You don’t need the original PCB at all, if you want to can totally trash the original PCB (but don’t as its still valuable)
The PS360+ does Xbox 360, PS3, PC, PS2, Dreamcast and I think they are adding Saturn and SNES support soon.
You remove your old PCB, and wire everything to the PS360+, be careful with soldering the USB cable into place.
If you not that good with solder, you might want to consider splicing your USB cable into some connector that plugs into your PS360 +, using a USB type B connector, RJ45 connector or the optional JST wire kit.
Or you can completely replace your USB cable with one that has a USB type B end
Just to be clear, whit the solder points posted by gummo, can i solder that points and in the other side put in the PS360+ and i can activate start or select using the touchpanel? or i need to add that physical buttons?
I’m planning on modding my PS3 FE soonish, I’d like X360 functionality and maybe even PS4 and some button LEDs.
Would a padhack, or PS360+ be easier, or more cost effective?
The only functionality I’d want to keep is the lights on the side of the stick, I don’t care for remapping, etc.
Just finished fixing up a PS3 FE for @ahatzberger and these are my findings, he requested a PS360+ as a pcb replacement.
I used Se~or @Gummo 's diagram as a guide and lots of meter probing to figure these out
-For the “side” and touch LEDs it’s waaaaaay simpler to daisy chain them off the PS360’s P1 LED hookup since it has inline resistors (Just remember to desolder the LEDP1OFF jumper next to the mounted LEDs) also in the diagram the pin above the ORANGE +5v is GND so I passed that to the hookup also.
-For the touch sensors I passed 5V from the PS360 to the PINK +5v in the diagram and just followed the diagram on the other pins and presto! Start/Select is registering and working.
The only Caveat is that if you use it on PC the LED’s do NOT light up, it only lights up on the PS3. However now that I know that i should use a resistor value similar to what the PS360 has inline I am considering going that route since the stick is laying in prototype mode.
Well that’s all folks! Let me know what you think, I am far from being good at this
I have a few questions:
Does anyone make custom plexi for this stick? I want to make it a 6 button stick without it looking all weird and Art Hobbies doesn’t make them afaik, I will just use button plugs for the moment.
Would the best place to add 2 extra 24mm button hole be the compartment door for the accessory box (cloth cleaner in there by default)? I’d prefer it if someone who added extra button holes tell me where they put them.
Btw how hard was the PS360+ replacement PCB JRDIBBS? I plan to replace it with a PS360+ myself and I do want to keep the touch screen start and select along with the LEDs for at least the PS3, if the LEDs are too hard then I may scrap the whole LED thing then. What tools would I need and which brands would you suggest for the wiring purposes for the LEDs if I do decide to do them?
@sasquach Sorry for the late response, in order to mention someone use the @ symbol in front of the name like this @sasquach.
I also thought about adding the buttons to the front but the doors are a bit too deep for my liking so i just made the touchpad work.
As for difficulty, depends on what you want, since we are keeping the blue led color (This stick also has red led color) it was a matter of chaining all of the leds and powering them from the PS360’s led header.
A VERY important note is that since I am powering them through that header, the PS360’s inline resistors are protecting the LEDs from blowing out. If you decide to power them straight from the 5v line of the PS360 you need to add a resistor.
This is how i got it to work, there are two LEDs on each side and one header for the touch leds.
The only downside of this is that it will only light up if you are Player1. The stick will work normally in Player 2 but the LED’s will not turn on since im depending on the PS360’s method of lighting player LED’s
I also wired the touchpad using @Gummo 's diagram i put above, the 5v comes from the screw-in header labeled VCC in the PS360 and the ground also goes to one of those labeled GND (anyone really).
Here is the finished insides. I will be testing and sending it back to its owner this weekend. It was a fun mod.
Tools of the trade, really depend on how much and how deep into modding you are going. I am creating a post about them and will link it later.
If you have budget for these I encourage you to go ahead and start tinkering. I’ve been collecting equipment from different jobs so I haven’t broken bank on them.
Can someone help me wrap my head around this? trying to avoid messing up the leds.
I’m adding an afterglow 360 PCB to the PS3 Hori FE and I have VCC and GND from the usb points on the afterglow going to the corresponding usb points on the Hori.
For the pink 5v on Gummo’s pic for powering the touch panel, I can simply add a jumper line from the VCC usb point on the hori PCB and connect it to the pink 5v point on the same pcb (since VCC from afterglow is already going to hori’s usb point), correct?
For the orange 5v for powering the LEDs, again I can add a jumper line from the VCC usb point on the hori PCB and connect to the orange 5v point but I need to add an inline resistor (~100ohm) between the two, correct?
my friends FE stick will sporadically register multiple inputs when he presses the O button (about 25-30% of the time) what could be causing this to occur?
I own 2 of these sticks and both of them are dual modded for 360 and PS3. When I finish modding my other Hori sticks, I will post pictures of a quaded version of this stick.
I’ve spent some quality time with my white 360 Fighting Edge over the past few weeks. I do really like this stick and think it’s among the best ever made.
That being said, I can’t figure out for the life of me why it was decided to make the bottom plate so short compared to the total width of the stick. The total usable (ie: able to fit on your lap) area of the FE’s bottom is less than the original HRAP’s. That combined with the short vertical height of the chassis makes it very difficult to recommend to anyone looking to mod their sticks. There’s so little room internally to work with that you’d be hard pressed to find a good place to mount an additional PCB, let alone adhesive weights to increase the weight of the stick.
I also don’t get why this stick couldn’t have had at least a plastic cross section beneath the panel like the Hori Soul Calibur V stick does. Ideally, I would like to see the return of the HRAP/VSHG style underpanel comparments, but I understand that would increase the cost of production quite a bit, so I’m okay with the compromise of just having a cross section instead. Yet this stick has nothing beneath the panel at all, which is a bit of a letdown considering its price.
I hope sometime in the future Hori will make another stick much like the Fighting Edge, only with a slightly taller chassis, a wider bottom plate, and a chassis that features some sort of plastic directly beneath the panel. As it stands, I would have to give the FE a pass and recommend the less expensive SCV stick, which is a more rigid, mod friendly chassis. The FE has some advantages out of the box to be sure, but some simple mods would put the SCV stick well above the FE.
I also think the touch panel gimmick needs to go, or at the very least, give the user the option for hardware Start + Select buttons.
Where are you planning on putting the Xbox One/PS4 pcb? I put a brawlpad in mine and I ended up stacking it on top of the original ps3 pcb. The only place without making modifications to the case I think I can put a ps4 pcb would be maybe under the metal panel.
I’m trying to dual-mod my PS3 FE with a Hori FC4. I would like to retain the the original functionality while in ps3 mode and while in ps4 mode, I would only care for the Home, start and select. It seems I would wire everything up directly to the FE PCB making sure to solder the 5v from the FC4 to the two points on the pcb specified by @Gummo. My question is, where would a switch be wired to change between the two PCBs? Could I use a Imp v2 to switch between the two and redirect the usb signal through a RJ45 adapter like the neutrik?
