uppers ?
This might be a really stupid question that’s already been answered in here, but is it possible to put custom art on this thing? And how would I go about doing it if it is? Just get a vinyl sticker of whatever it is I want? Or is the process way more involved than that?
Yes, it’s possible but you’d ruin the original vinyl or whatever cover is on there originally since you have to rip it off from what I remember reading. There’s one cool looking custom vinyl but for the 360 version (VX-SA) floating around this forum.
I think it’s NRX’s Sanwa vs Seimitsu HRAP VX, he’s also the one who created the HRAP V template as well. I’m sure there are many people who swapped their art on their HRAP V series sticks, I was one step away from actually sticking my own on top of my HRAPV3 until I had a change of mind and sold it for a VLX(which I recently applied a Vinyl graphic instead).
I was planning just clean off the surface of my HRAP then apply a graphic printed on a laminated label paper with the original graphic still on because I was worried about the gap between the plastic case and the metal plate. If you use a vinyl graphic then it should be fine if you peel off the original graphic.
I just said vinyl since it was the only thing that came to mind. What are the other options?
How do you change from Left Analog/Right Analog/Digital
I recently got the VX-SA & its a fantastic stick, but in every advertisement for this and its PS3 counterpart it says you can change from Left/Right Analog & Digital, though no documentation is to be found on how to achieve this…
I have been using it primarily for my MAME collection (yes, PCB originals owned!) and its working fantastic, but there are a few select games in windows that recognize it as the xbox360 control but the stick is only functional as a POV/Hat switch. This makes it unusable in games that are controlled with the left analog, a couple of which are platformers I would love to play with this stick.
Anyone with either the PS3 or 360 version of this stick know how to use it as such? Only instructions that came with mine are printed on the box and don’t even mention it!:wtf:
There is a switch to the right of the Select button.
Thats what you’re looking for.
I do not own this stick, but I am under the impression that the switch just right of the select button achieves this.
Are there any reputable online merchants still selling the Real Arcade Pro V3 SA for $100 shipped?
I am kicking myself for not picking one up last month at this price.
I can’t justify spending $130 on the Real Arcade Pro V3 SA, when I have already HRAP3.
Thanks!
Milan
I believe I’ve only seen 2 sticks with modified artworks in this entire thread @_@… What are people afraid of exactly?
I have a SE myself, am about to buy a V3SA (90$ from a friend!), and the first thing I’ll do is soak the box in paint thinner; I found out that it’s the easiest way to remove stickers without any residue. Let it sit in there for an hour and the artwork will just come off in strips by the scratch of a nail. Don’t ask me why it works, it just does really well.
The paint thinner will also permanently damage the plastic of the case.
Paint thinner won’t always damage plastic, but lacquer thinner is far more dangerous. It’s best to try it out on a discrete area and see what happens. Usually you can find even better ways to take the labels off.
I’ve changed artworks countless times on my SE using that method and my casing isn’t the least bit damaged…
edit: Hmm, but then again, the SE’s plate is made out of metal. I’ll try putting a random plastic item in thinner to see what happens =o
^ What are these more efficient ways to remove the sticker?
Careful hands, razor blade scrapers, and well controlled flow of elbow grease.
And all plastics are different, you wouldn’t want to test on a different kind of plastic and assume it works fine. In your case, I wouldn’t recommend using the thinner. Just be careful and do it the hard way.
A quick google search nets me results ranging from soaking in hot water, to applying wd40, baby oil or lighter fluid. The reason why I don’t want to use sharp tools is because I do not want to scrape the surface
But yeah, needs more modded sticks ni this thread!
I can’t find elbow grease on LizardLick, is it like $hin-Etsu? I’ll pay anything 'cause this is recommended all over the place and I can never find it, I always just have to try really hard without.
Actually do be careful with sharp stuff on the V3, the matte black does scratch very easily.
I’ve only done a SE stick, VLX and my Qanba Q3. I know plexi-glass can take Goof-Off(glue remover) though I’m afraid of the V series plastic being eating away by anything acetone. It’s common knowledge that acetone eats away plastic though so beware of any remover that contains it.
As for cutting holes, going over the contours of a metal plate is easy because you won’t damage it unless you’re applying insane pressure against the blade and plate. It’s plexi-glass that you had to go softly against because you will event start shaving the the material off.
Holes cut for my VLX
Holes cut for my SE Stick
As I mentioned, I was about to change the art from my HRAP V3 but I got a VLX instead.
It depends on the person.
Some people, like you say, are afraid to touch the joystick and mod anything because they think it’s bad luck or they’re just terminally clumsy and can’t use a screwdriver to save their lives!
Others like me like the existing artwork and don’t see a point in changing it. I already have a few ideas of what I want to mod – change the joystick to an LS-40-01, replace six of the buttons with black rimmed OBSF-30s, and install a meshball on the new joystick.
I just think it’s a pain to do the sticker thing unless you’re committed to keeping the joystick that way or have something neat that will probably sell on the used stick market regardless.
It would have been nice to have a plexi option, too, but I just don’t see it happening without destroying the existing art, either. You need to get at the screws that hold the faceplate on and we all know what that means!
I wasn’t afraid of altering my T5’s radically. Unless you’re a raving Tekken fanboy, you’re not going to keep that awful CG sticker art… I’m not oblivious to what the stick is worth… It’s really only worth something in an unopened box with all the Collector’s set contents. And I’m not a collector that’s anal about things that much. Those T5 sticks had the good base but the existing buttons and joystick were garbage. (Definitely keep the PCB unless you don’t need PS2 compatibility!) The OEM gate also made it next-to-impossible to install anything but a JLF in them. I cleared that problem on the 5 faceplates I successfully modded!
To me, it seems like the HRAP V graphic has no real surface protection any so much like a really used TvC stick, the graphic looks like it will slowly rub off unless I am wrong. For the couple of days of use out of my V3, I would just PS duplicate the stock art and print/laminate my own so it last near forever until I want a different design.
Aside from that, parts swapping should be a pretty brain dead procedure nowadays with how straight forward every manufacturers designing the sticks. Remove bottom plate, pull quick disconnects, pop out the buttons and just unscrew the stick out. I had some assistance from a friend where he did the spring/microswitch mod on my stock JLF stick that came with the VLX.
my method is Starting Fluid and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, don’t want to use sharp tool either cause i don’t want to injure myself
+1
but i want to change it now is there a template for this?