Do they, the Mad Catz?
I don’t like HRAP not being threaded.
i guess its just a personal thing then.
The jlf sits alot lower, giving the impression that the shaft is that much shorter.
Which in turn hurts my hand after a few minutes of playing.
the mounting plate on my hori is threaded.
Are all the holes?
From my experience, only the holes of the original Joystick that is mounted is threaded.
The other holes available are not threaded.
My first post here and I just want to spread the love for this stick!
First of all thanks ShinJN and Toodles for the awesome axisdapter!
Now to show off my stick…
This is the HRAP-V3-SA after opening and removing the buttons and stick
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Jesus I had a total crazy trouble removing the screw that holds the stick. All 4 screwz are probably casted that it requires something like an impact driver to remove, I have to say removing screwz with hand plier is not a very alluring experience.
i was thinking of removing only the stock pcb and leave the panel there and cover it with something later…
only to find out that all the buttons there will come off when the pcb is removed… damn they only place the button there lol. I ended up resorting to remove the whole thing.
and here’s the case after the sticker removed.
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the sticker is a thick matte laminated paper. kinda hard to find here. but actually a 260gram matte print with matte laminate will do as a replacement. you can get this very easily in a printing studio.
I’m going to use sixaxis PCB to make the stick wireless and since I don’t want to mess with the stock wiring I completely removed them. which means, I lack 2 buttons for select and home button…
drill time…
I decided to put the select and home button on the right side. I pasted some thick paper on the surface where I want to drill to make sure the drill won’t go awry since the plastic is pretty sleek.
And put support to make sure it’s held properly. I used 2 small cabinets and hold the stick inbetween them.
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and DRILLLZZZZZZ!!!
first hole out
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I couldn’t find 24mm drill head. So I used 22mm instead. result, the hole is smaller than the button. So I had to grid them manually after.
My own hand grinding is not very accurate tool and it ended up as a nasty looking hole which of course I cant show here. But the buttons actually covers it so It still look perfect after all.
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the hole is pretty tight too and the buttons stays there firmly. all good.
The extra buttons are installed. and before I can proceed with other buttons and the stick, we first need to stick back the artwork. of course, I threw away the stock artwork and made my own. and of course OF COURSE I had to draw rachel.
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After I finished drawing in SAI, I transfer her to photoshock to give her quick background.
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when you print make sure you tell the shop to print them UNSCALED!! 100%!!
the print shop over here is retarded and still print them fit to paper even when I already told them to print it unscaled. pffft…
I stick the artwork using thin double sided tape. I cover the whole surface with doubletape and then stick the artwork slowly. as lame as a doubletape is it’s more than sufficient to hold this in place. and as a plus it makes it easier for me to remove it later in case I want to change it again :9
now proceed to cut the holes. I simply followed the hole in the metal plate from outside with art knife. pretty easy
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dont have to be super perfect. the buttons will cover them later.
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I dont lie. the buttons cover them D:
and… JESUS STUPID PRINT SHOP! the art now aint fittin and the holez slanted from the mark! this annoyed me to no end.
and the inside after all the buttons inserted and LS-32-01 take the place of the sanwa stick
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and I had another awesome trouble screwing in the stick = =. the stock screw is too tight to put back. I however made a shocking discovery… THE SCREW USED FOR SEALING THE STICK GATE FITS THE METAL PLATE PERFECTLY! I then stole 2 screws off the gate holder and substituted the screwz used to seal the gate with the stock screw it fits the gate D:…
wiring… axisdapter made it super easy to map the whole thing to the sixaxis pcb.
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it wasnt until i wire the whole button that i realized that im wiring all this backwards… so i had to completely remove them again and remap them. awesome.
and once im done… testing… the stick works perfectly. awesome! D:
you can still see the cables off the hole I left open from the panel. I still cant figure out what to do with this hole. this is another thing that annoys me to no end.
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I’ll make sure I’ll find a way to close this hole >.<
the usb port in the pcb can get pulled easily as any sixaxis would. i was trying to avoid the thing getting pulled accidentally and opted for female jack and to just use the cable when charging the stick. eventually the lame color won me over and i swapped them to the standard male USB A to male mini USB that connects straight to the PCB. to avoid having the thing accidentally pull or whatever, I splintered the cable inside the stick before releasing it to the cable storage.
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Of course I made it so that you can store the cable inside the stick like a real HRAP-V3SA :9
The splintered cable inside makes the cable very hard to pull off from outside. The stick can be hanged with only the cable no problem now. So it would be safe unless I do a hulk pull on it i guess.
It’s done for now, until I find a way to close that hole >.<
one last shot
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stick specs :
HRAP-V3SA body *drilledz
stick : seimitsu LS-32-01
buttons : sanwa OBSF-30 8x sanwa OBSF-24 3x
PCB : sixaxis with axisdapter
wiring : wire soldered to quick disconnect then crimped
wireless : yes
battery : 600mAh standard sixaxis battery
You were supposed to print without those Button Circles. :sad:
i actually made those button circles larger than the button so they have a slight black border seen on the paper. <- was actually my intention. tho they printed it fit to paper so the end result is smaller resulting the button circles becomes almost the same size as the button hole >.<
oh and, most annoying part is that the made-up magic cirlce on the stick is not centered. lol. and its totally so obvious because of the red color.
Oh, that print was the scaled from print place?
I was thinking you got a second print.
Laugh.
So that is why the Joystick part is off also.
i would if the place is close to home. had to drive pretty far to the place so… lol.
Very nice! Did you use my template? Some of the button hole/joystick hole issues there may have been my fault, it’s not 100% accurate 
But I didn’t think it was that off. Ack, hope it wasn’t my fault!
ah yeah. i forgot to credit you NRX! very sorry >.<
it wont be that off if its printed unscaled. your stick looks fine so i guess its not your fault really. thanks sire! lol
Oh, okay, I see now.
Yeah, it should have been pretty accurate. I’m glad that someone used it :bgrin:
i’m too lazy to open up my madcatz te to check but the all holes were threaded for my friends madcatz tvc stick.
based on the picture, it sure looks threaded. but the older hraps aren’t threaded at all besides the holes for the factory stock stick. i know cuz i fuck up a few of the factory bolts trying to thread the hrap se to put in a sanwa.
so jdm, what exact size are the bolts i need to replace with? i’m sure you know.
Okay seriously, how hot is the fire engine red Arcana Heart 3 VX/V3-SA? January 13th.
I like red but for some reason that shade doesn’t do it for me…
I’d stick to the Round 1 Black Case. It looks the best to me out of all the V3 variants released so far.
I was hoping to see a white V3 case for PS3 but it didn’t happen…
I took a bunch of pictures of it here while at Tokyo Game Show:
SWEEEEEEET. Thanx for pics! Were there any other sticks at TGS that might have gone under the radar?
I’m thinking about an EVA-02 themed mod now…
A ton, I should upload the rest of my pics.
Also! I need to art mod the V3 I picked up. Any suggestions on where I should get art printed?
Yeah all of them are threaded.
There are 6 holes, the jlf was mounted using the 4 corner ones.
I mounted the ls32 with just the 2 centers
That is cool to know. :wgrin: