Have you tried the Hayabusa out yet? If not give it a chance first, then make your judgement. Everyone different.
I just installed a hayabusa in my old HRAP3… not sure if I like it. I’m not sure how to explain it in words, so here’s an mspaint diagram:
http://i.imgur.com/ADhWf3M.png?1
Basically, when the shaft hits the restrictor gate it stops movement. But if extra force is applied, the shaft pulls upward. Is this supposed to happen?
Yes, it happens on ALOT of joysticks. You supposed to stop movement before that.
The Restrictor plate is a guide not a rail to ride on.
What is this even called? And the old stick in my HRAP didn’t do this (which I believe is a JLF). Why? How are they different?
I ride the gate all the time and I don’t have that issue. I think you may be extending the stick TOO far, like trying to go beyond the gate which will end up pulling up on the stick. Or, you’re simply pulling up on the stick and not realizing it. The sticks are possible to pull up on, the only have a fairly weak spring to keep them tense, so it’s not all that difficult on this stick.
I got the microswitches with levers today, soldered them in and I’m happy to report that it’s now really snappy. Not really any dead room before engage. Might take a bit of time to get used to but feels pretty good!
Pics?
I used the same switches as sethian0 and just resoldered the existing wires, nothing fancy. I’ll have some more time today to test it and I have a hunch I will want a stronger spring to make returning to neutral easier. It’s really that precise.
The corners were too dominating so I took out the levers but left the Omrons in place. I tried them with a stronger spring, a 2Ib maybe, but it’s too much I feel. Reverting to the original spring with Omrons for now!
It’s funny this whole thing started when I felt like I wanted more feedback from the actuation but now that I test the microswitches side by side (original and Omron) the Omron’s click @0,5N feels weaker compared to the originals. I like the sound of Omrons better though!
More testing ahead. A spring somewhere between the original and 2Ib would probably be nice.
edit:
The original swithces have a 2N actuation force! No wonder the Omrons felt weaker.
Sounds a lot like what I had went through a year ago. If 2lbs is too much try PAS’s 1.5 lb spring, it’s my preferred with a custom 2mm oversized actuator for throw reduction, makes it feel similar to an LS-40 with a tad shorter throw. Or if you want a slightly stiffer yet not much stiffer spring, try an LS-32 spring in the hayabusa.
quick question:
do silent microswitches for hayabusa exist?
if not…
does any jlf optical option work?
thanks
Switch swapping solutions are shown early in the thread. Be ready to solder or dremel No optical boards will fit.
Not sure if this is the proper place to ask, but how does the silent Hayabusa feels compared to the silent JLF?
Has anyone here been able to successfully drop in the Hayabusa stick in a Qanba Q2 Pro? I sold a friend a Q2 with the hope that he’d be able to use his Hayabusa, but the clearance in the stick is not great. The A/X button is in the way of the joystick plug.
Take out the stick, unscrew the mounting panel from it, rotate 90 degrees, rescrew mounting panel, remount. voila,you now have clearance. Probably be best if you rotate 90 degrees counter clockwise to get the pin header facing down so it doesn’t run into the plastic piece up top.
Very nice review. So sad I can’t find this beauty here in Europe 
Anyone posted Kowal’s measurements of this thing yet?
Psst. I dun’ it. Full write up coming later this week. 
pas and focus attack ship international, so there should be no stopping you if you wanna try the haya-gaping-noodle.