Glad you were able to get a stick. Hope you get the money back without problem
Im pretty sure you can use the stock buttons for temporary use. They might be a loose fit, but they should still do the job. I personally like to use 30mm buttons on the case. Looks better to me.
I meant I got the stick from someone in the Tekken community which I should of done in the first place. I used paypal so if I do a charge back I’ll get my money back. Probably take a while though.
Three big ass 30mm buttons on that back side? That seems likes too much. I was gonna use two 24mm buttons for start and select on one side and another 24mm button on the other side for the xbox guide/home button or whatever its called. By the way, what drill size is 24mm and 30mm in inches? All the drill and dremel tools are in inches. Like 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch. Whats 24mm and 30mm in those sizes?
Oh, i see. I can wait to try my LS32’s on Tekken when it comes out. Its gonna feel so much better than those damn loose JLF’s.
sorry, i dont have my tools with me right now to check. But if you buy them from ace hardware., The package says the size in standard and metric
24mm = 15/16"
30mm = 1 3/16"
iirc
if AJ can confirm this for me
Yep, just got back in from getting all my tools out the car. You are correct aggrastat. You randomly poke your head in the forums I see. lol
Thanks a lot for all of your help. I still need the quick disconnects, a few buttons and that nibbler tool and I can get started on this project.
This is a bit off topic, but I’ve been looking for a T5 stick for the past week, I’ve been seeing them around $70, does the price seem about right? I remember seeing a post from someone saying you shouldn’t pay more than about $50 for them, but that was back in March.
Actually, this should fit right in with the topic, the first step in modding a T5 is actually buying a T5.
Yeah, some people are trying to sell them for $100. its really fuckin ridiculous how much these people want. And half the time the person selling them doesnt know anything about joysticks. So they dont understand that the stock parts are crap. The most i would pay is $60 for a new one shipped. Other than that you can get them for $40-$50 if you look hard enough. I got one of my T5’s for $25 locally. Another time i got a T5, 2 plexis, 4 brand new dark hai sanwas for $50 off Craigslist also. So there are deals out there, just gotta be ready to jump on them.
I paid $37 for mine. I hit up Tekken Zaibatsu. Go to the NAMF forum and find the state thread closest to you and ask around. Use ebay as a benchmark to show them how much its worth. They go on average for $40 on ebay.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll do that.
I still think the Tekken 5 sticks are the best ones for tearing down and building up to HRAP-level quality. The other sticks are either harder to mod either because of limited space – FS3 and earlier gen sticks like the Hori Fight Stick SS/PS – or the fact they’re such good quality sticks to begin with – why bother with perfection (ie, the SA/SE line sticks)?
It’s funny saying the T5 sticks are crap to begin yet still better than most alternatives… Darn it though if that’s not true in a twisted sense! You’re getting a big, solid base to work with that gives you plenty of room for your wiring and stick installation. On top of that there are more opportunities available with this stick for future mods like dual PCB, button replacement, stick swapping, and UPCB installations.
What more could you really ask for except for buttons that weren’t soldered into the stock PCB the first place?
Even the soldered buttons aren’t that big a deal because the PCB as is practically idiot-proof. It’s hard to destroy the darn thing! I had absolutely no soldering experience until April/May this year and now I’ve modded 7 sticks (five were T5’s, the others licensed sticks using an HRAP base) going on my eight one (a domestic Wii Fight Stick) now. I haven’t ruined a single one of those T5 PCBs yet. Ditto for the other Hori PCBs. They’re well engineered and have good contact points for soldering. They’re also hard to burn unless you try doing that deliberately.
This is a very good stick to learn modding on and one well worth keeping if you’re not in the market to sell because what you end up with will be much better than what you bought.
Otherwise, yes, don’t spend over $70 for the thing. Just not worth it. On the other hand, it’s $70 better spent than $70 on lightweights like the MadCatz SE, Hori FS3 line, or the import Wii Fight Stick. You’re starting out with a much better base to begin with and a lot more room for possibilities.
Is there some kind of universal mounting plate I can replace in this T5 or can I mod it so it can work with both Seimitsu and Sanwa sticks? Something like the one in the mad catz stick. Both Sanwa and Seimitsus work in there. I can just rip that one out of there but I rather not…
has anyone played on the metal panel with just some paint on it. is that cool or would i be best off getting plexi? because i was thinking about getting the aluminum powder coated and just playing on that.
Realyst-I know hbreakz has a universal mounting that they can put on the custom control panels. YOu could always ask for just the mounting plate. Be nice if you have access to a welder. For abit, i wanted the Uplate, and was thinking about ordering it, ripping my t5 mounting plate out and JB welding the Uplate.
Nismo, youll be fine if you paint it. I might get one of mine powder coated since my dad has a shop.
hbreakz does not do metal work anymore and people are complaining about the person who he was working with. I could probaly find a welder but it can’t be cheap getting work like that done…
I wonder if people would be interested in that?
it wont be much if your able to get your hands on a universal mounting plate. If hbreakz wont sell them, im pretty sure you can find one on here somewhere.
Here a pic of my newly seimitsu modded Krizalid stick. This is my first mod that I originally put all sanwa in. Its the stick that i used for the t5 tutorial. It now has an LS32, 6 PS-14-GNC buttons and 2 PS-14-DN buttons.
The bleach Stick also has the same setup except the buttons are PS-14-GN.
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/My%20Sticks/DSC02190.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/My%20Sticks/DSC02191.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/mountaindewfkr/My%20Sticks/DSC02192.jpg
As you can see, im not one of those people that are into alot of colors, i keep it basic, black and white. lol
I used lamilables for the artwork due to the fact that i dont like the height that art plexis add. It feels very uncomfortable on my wrists. Also, since i used lamilables i didnt countersink the LS32 mounting holes. Besides, the screws dont bother me at all.
ok let me ask as if I know what im talking about.
Which stick(s) would fit exactly into the mounting plate of the t5? I wanna make it so all I have to do is screw some screws right into the 4 holes on the mounting plate.
thanks!
Sanwa JLF-TP-8T will fit onto the mounting plate that’s on the T5 panel, though you have to drill some holes into the plastic gate, as detailed in the first post of this topic.
No, it will be Sanwa JLF-TP-8 (or JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8Y, JLF-TP-8Y-SK), not JLF-TP-8T or its other variations.
Why get a JLF-TP-8T when the JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate) going to get removed and not used?
^My bad, I forget what model no. has the mounting plate or not. I just re-typed what was listed in the first post. ^^;
But yeah, you can save a few bucks ordering one without the plate, though it’s super easy to remove.