Hori Real Arcade PRO V3 "SA" Thread - (Available Now! Check OP!)

Tech Talk
621

I’ve just come to realize that by the time that Hori made the Fighting Stick EX2 is when M$ has made it mandatory for buttons to be specific colors and a specific layout(which may had something to do with why 360 dominates in shmup titles) different from the 360 pads. That’s fine but it would be nice not to have to worry about changing a pre-defined button config in SFIV/SSFIV(Type C, Type B for the TE MvC2 stick) whenever I’m not playing on my console. Oh well, in the end, these sticks comes with quick disconnects out of the box so it just takes 5 minutes to rewire them to be default.

That’s what I’m concerned about my VLX…I want to add a nice long vibrant graphic on it but then again, the Vewlix theme is just sooooooooo pretty that I don’t want to mess it up(not sure what will damage the stock panel’s paint but I’m thinking goo off will be harmful enough).
Anyway, there’s a template here posted by NRX earlier in this thread and mine on(based off of NRX’s template but made in layers) on page 23. As mentioned, I didn’t get the opportunity to test it out on my previous HRAP V3 but placing it over it looked pretty close to specs.

I worry about two things about the HRAP V series sticks:

  1. The stock graphic seems to be just a print stuck on, I’m not surprised that with time and heavy wear that the art will start rubbing and fading(like the TvC stick).
  2. Clearance from the metal plate to the plastic case, peeling off the stock art would be ideal IMO but I was afraid that there would be a slight gap in between the case and the metal plate that would case the art to crease when pressure is applied…in that case, it would be a good idea to stick your custom art over the stock art.
    So yes, I would just take our the buttons and ball top, then cut a tiny hole were the stick shaft sticks out and apply then use an exacto knife and gently go along the button outlines then punch them out(metal on metal isn’t as bad as metal on plexi).
622

Hey guys,
so after testing some adapters i decided i’ll have to mod my HRAP VX SA that probably arives tomorrow.

I was going for a ChimpSMD but since i’m in brazil, shipping will take quite a long time and some friends have already received some PS360 boards, so i’m going with that.

What do you guys recommend?

I was planning on removing the original pcb, the original cable, the original button wiring, then, installing a new wiring from the buttons to the PS360, a new cable for the ps360 and for the daughterboard i was planning on doing the same thing one of our members did some pages back there on which he kept the original flat cables of the daughter board and use some wiring to keep the functionalities. I don´t know how to do that though.

Insights please ?

623

Personally, I would order an MC Cthulhu/Imp and just wait it out, regardless of the shipping. That way you can keep all of the original wiring, the quality PCB, and have a stick that’s ready for multi-console use. That’s what I’m most likely going to do with my VX-SA.

However, if you really must mod it now, then I suppose you could do something like this with the PS360 board: Hori RAP V3 SA Dual Mod - Blogs - Shoryuken. You would keep the functions for the home and back/select buttons, but keep in mind that you would lose the turbo sliders functionality (if you even use them).

624

Thats exactly what i was planning and that was the image i was refering to. Thanks!

As for the PCB, i can’t see why the PS360 is not as equally in quality as the original PCb.
I’d really like to use the Chimp but the thing is, we’re having a tournament here in February and i’m afraid i wouldn’t be able to use the stick up to february by ordering it.

Ohh doubts, i guess i gonna order one and then see where i go.

625

hey guys, tech newbie here, does anyone else have a problem where the white balltop keeps unscrewing by itself? it keeps happening to me during matches and it’s kind of distracting…

to clarify: i’ve got teflon tape in it atm and it’s working, just want to know if this is a common problem

626

Use locktight. Get the blue kind and squirt a drop into the ball and screw it on. It’ll keep it from coming off unless you want to purposely remove it.

627

Ok, so i’m going with the ChimpSMD.

Not sure yet how can i do it to the hori pcb. Is it doable?

628

Yes Loctite probably won’t void the warranty. It’s kinda stupid that these sticks were made for mods and customization yet they stick a sticker on the button to protect warranty, it seems that they purposely not screw the ball top firmly so people have to open the bottom. Pro-tip, at the bottom of all sticks, they have a indent intended for screw drivers so that you can “stop” the shaft from turning when tightening ball tops.

629

Just got mine, gonna drop my 2 cents.

To me, the stick is really light. But i don’t know how, it’s as stable as the HRAP3 for lap play in my experience, and i tend to go a little heavy while playing.

The layout is just ass. You have to switch to Type-C, and if you tend to play a lot offline with friends, it’s REALLY annoying. Mine came with the QD for the Roundhouse disconnected, so i just opened and switched the layout to fit Type-A controller.

The wrist area is really small and i can’t see how someone can play without moving their wrist and keeping it place. But i managed to play with no problems while moving my hand all the time.

I don’t know why but it felt more comfortable than the TE, but i’m not really fond of the TE since i played a lot with the HRAP3. I usually hit the area between the buttons a lot playing the TE and don’t know how this isnt happening here.

As for the Start placement, like many said before, i also started to like it there. But i haven’t took the stick to tournaments yet and have been testing mostly Online, who knows if i didn’t hit it by accident.

I still think the HRAP3 is a stick that tends to please more players than the VX-SA. The VX series is kinda of unique in many terms and the first hours playing it felt a little different. I’m almost 100% used to it by now and i’m starting to enjoy the stick, but i still think many hard-headed players may turn their nose against this controller. Don’t take me wrong, this stick is really top notch and rivals really well with other top sticks, but, in general, i’m a little disappointed with the stick, even though i know in some days i’ll probably will get completely used to.

Ps: The box is WAY better than the monstruosity that is the HRAP3 box. If you live overseas, chances are you might not be taxed with the HRAPVX over the gigantic HRAP3 sa.

630

I have to agree to almost everything you mentioned there Sarda.

Stick is light…
Yup, it’s the lightest of all the “high end” sticks.
Layout is just ass…
Blame Microsoft, Sony doesn’t care about the layout for their licensed merchandise.
Thank god, more and more companies are making their sticks with quick disconnects, I rewired mine(well all my sticks were for PS3 but my VLX is the EX version). Labeled the QDs with masking tape and a sharpie.
The wrist area is really small…
Like the VLX, I think it’s really meant to be played on a surface rather other than the lap due to the stick angles down after an inch or so.
Start placement…
I loved it ever since I took my V3 out of the box, the only hand that should me swaying around is your left hand and being that Sanwa buttons are pretty sensitive, you would probably want to restrict movement.

I would recommend the HRAP V series to anyone looking a new stick rather than the TE stick because it has messy insides and it’s clunky.

Does anyone know what sized button the “Start” button is? I tried to compare it with one of the 6 24mm buttons in my other stick but it seems much smaller.

631

Now what i need are some really ‘For Dummies’ tips on how to install the ChimpSMD and a picture of the inner part of the PCB.

As for the lightness i´m considering installing some weights on this thing. And the wrist area, like i said, i got used to it and i´m playing without resting my hand. Is that a problem? I guess it´s even better, i didn´t use to keep the wrist in place on my HRAP3 as well.

@syn: Hey, could you write the mapping down by the colors of the wires for us? Is possible, great!

632

Let’s see:
Red - X
Black - A
Yellow - Y
Orange - B
Blue - RB
Green - RT
Purple - LB
Gray - LT
Can’t remember if the V series’ wires are color as well since I’ve opened mine for a brief moment to swap the ball top :smiley:
The above picture is from my EX VLX so it should be all good.

633

So, can anybody take pictures and map the pcb and where the ChimpSMD should be soldered?

634

Anyone know how to get one of the Amazon JP edition sticks?

635

^Specialist or proxy/middleman service? Be prepared to pay atleast double.
I know Amazon.jp ships certain items outside Japan but not sure about games and etc…

I use EX Japan/Yokattaweb because they have a simple system which is the 700 JPY service fee and an extra 10% on winning bids/buy it now for Yahoo Auctions Japan bid fee(which you can forget about since it’s from Amazon.jp).

HRAP V3 SA Amazon Edition - 12,800
Middleman services - 700
Local shipping - Free from Amazon?
International shipping to US - 6,000(it ranges about 6,000 to 8,000 JPY using EMS service with no other shipping option)
Total amount: 19,500 JPY = 234.968 USD

That’s also not including customs fee as well if it counts, anything over $60 declared value is taxed up to $25 for Canada(Toronto). In the end, if you’re ready to spend that much, just get a domestic HRAPP VLX.

636

And what about pictures of the PCB to help with the installation of the ChimpSMD? I’d need some directions on where to solder the pcb. Anyone has done that yet or can contribute ?

637

Some of you guys like to nitpick a bit much! LOL

I like the Mad Catz TE design, agree that the wiring bundle is a pain-in-the-butt. The PCB (especially 360 version) is possibly one of the worst PCB’s put in a joystick. The wiring bundle issues are easily dealt with by dividing the bundle into smaller bundles and using zip ties to anchor those bundles to the holes in the middle plastic of the case. Otherwise, it’s a well-designed case. Well-engineered and well-built varies by your mileage but I’ve bought several of these joysticks and have kept all of them.

One of my most extensively modded cases (and one that will probably become my new Number One after it’s finished) is an R1 TE that was spray-painted white last summer/early fall when the weather was still warm and it’s waiting for an MC Cthulu, RJ-45 pass-through (holes already drilled for that in the old enlarged USB cable hole!), an LS-32-01 or LS-40-01, and a white acrylic cover to put on top of the faceplate once I remove the old art. I’m keeping all the original buttons with the exception of a white 30mm taken out for a blue 30mm. I’ve got an art theme in mind that demands one blue button. Plus I hate a sea of all-white 30mm’s to be honest! I like some variety of colors.

I sold the TE PS3 PCB from that modded case for what I considered low-range, disposable income. I just didn’t want the buyer to feel bad IF the PCB failed later on. I haven’t had issues with any of my TE PCB’s (all PS3 models, btw) but I do consider it a strong possibility that at least one of them will fail in the future. Some things with Mad Catz never change!

The Start Button on the V3 SA is a 24mm size. Real easy to see on my stick that’s it noticeably smaller than the Fighting Buttons.
It’s only the second or third time Sanwa has manufactured an exclusive color for a 24mm button. The HRAP 2 SA also used grey 24mm’s for Start and Select.

The Select button is out of the way on the Turbo panel since hardly any games use it. I like the layout but have to admit I haven’t played with my V3 SA yet. I’ve been playing the heck out of games with my revived HRAP 3 SE since I got new PS-15’s for it! I just needed to get used to those buttons so I played a marathon session with them until my fingers hurt a bit. Next time I played with the stick, I was more used to the buttons.

No question, Sanwa is still the easiest button brand to play with. After them, the next most sensitive are the Seimitsu Pearls followed by PS-14-G’s.

I like the look of the PS-15s, but they’re definitely harder buttons in my opinion than the flatter PS-14-G’s and assuredly the Pearls. Sensitivity with the PS-15’s is hard to talk about when they feel so hard! They depress about the same as PS-14-G’s though… No issues of locking up in the button rim or off-centering since they’re manufactured to emulate the Sanwas. I still think they’re more attractive looking that the PS-14-G’s… I might only like the Pearl buttons better in the Seimitsu catalog.

If you’re a bleeder like me (your fingers hurt after a while in extended playing), stick with the Sanwas for competitive play. Your lack of carpal tunnel will thank you!

638

Right now, they’re Japan-only sticks. I haven’t seen any of the usual import shops carrying the the Amazon.jp exclusive VX/V3 joysticks. Maybe after a while if they don’t sell well, Amazon.jp will release stock to game shops throughout Asia. I really don’t know if they do that, period. You still have to deal with an intermediary in Japan that will sell the joystick to you AFTER they use your money to buy it. Your best bet is a buddy living in Japan if you have one… Third parties can really jack up the prices of these sticks and reliable shipping (EMS) will be at least $50-$60, too.

CORRECTION ON COMMENT ABOUT IMPORT SHOP AVAILABILITY – Play-Asia.com HAD a source for the ‘dark blue’-buttoned V3 but they’re saying it’s out-of-print. You’d have to check Yahoo Japan or eBay Japan for these sticks. Again, you’re dealing with people who might not want to sell sticks internationally or will gladly sell them to you for a nice surcharge!

The White HRAP 3’s sure showed up everywhere and those were supposed to be ‘Amazon.jp’ exclusives, too!

One thing most people don’t know or don’t take into consideration is that the even the special edition joysticks DON’T retail in Japan for $150, $200. They’re usually at most $15-$20 more than the vanilla joysticks in the same line. Similar pricing with the sticks that have character art, too.

I’ve really only see the BlazBlu V-sticks at game shops along with the regular V3/VX’s.

I haven’t even seen JapanVideoGames, which used to have a great selection of joysticks for PS3/360/PS2, stock the regular V3 SA. They carry the VX and BlazBlu V-stick but not anything else of the line now.

I think 2009 was the peak of the current joystick market and every shop is being more careful with orders because of the economy and the craziness in the increased security. Few companies are taking chances now with fragile world situations.

I don’t think as many copies of the Arcana Heart 3 V-sticks will be sold as earlier versions. For one, it’s a kind of girly joystick and a Japanese thing. Not many people want to import a joystick with characters they don’t know for a game only a few people have played in less than a dozen arcades in the US (or anywhere outside of Japan and Southeast Asia for that matter). The asking prices for that stick online were crazy for a while but I think they settled down to the usual $150 for a first-run press of a special edition joystick… (Play-Asia certainly isn’t gouging hard like some other import shops.) Some people will probably still get just to have a red joystick or because they’re really that diehard for Arcana Heart!

639

Will the V3 SA work just fine on the Blaze PS2/PS3 to 360 converters?

640

So, can anyone help me with the ChimpSMD installing thing ?