lol add a bat top and it’ll be just as tall as a happ stick.
I’m a noob so this really seemed quite a daunt task (all the drilling, sanding and stuff).
But I really wanted a wireless sanwa stick.
Is there a way to make the shaft standard height? Can I swap the hori shaft in place of the sanwa shaft like the previous reply said?
I don’t want to go through all these trouble and end up with something that is less than ideal, if you know if I meant…
Thanks for the great guide though
Anyone who lives near Berkeley CA who can mod this particular stick for me. It’s the Tekken 6 Hori stick. (I’ll pay you of course $$$) please pm with your name and phone number. I’d like new artwork and swap buttons and stick with sanwa parts. I’d like to surprise my friend for Christmas and I’d like someone who knows what they’re doing to perform this mod.
Thanks alot.
I tried this on the PS3 version of the T6 stick. I ended up drilling and widening the holes in the plastic base until it almost fell apart - but still it doesn’t fit. I noticed that the sockets seem to be slanted which makes the stick base impossible to fit. Can someone confirm this?
//edit
Judging by te pictures, the sockets are slanted exactly the same way. Will post a picture of my plastic base later so you can see the mess 
Next attempt:
- rip off artwork and re-print it
- mount the JLF to the top of the joystick, using the metal plate and screws
- but new artwork on top of the joystick
- finish off with thin plexi
is it possible to just throw a octagon restrictor plate on this? i don’t really wanna do anything else to mine.
If u plan to modd to jlf base yes if not. Sorry u cant. Hori base is different and doesnt fit the octo-gate
Anyone try with a LS-32 yet?
Yes you can use.
Do not need JLF Base like meus said.
Do this.
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149488
http://www.canonspike.com/Canon_Spike!/Joystick_Mods/Entries/2009/3/24_Hori_EX2_Cherry_Switches_%2B_Octogate_quick_mod.html
http://pineconeattack.com/2008/12/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-fighting-stick-ex2-with-authentic-arcade-parts-xbox-360-version/
awesome, thanks!
Considering that the LS-32 is taller than a JLF, it would seem unlikely that it would fit, unless you drill a hole in the bottom of the case. You already have to grind away a significant amount of material to get a JLF to barely fit.
Seimitsu LS-32(-01) is actually just shorter than Sanwa JLF overall by 0.5mm length.
Top half of Seimitsu LS-32(-01) is shorter than Sanwa JLF by 4.5mm length.
Which is why need the SS Mounting Plate (+5mm) to get proper Shaft Height.
Now the bottom half of Seimitsu LS-32(-01) is longer than Sanwa JLF by 4mm length.
So yes, if JLF barely fits now, then LS-32(-01) will have trouble.
Huh. I guess I must have accidentally added a millimeter last time I measured a LS-32. :wonder:
Anyway, I’ve always found it easier to re-use the Hori joystick base, and just replace the micro switches and the spring to get something close to a JLF or LS-32. If you’re really picky and prefer the authentic joysticks, you shouldn’t be using the Hori T6.
sorry for bumping this but there’s a huge sale going on with the T6 bundle (the one with the arcade stick), I already own a HRAP but was considering a wireless stick for 2nd player/comfy shmuping on the couch ^^
I saw holes at the bottom of sticks before to make joysticks fit, would that work here ? I really want to fit a seimitsu stick in there… any piece of advice ?
Sorry for the rather large bump but I thought it was better than starting a new topic on this.
I was just wondering how beginner friendly this mod was as the stock stick on this thing really really grates on me I just find it hard work to deal with personally so was looking to stick a Sanwa stick or other better stick in there.
However I’ve never modded a stick before so was wondering if this is a bad place to start.
Thanks,
mc6415
I have the hori ex2 and i think the stick is actually pretty good, alot of other people agree with me too. and so instead of going through all the trouble to fit a JLF in there, they simply change the microswitches and/or gate.
The buttons on it are terrible but they stick is fine. Keep practicing I guess?
I’ve never modded anything before but it might be a little tricky in my opinion, it certainly seems scary for me…
Anybody have an answer to that question? Is it possible to add spacers to the base of the screws to give it some more height?
I just took out the stock square gate and used a dremmel to turn the square into a perfect circle. I used a watch battery as a temple for the circle…it was just big enough.
I just got one of these for $30 (my first stick ever). I’m having fun with it, but soon the modding begins. Of course, the buttons must go, and I want an octo-gate. I have seen some who say the hori stick isn’t that bad, but I figure if I’m messing with the stick at all, I want to go for the full Sanwa rig. Maybe I’ll switch the gate first, play a while and then do the full stick, just so I know exactly what the extra money got me (not that it will make much difference at my level of stick play).
One issue I’m kind of wrestling with is whether to use the hori shaft or the JLF’s. I don’t know enough about how the height difference will affect the feel of the stick. I see some saying just to use the hori shaft. This is mostly in guides to modding the EX2, but I guess for this particular issue there is no difference. It seems that this will change the way the stick feels, but I know that is a matter of personal preference. I may or may not prefer the longer throw that comes with the longer shaft. I just don’t have the frame of reference.
I had the idea today that maybe you could kill two birds with one stone. If I cut out a piece of quarter-inch plexi roughly in line with the existing art (may change to suit needs), rout the edges round, cut button and stick holes, and counter sink 4-6 screws to line up with existing holes for metal plate, screw down with art of choice underneath. In addition to letting me change the art easily, it seems like this would bring the surface a lot closer the the height needed for the sanwa shaft to have the typical/recommended height. Let me know if I’m thinking about this all wrong. I realized later that this would be a lot of work for nothing if I got into it and found that I preferred the feel of the standard JLF install with hori shaft, so I’m kinda up in the air on this.
Of course, all this is getting pretty far ahead of myself since I don’t even have a tri-wing to open the thing yet. That’s a good thing, though because the “slow boat from China” shipping from dealextreme will give me time to think this through and research before I go nuts with a soldering iron and drill bit and ruin the whole thing. Sure do wish those buttons were better though…
Sorry for the long post.
nice threadd,
I got one of these, and i love it. I’m gonna make it a little heavier, but other other than that, it’s wireless, portable, and just super legit. I got full Seimitsu buttons, even replaced the stock start/select yellow buttons. Just now ordered a JLF, with the help of this thread, so thanks for all the input! And was there any way to leave out the additional 10mm of height? Don’t know if I’d like it or not.
xkn: I’m planning to do something like that with mine, but when I have money for the buttons, I see a game I just have to have.
I wanted to put a JLF in, but I’ve backed off that. I heat-shrinked the actuator and did the postit mod on the switches (they open like JLF). Yesterday I took put a second layer of heat-shrink on and removed the post-its, and now I think it’s pretty well dialed-in. Good ratio of dead-space and throw. Heat-shrink is 12mm from Homedepot ($2). It takes some stretching, but a closed pair of scissors was perfect for that. I may do octagate later, but I’m having fun learning the square now.
What material did you use for the art and how did you go about cutting it? Did you remove the original sticker? As far as the 10mm height on the JLF, I thought about thick plexi on top to fix that, but I’ve realized since that there’s no way I could get that done right.
Haven’t thought about the weight in a while. I put some foam shelf liner under when on the table and now it’s like it’s glued down.