Yeah, it’s the forthcoming US release, rather than the Japanese one, I ordered from Amazon.
Amiami been sold out, I could not get a Hrap v4 from AmiAmi months ago, I had to go to Play Asia.
Dose the stick have that feltish / velvetish material on the bottom?
No.
I received my V4 last week and I’m far from pleased. The Hayabusa stick has major faults. It registers opposite direction inputs when returning to neutral. Playing Guilty Gear, holding down then releasing the stick back to neutral often results in the character jumping. If I press a direction and release in rapid succession I would get a super jump. Testing the same situations over and over with multiple sanwa sticks and didn’t have this issue. I’m not sure if previous Hayabusa joysticks were higher quality, but I had the chance to play on another V4 and it had the same issues.
This is just a fair warning to anyone who plans to get this stick. I’ve already swapped it out for a Sanwa JLF myself.
Wouldn’t a heavier spring fix that issue entirely?
I own 3 Hayabusa Joysticks and I never had this issue, one from a Hori V4.
I own a Hayabusa and with the stock plastic ball top this does not happen. However, with an aluminum ball or bat top you will get the issue you described without adding in a bit heavier spring to offset the extra weight of the tops (PAS has them). So my next question is are you using an non-stock and heavier ball or bat top?
Nope it was stock out of the box. Got it through Amazon. Maybe it’s only an issue with recent shipments? Also have you tested it out in Guilty Gear? I have the issue in both +R for PS3 and PC #Reload.
I have the hayabusa in both my sticks and I have 0 problems in both the guilty gear games. I even practiced in the xrd demo and had no problems there.
The one you have could be a dud.
Maybe a defect in the spring causing it to be weaker. Try a JLF spring and see if you continue to have issues.
I’m with NENDO here. Replace the spring with a JLF spring and see what happens. I pulled out my Hayabusa and threw it in to double check and make sure I wasn’t crazy and sure enough it does not have any issues. I can snap that sucker pretty hard and not get an opposite input (tested in USF4 training mode with inputs on). As soon as I put on an aluminum bat top though it did it like crazy. So it sounds like your spring is weaker than it should be.
So yeah swapping out the springs was the first thing I tried. Didn’t help. The springs seemed almost identical in strength. I must have a defective one. Sucks that in order to check that I had to take off the warranty sticker…
Just get a stiffer spring then. I think the JLF comes with a 1lbs spring. Get a 1.5 or 2LBS spring.
Is there enough space to put a ps360+ in there?
I’m planning on drilling an extra hole to get a different usb cable for 360 only
Thanks in advance for your response
A PS360+, it’s do-able.
I don’t see why you need a Different USB cable for the PS360+, just use a DPDT switch or Imp and use a single USB cable.
First, thanks darksakul for helping me out. I’d like to call myself a modder, but I’m years behind you all guys.
I decided to go with 2 holes/neutriks because that’s what I had available, and was simpler (in my opinion) and easier to maintain.
Anyway. now I’d like to use the PS, turbo and share buttons to map Guide, start and select in the ps360+.
If it’s not much to ask, could you please point at the solder points in the pcb?
Thanks again
I want to say based off your 2nd photo, the ground for the SUB-PCB us the 3rd from the left.
I would take a multimeter to confirm this.
You would not need to mess with the PCB with the switches.
I am unsure what pins are the PS and Guide buttons go to.
Also why not use the existing start/options button that is on the top panel ?
Also make sure with your 2 PCBs and 2 USB cables you still have Power and Ground connected to each other.You can do this where the cables meet or from the PCBs them selves.
In the future I plan to use a plexi to cover options button. Also, I noticed that if you turn the “fighting mode” switch on, the options button has no action, and turbo becomes options, so I want to recreate that in ps360.
I think you mean, make sure that both turbo pcb and ps360+ pcb have ground and vcc when in xbox mode, correct?
Thanks again for taking time to reply 
offtopic: I just noticed in GG demo that if you keep pressed l3 and r3, it resets the training mode, same as pushing the touchpad in ds4 - wohoo!
Soo, this is a work in progress, but for anyone interested:
From left to right
upper level: 1 is PS button
bottom level: 3 is ground
bottom level: 4 is share
bottom level: 7 is turbo
Hopefully I’ll finish modding this before weekend
Wish me luck, and thanks again Darksakul for posting the original photo