Hori Hayabusa Joystick/Control Lever Preliminary FAQ... UPDATED with pictures

chaoslimits · May 2, 2014, 1:35am

GeorgeC:

You’re probably right…

What I saw in shaft design didn’t seem to be a huge difference. I do think Moonchilde has the point on the lubricating plastics. If I were going to switch shafts on the Hayabusa for a JLF LED shaft or a Link shaft, at the very least I would transfer the Hayabusa pivot bearing and actuator over to the new shaft. All the parts would port over for an ‘empty shaft’ obviously but at minimum those would be the parts I’d keep and not swap for JLF counterparts, period. All other things considered, I don’t think the E-clip, spring, and spring retainer are markedly different or impact performance. The pivot bearing really IS different; the actuator, self-lubing or not, does not feel like the JLF actuator part but that could be also because of different gate designs between the Hayabusa and JLF.

I was definitely wrong on the throw of the Hayabusa versus the JLF but remember I had NOT played with the JLF in over a year when I got my Hayabusa. I went back again and tried my sole JLF (mounted now in an HRAP V3 SA) and I was surprised by a few things and it answered some of my questions and doubts. The JLF throw is more like the LS-32 and I feel that the Hayabusa has a greater throw than the LS-32. Funny thing is that the greater throw distance on the Hayabusa doesn’t affect my timing all that much. It’s still a very comfortable joystick for me… I’m finding out that as I play more with different joysticks, I’m definitely on the moderate/medium/slightly-greater-than-medium throw comfort zone. Shorter/short throw joysticks aren’t as comfortable for me.
The Hayabusa definitely corners better on diagonal movements and switch activation than the JLF or LS-32 but for different reasons. Versus LS-32, I think one of the big keys has to be the Hayabusa’s microswitches – I like how it hits the LS-56 type microswitches better than how the LS-32 actuator hits the -'32 micros. The LS-32 at times, depending on game, can feel sluggish when it hits the microswitches and doesn’t hit the switches solidly all the time. Is it the microswitch tension, the switch gates, or the LS-32 shaft actuator design??? I really don’t know for certain but I like the feel better on the Hayabusa. It’s not a huge difference that plays out on every game but it is there.
Versus JLF, again, I’ll repeat that I don’t think the JLF has the best restrictor gate design out there. It doesn’t appear to matter to me whether it’s the JLF octo or square gate being used. The gate designs may be a bit too thick and the actuator may not be the best design, either. It bugs me how the JLF actuator rubs against that THING and the gate seems to impact some timed movements. The JLF gate is bugging me on every game out there. It’s just not very ergonomic. I like the gate designs better on the LS-32 and Hayabusa for sure. I’m very comfortable with the square gates on the LS-joysticks and Hayabusa.
Honestly, if the JLF had a different restrictor gate design it might not feel all that different from the LS-32. In the roll and throw, it’s close to the LS-32. I take back what I said about recentering because I tried it again with a certain game that I do dashes on all the time and it didn’t seem that bad. As much as I sometimes miss some diagonals because of mushy LS-32 switches, the gate design of the JLF seems to exacerbate that same situation.

All I can say is: Finally!
I’ve always tested the 3 sticks in 3 different sticks and could not reconcile your previous posts with my experiences. I’m glad you’ve arrived at this point. All 3 are excellent sticks IMHO. :tup:

Edit: Also, good work!

PresidentCamacho · May 2, 2014, 1:55am

Swapping an actuator is quick and easy, certainly faster than swapping levers left and right- well worth trying, imo.

Anyways, I’m wondering how Moonchilde’s custom gates are going to feel in terms of friction and impact.

Moonchilde · May 2, 2014, 4:05am

You can’t swap the pivots, they are not the same. Different shapes, different sizes.

Parts not compatible with JLF and vice versa:
Restriction gate
Pivot
Washer

Parts not exactly the same but compatible:
Actuator
Spring flange
Shaft
Shaft cover

Changeling · April 8, 2015, 3:17am

Replaced the actuator and spring on this and found that if you over tighten the screws on the restrictor gate it will cause the microswitches to not actuate without added force.

mortal_levent_jp · April 27, 2015, 7:43pm

hi. Can I ask A question. I am Living japan i need some help

I bought hori pro v.5 for ps4

I DONT like the Hori joystick,
very soft. I Cannot play very well.

I WANT TO change With HAPP ameican style arcade Joystick like this

but i dont know if possible or no. someone help me
Thank you

kikimaru024 · April 27, 2015, 9:47pm

Pretty sure it’s not possible, since the Happ is too big to fit into the HRAP.

You should just practice more, especially since every arcade in Japan will be using this style of stick.

Most of the American OGs adjusted.

StrtFghtrMstr · April 27, 2015, 10:01pm

First try the Bat top adapters and a 1.5lb & 2lb spring. You should have local dealers of the equivalent in JP.

That’s what I’m using and perfect for me. Just find the right spring for you, 2lb.was way too stiff for my preference and I went back to original, will try a 1.5lb if I order another bat top for another stick, not worth buying alpne because shipping $ > part $

NENDO · April 27, 2015, 10:02pm

It irritates me that there are 2 Hayabusa threads.

d_shot · March 11, 2017, 7:25am

Hello,

I own a RAP4 and want to replace the stick with a SEIMITSU LS-58-01.
Is it possible ?
If yes, which mounting plate should i pick ? (MS, VF, SS-P-40, SE-P-40)

Thanks

PS : sorry if i’m a bit late here

Darksakul · March 11, 2017, 10:58am

Yes

You want the S-plate, the SS-P40. Semitsu tends to me a bit shorter than the Hayabusa or the Sanwa JLF, and the S-plate will give you back some height to your joystick.