How to : Add Custom Art to your TE fightstick and swap simple options

Tech Talk
1

nominate as an article if this helped you!
Seems pretty self explanatory, but I saw people keep asking for help over the past couple days, so I decided to make this simple faq. Mods please take down if this is a redundant post.
First off, this post assumes you’ve been able to get past the initial process of making your own artwork and getting some protection on it, whether it be lamilabel or a pre-cut plexi cover.
Please go to TE template thread
if you have not completed this step yet to get the templates and ideas.
User d3v has created a comprehensive starter guide on how to set up a basic template here
For superior plexi products and art orders, head over to Art’s Hobbies
OR Art’s SRK thread for info first.

Tools needed :
Flathead x2 (large and smaller tip)
Allen key (says size 3 on the one I used)

(Please ignore my custom art top and bezel for now)
Step 1:
Remove the six allen screws which hold in the metal plate to the base.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick1.jpg

Step 2:
Separate the metal plate from the base by holding onto the joystick, while holding this, you can also remove your red bezel at this time so it doesn’t get scratched up when u stand up the plate for button and joystick wiring removal.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick2.jpg

if you’re planning on painting/dyeing your bezel, now would be the time to do it. I used Krylon Fusion Black with several coats of clear for protection

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick3.jpg

Step 3:
Get your larger flathead underneath the joystick mounting plate and you will see the position for it. This will stop the joystick top from spinning freely and you can unscrew it.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick4.jpg

This is the parts you should have so far. The joystick top/ball can be replaced with Sanwa/Seimitsu LB-35, Sanwa LB-30N, and Seimitsu LB-39 among other compatible ones for your choice in color and style.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick5.jpg

Step 4:
Quick Disconnect removal.
Each button is connected to 2x quick disconnects. You’re going to want to pull back the sleeve on each of the QD’s, then insert your smaller flat head near the top and do a couple small prys, nothing to forceful. It should push out the QD off the buttons enough that you can pull them off without yanking or any excessive force. DO NOT TUG ON THE QD’s BY THE WIRE.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick6.jpg

The joystick itself has a plug on it you can similarly slowly push out using ur smaller flat head. This step is optional as its not necessary for the whole metal plate to be out to apply or take off your old artwork, but it does make it easier.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick7.jpg

Step 5:
Button removal.
This is a real bitch the first time, they’re in there pretty good. Just slowly work each side of the button, you will see the clips that lock them into place into the metal plate. Trying getting one side and then pushing on the other or rotating the button, eventually you’ll get them all to pop out. If you didn’t know already, these buttons are Sanwa OBSF snap in 30mm’s and can be replaced with any color variant of so and the seimitsu snap-in equivalents.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick10.jpg

Step 6: So after this your metal plate will be free like so

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick8.jpg

Peeling the stock artwork is actually quite easy, it’s held in by some kind of very weak sticky adhesive and comes off whole without tearing.

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/TEstick9.jpg

Rewind the process after you get your new artwork on, (I recommend using 3m adhesive spray or similar if you’re just using laminated/lamilabeled art work)
so
-snap in buttons
-hook up QDs to buttons
-hook up plug to Joystick
-place joystick hardware and screw in top
-slide in bezel
-slide metal top in on top of bezel
-screw x6 in
-Success

If you’re using plexi+art
Your final product should look like this before putting the bezel back in and screwing down everything.
Metal TE plate -> artwork -> arthong plexi -> buttons
Make sure to shave off/grind down the miniature grooves/nubs on snap in buttons as they can crack your plexi when putting them in.

This is my finished one for now.

PS. In case you didn’t make note of the button colors for each set of wiring , here it is :

http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10489/button-colors.jpg

2

No problem. now get to it :rofl:

3

You, my new friend, are amazing.

4

nice, just curious what kinda top you getting from where?

5

Nah, I just copied the various designs from a lot of the howto’s, all i did was take pics haha.

I’m getting a couple Seimitsu LB-39 Bubble/clear tops actually.
I got them from http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=184056
infamouskid on here, I think he will be having another group buy shortly? He emails responses pretty quick.

6

Hrm so you used spray paint for your bezel? I’d like to dye or paint my bezel green at some point but haven’t a clue on how to approach it.

7

I noticed your plate looked really smudged. I am having issues with it scratching even though I am very delicate with it. Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

8

it’s pretty simple.
Grab some acetone or something with acetone in it, like nail polish remover and hit ur bezel with that. Wipe it down with a clean paper towel. This is to get rid of any dirt or contaminants.
You’re going to want Krylon Fusion brand for paint, easily obtainable at WalMart, as this is specifically for applying to plastics and has a built in sealer.
Layout newspaper or whatever u want in a place outside with little wind and lots of heat or sun. (if doing indoors in a garage, a hairdryer or something similar is recommend to speed up between coats and final drying)
Spray very LIGHT coats. Don’t worry about still seeing red after your first couple coats, it will cover up by the time you do 6-7 full passes. Also do continuous spray, dont do spurts as this will lead to to wet random spots and uneven sprays.
You basically want to do left to right -
—>
<–
—>
etc till u get from top to bottom.
On a good spring/summer day and light enough coats you can wait 1-2minutes between each coat before hitting it again. Repeat the process with clear coat.
move it inside away from wind and bugs, let it sit for at least 1/2 the day, 1 whole day in a warm place if possible. After that it should be good to go.

9

Awesome Thank you!

10

are you referring to smudges on the artwork?

and once again np. :rofl:

11

Does anyone happen to know how easily lamilabels come up once applied?

12

Are you worried about it coming up accidentally or trying to change it later on?

13

@ protomanSTi: perhaps changing later.

I unscrewed the six screws on my stick and while five of them tighten down very nicely one seems to have been help in place mostly with that red glue MadCatz spattered over every screw. It slides in, spins a little, and doesn’t come out, but it does not tighten like the other five. Anyone else experience this?

14

Does the art have to stick to the silver plate? or can you just screw it on top of it :S

15

wow i really needed this! thanks!

16

Thanks for the tutorial.

17

Yep. Most likely the glue seal has been broken and the nut fell loose/is loose.
I opened it from the back, spread apart the entire front, scraped off all the red glue, and re-did all 6 nuts with hotglue that extends so it actually has strength.

It may flap up if you just screw it, and dust could get in through gaps to the holes. It’s up to you, but I would use spray adhesive on it.

np, happy modding everyone

18

ahh awesome! I think I’ll go with your method and stick it on xD Lamilabel works too right?

19

Thanks alot for this, I wanna wait for my warranty to be up before I mod my TE though. I just recently bought it(about 4-5 days ago.)

20

What is the print size for art on the TE?

When I go to Kinkos online to print it wants a custom size for print out…
THanks