Hello people!
Can someone tell me how much input lag has the Madcatz Soul Edition Stick for PS3? I can’t find anything specific about this matter on this stick over the internet…
Another doubt I have is about the first PS360, I don’t know the input lag of this PCB too, in any system…
Thanks for the help!
I find it funny that more people are worried about small differences in lag between the sticks and not the reliability between the sticks. I know the focus of this thread is about the lag tests, but some people here are taking it too far. Just like to remind the people who are taking these results to the extreme that they need to weigh the other benefits of the stick and pcb when they make their purchases.
Barely anyone cares about the usb quality and of its connection. Doesn’t do you much good if your pcb has the fastest times if your pcb is prone to disconnects or other issues. For example the Paewang is ranked rather high in both ps3 and 360. However I’ve seen and heard plenty of people have issues with the pcb. Like it getting stuck in one system mode, dead inputs that are always held down, and wear n tear of the usb cable.
Timing may make you lose a counter hit, but a disconnect will make you lose a round.
True, it wouldn’t hurt to asterisk the boards that are less reliable. The latest PS360+ has the lowest latency on PS4, but you can’t stay connected longer than 8 minutes, so it’s pretty useless. Hopefully nobody runs out and buys one based on the ranking.
Nobody should be using this list as a “best PCB” list. If you don’t know how to interpret the data and the features and flaws of each board, you shouldn’t be basing your decision on this info.
Yeah, there’s a lot of lack of moderation on both ends - some folks think really minute stuff matters for performance - it really doesn’t, excepting perhaps stuff like 3S/Yata and stuff like KOF13 Ryo. The main difference is in playfeel, and even the lag difference I experienced was a whole frame, pretty much, and that was still just a playfeel thing.
The other side is worse, though - actively trying to shut off information dissemination and clearly not understanding why the method is valid and works.
My take:
I want to eliminate input lag as much as I feasibly can in my own equipment. Tests like this help quite a bit in helping determine where the lag in any given setup is coming from.
My monitor lags by 10ms in game mode, a little over half a frame. My goal is to keep all of my sticks below the 16ms range if possible, that way I can stay under 2F of lag.
As someone who’s lived in Japan for over two years and has spent a lot of time arcade hopping, I say with confidence that the majority of arcade operators don’t have the best equipment in their cabinets. Not to say that they don’t care, because they do (I haven’t seen a single Viewlix F since I’ve been here), but they’re stuck between a rock and a hard place. CRT’s are not holding up well anymore and nearly all cabinets being produced now use LCD’s. Some of them are good in terms of response but others are kind of ass. Owners have to look at it from a cost:benefit perspective (as they always do) and make the best of it.
Thankfully, things have improved in the past few years and most of the cabs being made today are pretty good, to the point where people are comfortable playing games like +R, 3S, etc. on them. A lot of arcades have also retrofit modern, low lag displays into older LCD cabinets like the Lindbergh.
Being an end-user, I can afford to be more discerning with my own setups, so I am. When I’m at the arcade, I have no choice. Be it lag, bad sticks, loose buttons, whatever, I have to live with it. At home though, you’d best believe I’m going for the best experience possible. So thank you, @Teyah, for all that you’ve done. You’re welcome for the FC4 
Small correction, given that the data isn’t absolute but relative to fastest available.
That is an important distinction to make, and I think that is what makes this data so valuable. Sure, you may not be able to feel 1F of lag, but 1F extra on top of whatever display lag or input processing lag there may be could be a dealbreaker. How much a few frames of lag affects play is heavily dependent on the game in question.
Alright everyone. I recently bought a Hori RAP 4 Kai and opened it up for you guys. It states on the PCB that it is the 1825-31 Main PCB (RAP4). Hopefully this means it’s using the RAP 4 PCB that’s not as laggy?
After hunting down and taking pictures of PCBs for the last few days, I can confirm that the HRAP4 Kai shares the same PCB with the HRAP V / Silent / Doa5LR sticks. I’ve updated results on my site to reflect this. Unfortunately it’s the laggiest one on both PS4 and PS3 (unless used in PS4 mode).
I clicked Like. I didn’t want to 
Why couldn’t the cheap Hori stick be fast.
Thanks for the post. If anyone has any insight into this I’d love to hear it. I recently bought one these, and I can kinda feel the lag, but with a lag as small as 1 frame, it can definitely be in my head. Like if something as bad as 4 frames, I can notice immediately, but 1 frame lag is very hard to physically detect for sure.
Edit: Nevermind, just noticed that Teyah got back with you.
May I ask if you will test the venom arcade stick any time soon?
Thanks once more, I appreciate the support and the FC4 too of course!
I also wanted to offer my thoughts on this a bit. At home we can all choose our own equipment, but when we get together and play this isnt always the case. For example I care about minimising input delay, so I play at home on HDCRT and a low lag stick. I am glad that I have the CRT option for online play though, as that can reduce overall delay by about one “bar” (orange bar feels like LCD yellow, yellow bar feels like LCD green bar, etc). But when I meet up for games, we’re on LCD so I make sure to turn up the input lag option in training mode so I’m used to the timing.
Now some (most?) people downplaying the effect of lag probably don’t play in tournaments or at a competitive level, so I can kind of understand that this all seems very silly to them. But to serious players it does matter. Daigo has even said in interviews that he has a CRT setup that he uses for online play, but he practises offline on a LCD (~22 ms delay over a CRT from my measurements).
Tldr; if you care about input lag, this info I’m compiling should prove useful. If you don’t, then you can ignore it and be just as happy on your current setup. Just understand that there are people out there who take these games seriously that do find this information helpful.
Just want to point out clicking “Flag” is for people who spam, not for people you disagree with.
As tough as it is to read Darksakul’s posts (grammatically, even), he’s not a spammer, he’s just outspoken.
So is the best choice at this point the Madcatz TE2 or Hori v4? You guys think there will be cheaper/faster fightsticks coming for SFV?
Yep those are the 2 most popular PS4 sticks at the moment.
A few people in my scene (myself included) have shown interest in this stick, so there is a very good chance this will be tested in the next few months.
Not the same stick base. Not the same PCB.
Please keep details of Teyah’s irrelevant lag information in his irrelevant thread here:
For more detailed information on the differences between the RAP V4 Hayabusa and the RAP 4 Kai, go here:
In the future, please avoid making new threads with questions that have existing threads, or ask in the “Asolute Question and Answer Thread v3” sticky here:
May we get a lock now please @d3v 
I suppose my information is irrelevant to people who don’t play fighting games competitively, but there isn’t much I can do about that.
They are different PCBs, here is a picture of each:
HRAP v4 PCB
HRAP4 Kai PCB
Guess my informative post that had a bit of opinion involved got someone a bit butthurt and firing assumption shots. Not sure who told you I don’t play competitively, but that person would be incorrect.
Nonetheless, glad you could repeat information I already said to bump the topic.