I THINK I got through one. I dont see the dimple like you had but again, that could be the weakness of the drill. It feels and sound different when I drill there. I am somewhat sure I got through one of them. But it took a while.
Ok, my brother-in-law has a 19.2 power drill. He actually has two of them. A little overkill? Maybe. But I want this thing off already. I will go to use it after work today. I will give updates. My quick disconnects should get to me today and I will officially have all the parts and all that will be left is to do the labor.
Cool thanks AJ. The size is 1 1/8?
Real- You get the bracket off?
Jumai- that size sounds about right.
can i add a happ stick to this?
somewhere on the first 8 pages i believe a member named Scoops put an IL comp stick in his T5. You should go try and see what details he gives. I know he had to remove the mounting plate like i did for for the ls32.
I’m afraid to mess up my t5 stick. Is it worth messing up? It was given to me for free and I would hate to mess this bad boy up.
Honestly, if your just doing a JLF and button swap, its kinda hard to mess it up.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/1303/att00001e.jpg
Ok, I didn’t install the LS-32-01. When I thought about it, I only jumped when I had the Sanwa installed in the Mad Catz SE stick. I have Sanwa’s in other sticks and never had a problem. So I am going to try it in this stick and see how it does. If it doesn’t work out, I will change it. I now have the equipment to do so curious of a 19.2 electric power drill so if I want to get that mounting bracket off, I will get it off.
I just ordered my plexi so I am waiting for that. I drilled one hole for the guide button already, but I will hold off drilling the other 2 holes on the side for Start and Select/Back until I get the plexi. Those 24 mm black buttons will be white then I put them on the side. The color scheme will look good when I remove the stock artwork which I will also do when the plexi comes in. It works but I must admit, the wiring is hella messy but I guess that should be expected since this is my first mod. Everything went pretty smoothly. As you can tell I didn’t have to come back here and ask questions while I did it. Thanks again for all the help. Not the easiest mod in the world, but definitely doable. I had no wiring, drilling or soldering experience before this and I was able to do it. On a scale of 1 to 10, I’ll give this project a difficultly of 6 for beginners.
I am actually going to switch to the LS-32-01 regardless. I want the experience of actually doing it. I need to use the stick right now though so I will wait until my plexi comes in since I will have to reopen the stick at that point to put it on. I can kill two birds with one stone. Just having the piece of mind that I have the stick I want installed will make me feel better too. Can’t wait. I will post the completed stick when I am finished artwork and all.
Nice mod, did you use vinyle dye for the case? If your gonna use a plexi with the ls32 there is one more step youll have to do. Youll need to counter sink the holes so you can get flat head screws to sit flush with the control panel. That way the plexi will fit correctly. Or you can drill holes in the plexi, but thats pretty risk since you can cause a crack/break in the plexi.
I’m modding one of these with an MC Cthulhu, and my parts have just shipped, so I want to pick up everything else I need so that when I get them and can get the mod done as quick as possible. I just wanted to know what the options are for cables/ports for an MC Cthulhu. I’m going to be playing PS2/3 and Wii (well, just Tatsunoko Vs. Capcom).
Should I just have all three wires come out the usual space for the PS2 wire or have ports? I’m pretty sure I know everything else I need to do to install the rest of the stuff this is the only thing I’m unsure of, what have you guys done?
Please explain. Counter sink holes? If I can avoid drilling holes in the plexi, that will be ideal.
Yes, I used vinyl dye. When I get the plexi, I will change the artwork. It will look awesome.
I dislocated my index finger so its hard to type.
you basically make the top part of the holes your using to secure the ls32 abit wider so a flat head screw will sit flush with the metal panel allowing the plexi to sit properly. Just use a bit that alittle wider that the the head of the screw. Do you get what im saying? Sorry i cant type alot right now.
Yes, I understand now. I just did not know that was called counter sinking. I am def switching to the LS-32-01. Matter of fact, I might not even wait for the plexi to get here. I am jumping far too often. I will probably go to home depot or Walmart today to look for screws. I will try to get flat head screws.
Just incase you didnt know, the flat head screws have a cone shaped head, similar to a golf tee. Also, youll save yourself alot of time if you do the lock washer mod to your stick so you wont have to keep opening it up from the bottom when you need to change or mod anything. we talk about it afew pages back
Guess who got that mounting bracket off of there T5 stick???!!!?!!? I used the S mounting plate as a guide and when I get home today, I will drill the holes. I found flat head screws that will fit and I will also be doing the lock washer mod when I get home too. I was going to use gorilla glue for that. Is that ok? Says it bonds plastics and metal. I just have to be careful. My glue gun won’t be able to make down there.
Nice, youll be happy with the ls32. Dont forget when counter sinking youll only go through about half the thickness of the plate with the bigger bit. Dont go too far in.
I recommend the hot glue. On the hard to reach spots i just angled my gun and let it drip/fall onto them. You can put alot, and it wont hurt anything.
Im really getting a LS56 next. They are so compact and feel good. Just did a mod for a customer.
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Agetec/DSC02204.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/Agetec/DSC02201.jpg
Hmmm… well I stensiled on the inside of the face plate. I will drill a small hole all the way through first so I can see where I need to drill on the top side. Then drill halfway with a larger bit Finally all the way through with a smaller bit. Sound good?
The hot glue I guess I could throw some in there then let it dry then drill or scrape off the excess. That should all work right?
Yeah, you first drill a hole that will fit the scews perfectly, then ffrom the top you drill the small hole makeing it bigger. Just dont drill too far or the screws wont support the ls32 tightly.
No need to even mess with the excess. Just leave it, one you do the lock nut mod, you will never have to look at that part of the case ever again.