I am pad Hacking the above pad into one of my modular project boxes.
I want to have my arcade stick match the Hori EX2 Layout, and was wonder what I would need to do to get the LT and RT triggers to be set off as a digital.
In my current setup I have RT set to Roundhouse in SSF2THDR
When I run a test on the bare pcb board and touch the ground to the RT point with a loose wire, a Roundhouse should come out but instead I get a ducking forward. Is there some way I could use some resistors or something to get these analogs to work properly with a swtich?
I know that I can more easily wire the LB and RB, but that is not what I want.
Have you tried searching this forum? It’s documented in many places.
If that fails for you, read through the pad hacking thread on how to wire up the L& R triggers. You need a couple of resistors (I used 10K) and then they’ll function as digital inputs.
I have been searching through but am not sure where to hook up the resistors and then where to connect my signal and ground. I am looking for either a picture or diagram. Well thanks for narrowing down my search.
Okay I found this image in the padhacking thread. I think it might be useful to have focused threads for specific pads, since the pad hacking thread is about 90 pages long.
This picture shows the Left Trigger hooked up to a 10k ohm resistor, (wire with beige bean thing)
then going to a diode, (black cylinder), to the signal of the Left Trigger, hooked up to the button.
Toodles in that forum listed this diode in the Radio Shack Catalog
Ten pack diodes $1.50 Catalog #: 276-1122
While Purrin linked to this assorted Diode pack used in his picture. Now not sure what diode to use and what the diode is for.
anyways, that kind of one problem with the padhacking thread. First post isn’t updated to show where to solder on each pad (But its a good thing slagcoin has all of this on his site).
as for that pic. I’m not sure what the guy is trying to do
Actually I don’t think that page explains how to wire triggers that require a diode. Either way, thanks for digging up that picture, I’ll need it pretty soon here.
My problem is that I got the left trigger hooked up with the resistor okay, but now my right trigger does a ducking forward kick. I am trying out all the possible combinations of hooking up the Right trigger, but not sure what two contacts need the 10k resistor on them. There are 3 solder points and the middle one is supposed to be the signal. Not sure where to put the other end, I tried both and am still getting the ducking forward kick.
Once I get it working I will post pics of what the final solder points look like. That is the picture I have been looking for but have not dug it up yet.
I found the diagram that I was looking for. I realized that I had to remove the trigger button assemblies because the trigger “potential meters?” (not sure) Where interfering with the signal. Now I need to test if all the kicks can be pressed at the same time. (I use SS2THDR Zangief’s fast lariat with 3 kicks still. Not used to the Jab+Short yet) I think it is important that the resistor is oriented right. Still not sure but it seems to be working for me.
I think the Diode was to get the pad working with PC. Something about pressing both at the same time cancelling each other out on the Z-axis.
All you need is 10k Resistors hooked up like you see in the diagram you just posted.
The diode was to get it working with a PSX PCB for a dual PCB mod. If you’re not doing a Dual PCB mod, you can just add the 10k resistors and be on your merry way. Do this without the Diode and it should work fine. Be sure to Remove These though since you’re adding the resistors.
Hope that helps
EDIT: If you plan on using your stick on a PC, I highly recommend not using LT and RT as part of your six face buttons. Or else they’ll cancel one another out when press simultaneously.
Okay thanks Purrin. I just removed those analog trigger thingys (potentiometers?). I was kind of scared that I might break something, but since it wasn’t working I just went for it. Now I am setting up hooking it to a D-SUB 25 connector. I am actually using project boxes because I mod my stick for use with mulitple systems, but it is good to know that diodes create a switch that is one direction. If I ever make a multiple PCB stick I might try it out, but I like project boxes.
Yeah, Happ I know. Please forgive me for my sins, my stick parts are really, really old. (I bought them 8 years ago when hardly anybody knew how to get sanwa/seimitsu parts let alone that they existed.) If you are wondering why I have seperated grounds, I think that the Original xbox had non-common grounds, and made it possible to hook one up If I decided to pad hack that.
Thanks for the vid. Exactly what part of the old black switch did you heat up to pull it off. I haven’t looked at the PCB yet (just got it yesterday), so I don’t know if there are solder points or adhesive spots or whatever holding it on.
I pulled off the square plastic things with the circle in it with some long nose pliers. I just bent them off and cut them with a wire cutter. You can solder them off too, but I wanted to use the solder that was already nicely there for my resistors so that is why i opted to cut them off…
I have a question. the A button on the pcb is acting as a normally closed switch. it seems to happen when any button is pressed. So for instance, i’ll plug in the stick, everything is off, and when i press a button the A is activated and stays that way. at first i thought it was the relay i was using, but i swapped it out and it still stayed on. any suggestions?
I managed to get the trigger mod to work using only the 10k resistor … but after an hour or so of playing the trigger buttons stop working. But if i unplug from the usb port and then reconnect it works again, but fails again in about 10 mins.
I was wondering which kind of resistors to use on the madcatz arcade stick triggers? I believe there are 1/4W or 1/2W types so any advice on this would be great.
