Hori VX and V3 problems

My hori vx has been working perfect for 7 months in stock form, but finally it has a problem. The heavy punch and light punch buttons work about 25% of the time. they are not loose and have been mashed on a bit (stupid marvel supers). i opened the joysticks but i dont know what the problem is. Im thinking regardless of what it is, it is time to change the stock buttons. Help would be appreciated.

go for it?

I don’t see why you should be surprised that the Hori buttons wore out.

Most of the people who started playing with the lower grade sticks and upgraded to the pro-level joysticks (Mad Catz TE’s, HRAP’s) would have told you to expect the Hori buttons to wear out quickly. They don’t generally last over a year tops with constant use.

They’re just not made to last any appreciable length of time and wear out more quickly than Seimitsu or Sanwa buttons.
They’re cheaply made buttons.
You get what you pay for, basically.

Seems like the whole idea behind the Hori VX/V3 joysticks is to eventually force players to transition to the HRAP joysticks. The V3/VX along with the older-style Hori FightSticks were never made to be upgraded with arcade parts. That’s where Mad Catz beat Hori with the SE-level joysticks.

The only Hori stock buttons that many people think were worth a darn were the ones produced for the old Namco Joystick.
For whatever reasons, they hold up better than anything Hori’s produced since.
The issue with Hori parts is why some of us – myself included – are cautious about the new Hori Fighting Edge joystick coming out in May. That’s supposed to use newly designed, theoretically arcade-quality Hori parts – buttons and joystick lever.

The new-style Hori buttons were originally supposed to debut on the Hori Soul Calibur V joystick but were pushed back or delayed for either A) player outcry – most of us DO NOT like the idea of Hori stock buttons instead of Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons based on past experience; and B) the buttons just weren’t far enough along and at a state where they were ready for production… sort of like what’s been going on with the PS360+ for a half-year or more now…

@CCWaff1es: The main question is: are you talking about the Hori RAP VX, or the Hori Fighting Stick VX? Two very different sticks.

VX not rap vx, i do know the difference

thanks. i did think the stick must have been a little cheap since it was cheap. will a button mod fix the problem or should i go for a new stick.

Oh, don’t get me wrong. I didn’t imply that you didn’t know the difference; I was just stating that WE didn’t, because you didn’t specify.

So you have a Hori Fighting Stick VX (that’s the full name of the product, not just “Hori VX”).
I just got one a few weeks ago. The stock parts are pretty crappy. If you like the formfactor (as I do), you can go on and mod the stick with new parts. You’re basically looking at a whole new stick, and 6 buttons (approximately $20 + 6x$3 = $38), and it’s not the most straightforward thing to mod…

ya thats true and i wasnt implying that u were implying that i didnt know the difference. im just going to mod it because i do like its size and the format of the extra buttons (start,back,etc)

Good stuff. I really do like the function buttons in small up top as well.
If you need any info, there’s a whole thread based on this stick at http://www.shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/new-hori-fighting-stick-vx-360-v3-ps3-thread.80619/

Don’t feel bad… You didn’t know before you got into it.

I had a Wii Fight Stick for about 2 seconds and modded the thing… It’s basically the same level of modding and same part quality level to begin with.
I lost money getting rid of that joystick but somebody else got a much better joystick in return!

It’s just like a Tekken 5 stick – maybe a level 7 of 10 difficulty mod the first time you do it. It’s the desoldering of those stock Hori buttons from the PCB that gets people a lot of times when they haven’t done it in the past.

I honestly think my hardest mods have been with the Agetec. Those are always an 8 or 9 on my personal difficulty scale. The sheer amount of work in cutting that case to fit in arcade parts is tremendous. The joystick area – if you choose to install a Seimitsu joystick – is the hardest area to prepare and the one you have to be most precise with measurements. It’s not something I could do in a day because you have to take rests and pace yourself. Cases can and have been damaged by overheating the plastic… This also releases toxic gas when the plastic heats up and you need to do this mod in a well-ventilated/open area.

I honestly don’t recommend doing case mods unless you’re doing it for your own enjoyment or like a particular case style. This is why people go ga-ga with modding Namco Joysticks or Agetecs. They like the case style and nobody makes those joysticks anymore… .they’re also both becoming harder to find as time goes by. They’re neat, compact case styles that are easier to carry than an HRAP or TE.

You save a lot of money in the long run sticking to HRAP’s and TE’s. Heck, a used HRAP or TE isn’t that much more expensive than a FightStick/VX/V3 of Mad Catz SE. People have been lucky and bought gently-used HRAP’s and TE’s for $80 or less.

FS VX and V3 are easy to mod with JLF though, all need is to drill on the restrictor and use the existing screws coming with the hori stick. or even just buy 4 M4 screws and use the jlf with mountint plate and let the shaft scratches the bottom plastic cover a bit. button wise, just throw away the daughter board for buttons if you don’t want to keep it. holes are 30mm, no need to be enlarged. not as easy as just swaping in, but i would think it is 2 or 3 out of 10.