How do I mod this hori real arcade pro 3?

Tech Talk
1

So yeah I finally decided to mod my little baby…looked easy enough in all these tutorials around the net…
It’s just…What is this?

I can’t freaking pull it out!
In fact…how do I pull it out? it’s so different from the other hori real arcade pro 3 that I saw from the tutorials and guides!

2

haha you have to de-solder the buttons… not too bad after you do one…

3

What kind of HRAP3 is that? That’s looks more like an T5 PCB lol.

4

BlazBlue HRAP.

How I know?
Because of the PCB.
Because of the Button Color.
Because of the Button Layout.
Because of the Mounting Bracket.

All those make for the BlazBlue HRAP.
Calamity Trigger of course, not the Continuum Shift which is HRAP V3 SA.

5

Those big PCB’s are far easier to desolder/solder than the smaller ones.

They’re probably the best PCB’s to learn how to solder on…

I don’t miss working with those PCB’s anymore, though! They’re so friggin’ huge…

6

ok, thanks to a few replies, a bit of logic and google search, I just found the right solution.
Bought the right tools aaaand gona start everything soon.

7

Ahhh brings back memories of my own stick(Arcana Heart 2 PS2) when i first opened it. First off, desoldering the buttons is pretty easy. All you need is an soldering iron to heat the solder points back into molten form, and one of those solder-sucker tools to remove it.

I’ve heard of some turning it upside down and have the melted solder “fall off” but that NEVER worked. The sucking tool is a must have:
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Solder-Sucker/dp/B0002KRAAG

And if its anything like Hori’s similar models, you will need to grind off the tabs before putting in new buttons. Thats pretty easy though, just buy a cheap rat tail file from a hardware store or something(don’t think they’d sell that at a wal-mart), and grind them down. I used a dremal to grind off mine though, because i didn’t know about the filing method.

Then buying new wire with appropriately fitting quick-disconnects, cutting & crimping them on.

Lastly, resoldering wire to the points on the PCB which is also pretty simple. Don’t let the hype around soldering fool ya, its not that hard. I was a total newbie prior to that, yet i was able to creativitly half-ass some solid connections. Which have held up nicely these past two years even after several big stick upgrades.

I can give ya pointers on that stuff if ya like.

8

I use one of these $7* nibblers for those HORI tabs: http://www.harborfreight.com/nibbling-cutter-97636.html

You can snip off all the tabs on a Hori stick in like 5 minutes with one of these. No need to file.

*Cheaper with a Harbor Freight coupon, which are plentiful.

9

Sounds good to me.
Thank you sir!
Maybe it’ll sound very noobish…which I actually am in this regard, but is it really possible to enlarge the hole with a rattail file? I mean, it’s metal.

I never saw this kind of tool, so I can hope that it doesn’t damage anything?

10

You just put the tab in the indentation of the blade and squeeze hard. See here: Hori T5: Modding Tutorial
Different brand, same tool overall.

11

No tabs on the Blazblue HRAP3 button holes. :slight_smile:

Swap with your favorite buttons with no worries.

12

Bit of trivia technically, HORI doesn’t consider this (and most other licensed sticks in HRAP3 bodies as HRAPs). The only one they do consider a proper HRAP is the T6 one, and that one has QDs instead of that awful PCB.

13

Yes, the HRAP Tekken 6 is the only Game Licensed HRAP with HRAP in the name.
The other Game Licensed ones just have HRAP in the description.
But even then, not all have HRAP in description. :sad: