Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 Is Dead: Any tricks?

Well, I plugged in my HRAP3 into my PS3 today and it’s not working. The Turbo LED flashes, and that’s it. My PC does not recognize it anyone; it comes up as an unrecognized USB device. I’ve opened the thing up and reassembled it. Nothing appears to be wrong mechanically, so either the USB wire died from the occasional tugging, or the PCB is dead. Anyone have any thoughts on how to diagnose, or possibly fix it?

If that’s not an option, anyone have any thoughts on a comparable replacement? The buttons and sticks on the HRAP3 are still intact, and I also have some Senwa buttons and a stick from a Cthulhu Shmup stick I broken while upgrading, so I could always replace stock parts if it’s easy enough.


Maybe the USB cord is broke… if you can solder please get a new USB cable and install it. if not your pcb is dead for unknown reasons : (

It’s a plug and play USB. I’ve no idea if the socket connection is proprietary or not. Does anyone here have experience with changing HRAP3 USB cables?

Thank you. Just a note though, the PCB for HRAP3 does not support soldering. The USB cords plug into a rectangular plastic bit which plugs into a slot on the PCB. I’m going to need to see if I can reuse the one in my stick. If not, I’ll need to find out where I can get one myself. (What’s it called?)

@Phreakazoid 's Phreakmods USB Repair Tool


You could also solder to the underside of that harness.

So, Here is the PCB connector for the cable. Does anyone know what this is called so I can find a replacement?




You are unlikely to find one, even from China ebay.

Dude, just solder a new USB cable on.

The female end of the connector is in the way.

For fucks sake, you’ve already been told you can solder to the underside of the connector.

Do it.

You could even snip off that end of the USB cable, with that female end, and splice your new cable into that.
I would cut off about 1 to 6 inches, no more. You only want the portion of the USB cable that remained the case.

I’ve been doing more research and I’ve figured out what that is: It’s part of the JST company’s EH connector line. Managed to order the necessary parts, and a bunch of quick disconnects for about $10. Once I get the items in the mail, it’ll be quick, easy, and safe to repair the cord.

Well, I’m a bit of an idiot. I got so caught up in figuring out how to fix the USB cable that I forgot to check to see if it was broken in the first place! I mean, it was damaged - the outer casing ripped - and abused quite a bit.

Yeah, the cable is actually fine; now that I’m home, I was able to do a continuity test on the ends of the wire, and it passes. No cross circuits either; the wire looks poor but is passing signal A.O.K.

JST connector pins give me a pain in the sphincter.
My money is still on that USB cable not being as good as you think it is. I would try to replace it before doing anything else. Next step would be to start probing the PCB itself or replacing it all together.

Well, I’m not quite sure how to go about testing the cable futher; it passes a continuity test and I’m not sure how to test it beyond that.

This hasn’t been stressed enough.

@Narroo: If you can’t do it yourself, ask someone to do it for you and stop ignoring the solution that’s been given to you

No need to snip any wiring from the USB cable. Do what I did with my wires that I took apart from my VLX. Grab a small ass screw driver and pop the wires out of the female connector. If you can find another connector then you can just slide them in (must be the same order that you took them out in, it should also be labled on the pcb near the male connector)

except you still need USB on one end and the JST connector on the other end.
if you find the connector loose, with unused in crimped pins, you can strip the end of the USB cable, crimp the ends and make a custom cable.
The easier solution is just to cut the cable with the JST connector off, and splice that into a new USB cable.

OP Narroo here has a break most likely have a break someone on his USB cable.
Just changing the order of the pins on another JUST connector isn’t going to help.

Not sure why everyone on Shoyuken is obsessed with Soldering. The crimp pins are like 1 cents each; it’s safer, quicker, and easier to just use the pins.

That said, I can’t find a break in the USB. If it’ll make you happy, I can quick Mickey Mouse something together to test another stripped USB I have lying around, but really people, calm down.