So far no responses…
Is a p360 stick compatible with this mod? Do you have to run a separate 5v adapter? or can you solder directly to pcb ?
i have a quick question in regards to padhacking the madcatz controller. i do not plan on doing the triggers at all. but LB is normally the 3xpunch button. what would i solder that to? maybe im over thinking it, but where does it connect to so it acts as roundhouse instead of 3xpunch?
according to the MC Cthulhu documentation paper found on this thread:
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=225565
its telling me to wire RB and LB to F and G on the MC Cthulhu, but is that the same whether im using the triggers or not?
Edit: nevermind, i got my question answered
I have just finished a pad hack of a 2009 pcb, with the Hex Inverter to allow the use of the Left and Right Triggers.
The good news is it works but only by complete fluke and I don’t understand why it works at all.
I followed the guide and wired up the Hex Inverter as described, when I came to test the pad all buttons functioned correctly except the Left and Right Triggers. When pressed the pad would reset. I checked all the connections and made sure there were no crossed wires (in doing so I accidentally snapped one of the resistors from the Power wire), when I retested one of the buttons worked and the other didn’t and after realizing what I had done I removed the other resistor as well and both buttons function correctly.
I have checked the pad on Windows and it is now functioning perfectly (without resistors) which is extremely lucky as I would have had no idea how to correct the issue I was having.
Can anyone explain why this works? I hope this may be helpful to anyone experiencing a similar issue.
Che
how the hell do I neutralize pots on my madcatz 4716 pcb Vers E.
I removed the triggers and have no use for the LT and RT. I read that you need to hot glue them neutralized but what da heck does that mean.
I enclosed some pictures of the pcb plugged in, iam on a mac so this is the preference panel for the pcb.
http://gregydesigns.com/images/Picture%201.png
Heres with the pcb plugged in
http://gregydesigns.com/images/Picture%202.png
This is the LT completely pressed
http://gregydesigns.com/images/Picture%203.png
Heres where I tried to get LT and RT in the middle just for reference. Do I want one all the way up and one all the way down…confused what neutralized means.
You want to for each trigger solder on 2 10k ohm resistors. 1/8 or 1/4 watt should do. You need a total of 4. You need to put a resistor between low and wiper and High and wiper.
Glueing them to neutral involves leaving the pots as they where and superglueing them in place, but once you have cut them off you need to go the resistor route.
Cool thanks rtdzign. I am confused tho because I didnt cut the pots off I just removed the plastic triggers.
Below is copy and pasted from OP.
**"Step 5b: Wiring up the triggers TO DO NOTHING
If you’ve decided you don’t need the triggers, then you don’t have to do much.
I don’t have pictures for this, but I will work on getting them the next time I do a padhack.
First, plug in the USB cord of the pad into your computer. Go to Control Panel -> Game Controllers, and click on the Madcatz Xbox 360 Controller.
Click properties and bring up the window to test the pad.
The triggers control the Z-axis, so we will only be looking at that.
Spin the pots around. You should see the Z-axis move. We need to find a placement of both pots that leaves the Z-axis right in the middle.
Spin the pots around until you find this placement, then hot glue the pots down, neutralizing them"**
So Iam confused even more now.
What is confusing about that? Plug it into your Mac and open up that screen shows the inputs. The triggers work by spinning those little plastic things. If you take a small flat head screw driver you can spin them around to change how much the trigger is pressed down. . Once you find where it is in the middle of the z-axis, you take your glue and glue down the pot so it can’t spin anymore. You need to make sure is still set at the middle of the z axis just like picture 3. That is neutral. The pot basically is a variable resistor. Setting it in the middle is makes the resistance equal on both sides just like 2 resistors.
So either do like Upas wrote or cut them off and do like I wrote earlier.
I personally like the resistor route because you might possibly move the pot as you glue it down or be a little off center.
You have to eye ball it…noooooooo. I will post my results. Thanks for the help.
Quick question for the thread… Long ago i hacked my 4716 pad and it works fine. I have no plans to hack the triggers, so thats not an option.
For SFIV and SSFIV there seems to be NO default config setting that does not use either LT or RT for one of the 6 main buttons right? I wanted to setup my my wiring so that for xbox and PS3 I would always be able to simply pick “scheme A/B/C” quickly and have it work. Since there is no scheme that doesn’t use LT or RT for a main button, it seems that no matter what I am stuck using a “custom” scheme. Its not a problem, its just more time remapping in tournaments (granted it can be done quickly)
Also, what prevents me from using a “controller” control scheme. Everytime I swap to them, half my buttons do nothing. I don’t understand why that would be, technically I have a gamepad PCB in my joystick, why doesn’t it let me use the other buttons, maybe my triggers are pushed down or something and its screwing me up?
Inverting with Chimp board
Hey there,
I’m just getting ready to start this mod, but I’m dual modding a custom stick with this pcb and a Chimp board. Is it necessary to do the inversion that’s in this tutorial for the Chimp board? It has spots for both inverted and non-inverted wires.
Thanks.
Yes, this PCB requires Inverting.
Quick question guys. Is the Thicker black ground that attaches to the PCB from the USB cord necessary?
I actually had cut the USB cord for another project a while back and now need to reattach one to this madcatz pcb.
Not need.
Hey, I was just referred to this site by a friend, and I have an alternate solution for the triggers: as Retri pointed out some time ago…
This is very true, however, Retri left the pots in place and just adjusted them to “off” values, then shorted the middle pin to high to activate. I tried this at first, but then stopped when I realized it was shorting my pad. With the pot set to off, there is very low resistance between middle and low. Then, by shorting middle to high, you inadvertently short high to low, which just made the pad turn off for me, but I guess I’m lucky it didn’t fry or something…
My solution was to simply remove the pot, and solder a 10k ohm pull-down resistor between middle (signal) and low. Then shorting middle to high is not a problem. Note: This is only if you don’t mind your triggers being active high. If you do this, you can’t connect your triggers to the same common as the rest of the circuit. I can’t see a situation where this would be a problem, but you have been warned. I hope this makes padhacking easier for someone…
Fix to a broken RT pot
Hi guys,
Im a newbie here, i would like to say thanks to Upas for this awesome guide, no doubt it help me dual mod a Hori FS3!
Anyways, i’ve noticed some posts regarding help about ripping off their RT pot points, i’ve done the exact same thing and felt really stupid. However, i wasn’t going to give up without a fight. Heres how i fixed mine by following the traces and finding the alternate points (sorry i dunno how to attach images so posted links instead -noob):
RT Low and Full View
http://img823.imageshack.us/i/1rtlowandfullview.jpg/
This is a full view of the fix, its mainly to show the following linkages:
> RT pot low is connected to the LT pot low
> RT pot high connection
> RT pot wiper to the back
Also the very small kynar wire from the black blob in the middle links to the back of the controller)
RT Wiper Front
http://img819.imageshack.us/i/2rtwiperfront.jpg/
This point is a really tough bitch to soldier, i highly recommend someone with decent soldiering skills to hit the 5th point from the right. People who do wii chips or the ps2 slim can get this easily. My tip is… flux the point, tin the wire, align the wire in line with the point, then apply the soldiering iron onto the wire so that it melts the soldier onto the point.
Once this is done, the other end of the wire leads to the back of the controller.
RT Wiper Back
http://img810.imageshack.us/i/3rtwiperback.jpg/
Here you should have 2 wires that should go to the back of the controller, the RT pot wiper, and the crazy solidering wire you just did at image 2.
Connect both these wires to the small chip.
RT High
http://img809.imageshack.us/i/4rthigh.jpg/
The RT High is just connected to that blob, its one of the easiest soldiering points to hit.
Thats it folks… you have fixed your torn off RT pot points.
Continuing with the mod provided by Upas, the controller should look like this when done:
Front:
http://img812.imageshack.us/i/imag0182.jpg/
Back:
http://img823.imageshack.us/i/imag0183.jpg/
Hope you guys manage to fix up your pads. Goodluck.
I know this is my first post and that I’m bumping an old thread, but I have a serious problem with the right trigger. I am going for a six button setup, so I neutralized the left trigger as instructed. Unfortunately, I tried to re-design the schematic the OP provided to accommodate only one trigger. When I press the trigger in this mode, nothing happens.
Another thing to add: when I am testing the controller through windows, the Z-Axis begins at minimum value. A few seconds later, without pressing anything, it returns to neutral and stays there.
Edit: I realized where I may have gone wrong. For one, I used 12kohm resisters instead of 5-10. They were all I had so I used two of those for each trigger. Also, I did not ground the unused odd numbered pins on my 7404. I will try this tomorrow and post to see if that makes a difference.
I replaced all of my 12kohm resistors with 8…2kohm resistors (out of 10ks) and I grounded every unused odd number pin. I am still getting no response when I press the button. However, in windows, I am getting a maximum value for the z-axis at all times.
I know I keep bumping this thread, but alot has changed with my progress.
I decided to ignore the inverter and use the Normally Closed port on my microswitch. I included a picture to show what I have done.
The button works on push. However, on release, it sets the left thumbstick to down and left. I then push the button again and it works, and while I hold it down the left stick is in neutral (they way it should be). I have no idea why the trigger is interfering with the left stick.
Edit: I decided to use the NPN transistor method instead and it has worked perfectly.
uhm is there no instructions on the 6th part still or did i pass over it.
