Where did you order the white shaft and dust cover?
@Shenmue - Sanwa shaft covers and dustwashers work. Seimitsu dustwashers work but you have to modify their shaft covers.
How to mod a Seimitsu shaft cover for JLF and by extension Hori Hayabusa use
Iām pretty sure itās a qanba white shaft and dust cover I ordered from FA a while ago.
Does anyone make (or know anyone who does) custom metal panel + plexi for the FE? I want a Vewlix layout + matching plexi.
Look in the Trading Outletā¦ ask around.
IF you have a buddy or know somebody who does metal work you might be able to work out something with them. They will have to have the Fighting Edge measurements; youāll probably have to loan the existing hardware pieces (probably just the original faceplate will do) so they can get measurements off of it. IF you want a Viewlix/modded āKaiā Viewlix layout, youāll have to give them that information, too, so that they know how to drill the holes. Donāt assume that the person you give custom work to is a gamefan! Youāll have to find and give them all the layout specs so they know where to drill and how big of holes you want. That also includes making drill holes for installing joysticks.
You want to make sure whatever metal they use doesnāt corrode or is treated to resist corrosion. I think the faceplates and baseplates of most joysticks are treated steel. Untreated steel, for instance, can start to rust faster than it takes water to dry out. Iāve seen pictures from people who ordered faceplate panels which started rusting very quickly just after touching it with their sweat.
The problem with a lot of custom metal work is that people often-times donāt get enough orders to justify the expense of start-ups OR real life interferes and people who WERE doing metal panels have to quit for a variety of reasons. There have been at least 2-3 SRK members who have done custom metal work that quit after a while because they lost interest in the hobby (joystick mods) or had issues pop up. One guy was an Air Force or Army reservist who got reactivated for full duty!
Any shaftcover that fits the JLF will fit on the Hayabusa no mods required, period.
Seimitsu shaft mods to fit the JLF/Hayabusa shafts are at least as complicated as JLF-to-LS-32 shaft modsā¦ Kind of a pain and not necessary unless youāre in love with Seimitsu plastic colors. There are so many JLF shaftcover alternatives that I think buying a Seimitsu shaft to mod it is unnecessary work. You only do that if you have spare parts and are anal retentive about matching colors.
I didnāt see any difference in measurements between the JLF and Hayabusa shafts when I compared them; the only difference I saw was black coating on the Hayabusa shaft. All other things are equal/identical. Thereās at least one guy that installed a Link-shaft in a Hayabusa base already!
Right now, Qanba, Mad Catz, AND Sanwa make plastic covers that are JLF-/Hayabusa-compatible. By extension, you can also use the custom JLF aluminum shaft and dustcover kits that Paradise Arcade Shop and Focus Attack sell. Iām thinking of getting a silver aluminum shaft for a future Hayabusa installation myself!
What I like better about the Hayabusa dustcover is the sandy texture on itā¦ However, considering that thereās a Ford Model T mentality (āyou will buy this so long as itās black or white!ā) amongst Japanese arcade part manufacturers itāll probably be a while before we see H-stick shaft and dustcovers in anything but molded black plastic. The JLF was around almost 20 years before Sanwa started making alternate shaftcover colors! (Seimitsu just announced they were going to start making an official LS-32 shaftcover and the -32ās been around longer than the JLF!) Mad Catz had alternate color JLF shaft/dustcovers at least 2 years before Sanwa started making transparent shaft colorsā¦ Sanwa doesnāt make alternate solid colors for JLFās ā they only do solid black and transparent shaft covers.
Anyone know the exact allen key size to remove the top plexi screws on the FE? Thanks.
Just get a allen key set, they do not cost that much, and they are worth having around.
I have a SAE and a Metric set.
You need metric Allen keys.
I havenāt run across a Japanese joystick case that doesnāt use metric screw parts.
Hori and Mad Catz both use M4 diameter screws for the top loading screws on their faceplates. These screws are generally called buttonhead or capsocket screws.
What is different between Hori and Mad Catz is the size of the heads on their capsocket screws. Hori standardizes around 4mm (Size 4) capsocket screws for the HRAP lines; Mad Catz uses 3mm (Size 3) capsocket screws in its Tournament Edition joysticks (unless they changed that with the TE2).
Generally speaking, the only M4 capsockets youāll find in hardware stores and most hardware sites (in the US) are 2.5mm (Size 2.5) capsocket screws. You have to ask Hori or Mad Catz if they have their capsocket screws in stock or order them from overseas. Donāt ask me what thatās soā¦ dunno ā thatās all I could find when I retrofitted my HRAP 3ās to top-load like the HRAP 3 SA and HRAP 3 SE. Good news is that the 2.5mm capsocket screws work just fine with most of the plexis on market!
Between the joysticks I have, I deal with 4 capsocket screw heads ā 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, and 4.0 I have a Husky Allen Key handgrip tool that has Allen keys that match those four sizes plus four more.
I know you are not going to find the M4 0.7 12mm button head screws that take a metric #3 Allen wrench in North American, believe me I tired.
And I found out real quick Hori and Mad Catz will not tell you where they got their screws. And they are highly unlikely to send replacement screws either.
I used to sell replacement TE screws before anyone else did.
For any other machine screws (like for your joystick mount) hit up your local hardware store. For internal screw they donāt have to match, they just have to fit.
Thanks for the input guys.
I do have an allen wrench set. The problem is the one that fits the closest still doesnāt exactly fit the screws. It can turn the FE plexi screws but the fit is still not as snug. I will try to get another set hopefully it will fit the FE screws thanks for the help.
Because the FE screws are metric and you have a SAE (Standard American English) set.
Thanks I went ahead and purchased both SAE and Metric set.
Thanks again for your help GeorgeC and Darksakul.
Simple questions:
- Can I put a Sanwa JLF easily into a fighting edge?
- Can I put Sanwa buttons easily into a fighting edge?
Thank you
had
Yep. http://www.levelup-series.com/hori-innovates-once-again
Iām still undecided on this stick, I keep going back and forth between liking and intensely hating it.
The directions do have less play than my HRAP EX I had been using for years, but hitting the diagonals sure is different on the Hayabusa (there is more play there than on a JLF it seems). Massive pain in the hole for games where D, F != D, DF, F. Iāll have to get used to it.
Also, the configuration-button being the button furthest to the bottom-right is really bad design (especially so considering how much space there is on the touchpad- absolutely massive gap between pad-lock and select?!) for people that have their arms at a wide angle to the buttons; basically means you have to lock the touchpad for even casuals/training, because you will likely rest your arm on top of CNF. Training mode without access to start and select is not so great.
Sharp edges on the faceplate because the plexi cover is a few mm too small and therefore doesnāt sit flush, and the LEDs are way too bright for my liking too, how can you play with those on and not go blind?
Will probably only keep it because it is so hard to get your hands on decent sticks over here in EU (without paying out the ass for customs), wouldnāt buy again for 200, 150-175 maybe.
+1 I also turn off the leds and have tournament mode on all the time. However, even with those issues, the Fighting Edge is my favorite stick to play on (I donāt have any customs). The size of the stick makes it super comfortable to play on. I wouldnāt have paid 200 for it (got it for $132) but, with hindsight, itās definitely worth that much and Iām glad I bought it.
Edit: Iām also starting to see a lot of Fighting Edges at tournaments (even the white ones). Hori must have sold a fair number of these.
Chaoslimits,
The Fighting Edge is also my favorite stick to use. The width makes it very stable and comfortable to play on.
I also own the Macatz fightstick pro, Razer Atrox and Qanba q4raf. Iām curious what other sticks you own.
Iāve had/used:
Madcatz TE R1, TE-S, TE-Pro.
Qanba Q4.
Hori V3SA, HRAP EX.
Itās probably FE > TE R1 > V3SA > the rest for me. Got to spend lots of time with the white Q2 with silent parts at SCR and itās pretty much the only stick other than Fighting Edge or maybe VS that Iād buy right now. Also spent a little time on the Atrox and it doesnāt seem any different from a TE-S.
Currently have the TE-S, HRAP EX and Fighting Edge and I may try to sell the TE-S and HRAP and get a Hitbox (which I think is S-tier and the future of sticks).
Thanks for sharing chaoslimits. I wanted to get the VS for a long time but got tired of waiting for it to be available. The FE is pretty much the same size and prefer the Hayabusa and Kuro now so thereās no need for me to get it anymore.
The Atrox has a good weight to it but it feels hollow and it flexes. The rubber bottom is one of the best though.
I love the FE! The only thing I donāt like about it is the blue neon strips on the side. I never switch to tournament mode because of the bright lights hehe.
You can turn those off in tournament mode, you know.