So is gamingnow.net swamped with orders or is he just slow? I ordered Saturday and haven’t recieved my harness yet.
Anyways, I screwed up on my artwork. I went to Kinko’s to get it printed, and I lamilabeled it before cutting my artwork out so now the edges peel. I ended up taping all around it with some clear scotch tape.
LOL.
Ohwell, It’s good enough for me.
I think like $5 or something. not much
sorry to ask this again, but i couldn’t find the answer. Where is the 3.3v on the t5 pcb?
I would liek to know this as well, im planning on a dual mod.
me too. any of you guys have a mulimeter?
What do you guys usually do when modding the T5 stick into PS3/360 controller? I’m going to button plug the two left-most buttons. But my question is about the 24mm buttons, do you just use those slots? Do you hit them by accident? I think drilling 3 30mm button holes into the side would be a bit much… but one should OK.
I’ve been commissioned a Tekken 5 HRAP basic mod and since this is another stick that shares the same PCB as the Hori Tekken 5 I thought it wasn’t too inappropriate to post it here. Unlike a previous mod I did some time ago, this one shows a different (also more difficult and time consuming) approach: trimming down the PCB as much as possible and housing it in a small project box. The idea itself isn’t new but all the examples I remember seeing were a bit coarse in the wiring department, with wires simply routed out of the box through holes and therefore not disconnectable from the box. This is what I consider a more refined and professional approach that could also be adopted for other small (i.e. boxable) PCBs (e.g. UPCB, Cthulhu, etc.).
PCB trimmed down:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/690/59301653.th.jpg
Project box with hand-made cutouts for JST SM panel-mount connectors:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/1263/20882564.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/7238/31460095.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/1960/19935258.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9336/93496602.th.jpg
The project box lid is secured to the bottom of the stick with flush head self-clinching bolts. Cutouts for screws allow to unscrew the lid and open/remove the box easily:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2264/65725860.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2641/55178278.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8530/38468588.th.jpg
Connectors inserted in the cutouts (12-pin for the 6 action buttons, 5-pin for the stick harness, 4-pin for start and select, 7-pin for the cord):
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9093/92297705.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/7681/58784892.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/5698/62748725.th.jpg
PCB feet trimmed and glued inside the box:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8819/25269046.th.jpg
What’s what on the trimmed PCB (3.3V is the yellow pin, for those who asked):
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3871/86501795.th.jpg
The pitch on a standard ribbon cable (1.27mm) is too big to match the pitch of the traces (where soldering is done, after scraping off the solder mask) that go to the chip, so a ribbon cable with a finer pitch (0.8mm) had to be used:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/5825/78967079.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3269/50585456.th.jpg
Work on the box is completed:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/782/36322708.th.jpg
Six-button harness (each signal wire has its own ground wire so unsightly daisy-chaining of grounds need not be done):
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/629/36972260.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3689/31847796.th.jpg
Stick harness:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/6192/63345269.th.jpg
Harnesses plugged in and terminated with open-barrel quick disconnects insulated with vinyl sleeves:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3967/49971770.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/416/99569611.th.jpg
Cord plugged in (a disconnectable cord is highly recommended for any stick because if it gets damaged the modder can make a replacement without being sent the whole stick):
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/5203/27036909.th.jpg
The owner of the stick didn’t bother to get Sanwa 24mm buttons (for select and start) but I wanted to give him the possibility of doing so if he ever changes his mind later so I soldered a few male 0.110" disconnects I had lying around to the PCB terminals of the switches:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3391/19829901.th.jpg
I also made (hand-made, no laser/CNC/router here…) a 1mm thick polycarbonate panel to protect the artwork that will be added later by the owner himself so I put temporary white paper to cover the unsightly metal panel underneath. I think that 1mm is the ideal thickness, anything thicker would look a bit goofy. The last pic shows this pretty well:
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9713/31013813.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8316/67701195.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/9215/52601839.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2059/zzzw.th.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8584/zzzz.th.jpg
M K L you are a life saver, and might I ask. How did you cut the holes for the connectors on the project box?
Wow…thats…just…wow! NICE pcb work, impressive!..MKL
Did you paint that case white? What did you use, if I might ask.
Thanks.
First I draw the cutout outline on paper, then I stick the paper with double side self-adhesive tape to the box and go along the outline with a stanley knife so as to score the plastic underneath. I remove the paper, drill a hole within the scored outline and use a fretsaw tu cut off most of the plastic. Then I use precision files to complete the cutout. It’s a pretty long process, the key is scoring the cutout.
It’s not painted, it’s this stick:
does anyone have a dual pcb mod t5? any guilds around here?
Nice work MKL, really impressive. Thanks for letting us know where the 3.3 is.
Fresh-Now that i know where the 3.3 is, ill be doing acouple of dual mods
Can i see the guts because i want to try and do this on thursday.
Yes,
I’m also interested in doing a dual PCB mod (still keeping the HORI PCB but adding in another stock stick’s PCB) with the T5 stick. I’m getting a second T5 stick set just for this purpose. The first T5 mod will be a trial run to get used to soldering and will be PS2/PS3 only. If this dual-PCB mod works, I’ll have a stick compatible with four systems! ==> Those systems being Saturn and Dreamcast (through Total Converter 3), PS2 and PS3 (through PS2=>PS3 USB adaptor).
I’m looking at putting in the PCB board from an old Ascii Saturn fighting stick into the T5/HRAP 1 casing. The Ascii stick base doesn’t have the room for any kind of stick replacement and so much plastic shaving and modding for replacement buttons alone would be involved that it would most likely destroy the stick base.
(FYI, anybody wanting the ASCII base + original ASCII buttons & stick AFTER I get done with the mod I’ll put it up just for costs of shipping. The parts really won’t be any good to me with the PCB and cord removed and I’ll be okay just shipping the thing postal.)
I think my best bet is removing the PCB boards inside the stick base while keeping all the joystick wiring, keep the adaptor cord for the Saturn, relocate the parts to the T5 base interior, and solder the PCB board to the HORI board to the proper common button points if I’m not mistaken.
The ASCII Saturn stick actually has two PCB boards in it. There’s a smaller PCB board that’s just for the start button of the stick. Saturn/SEGA controllers in generally only have start buttons. Sega never produced a controller with SELECT buttons until they remanufactured Virtua sticks and Saturn pads for the PS2…
The weird thing about the ASCII and Hori Saturn sticks is that they rely on physical contact with the PCB boards to complete a circuit. The buttons actually aren’t wired or soldered to the PCB boards of these sticks in any physical way! I wonder how you go about figuring out WHERE to solder on these boards! I have read, though, that it is possible to put a Seimitsu stick in the Hori Saturn base along with Sanwa/Seimitsu pushbutttons…
This is my idea for a dual mod setup within the Tekken 5 Anniversary stick involving just an Xbox 360 PCB and Cthulhu PCB.
With the Cthulhu board, connect both Xbox 360 & PS3 5V voltage sources and grounds, respectively (just like method #2 here http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/blog.php?b=6985)
If I am not mistaken, the Cthulhu board is a substitute for a PS3 PCB, correct?
If this is the case, the 5V and ground on the Xbox 360 PCB can be connected to VCC and any ground on the Cthulhu board. Data lines from Cthulhu usb port connect to one side of DPDT switch.
The Xbox 360 inputs would “piggyback” off of the Cthulu board. (check method #3 in link above)
Solder the GRD, 5V, D+, and D- lines from output of DPDT switch to underside of Cthulu board on corresponding usb solder points.
I think this would work for PS3 and Xbox 360 connections with one USB cable. Also, a PS2 cable can be soldered in Cthulhu PCB making it compatible with three consoles.
If my thoughts are correct, this does away with the stock Hori PCB in T5 Anniversary stick.
Only an Xbox 360 PCB and Cthulhu PCB are required.
If anything I stated is incorrect, please correct me.
Got the dual pcb almost working, on the PS2 side left is right and right is left…lol but everything else is working. on the xbox 360 side b button not working im not sure why? maybe didnt solder b on the right point. after 5 hours i need a rest…lol
Be sure to post picture(s) or link to picture(s) of your progress.
i will tomorrow, i went back today fixed the problem and made everything look pretty, it look like mess couldnt close the lid. so i rewired,zip tied so looks nice.
Been trying the dual mod, it never seems to fit in the case, any tips on how to not have all the wires messy? thats prob causing the problem. Should the wires be perfectly cut or extra long for the job. Thanks
