https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51aWcFFYAXL.AC_SL1000.jpg
Bout damn time. Was getting tired of using PDP MKX pads for dual mods (getting the Guide signal is a bit of a pain). Hopefully it’s common ground like the other HFC and just as easily padhackable
Finally! I still have the PS3/PS4 one /w the rotating d-pad which I am not a big fan of. Mainly need this for PC but will be great to have the XBONE compat as well.
I want one for one of my raspberry Pis with a white case!
But not THAT much that I’m willing to wait til end of May…
I’ll pre-order one as soon as amazon.ca has it listed.
I need a replacement for that awful thing too, but I intend to actually use this as a gamepad and gut the MKX pad so I can convert my Wii U tekken stick to XB1/360. The MKX pad is crap as a controller because it registers button presses twice most of the time.
What does “padhackable” mean?
If this is a serious inquiry;
There’s a few “padhack” threads on this forum so he must be using “padhackable” to describe;
•Easy solder points for repurposing the pcb
•Common ground for all inputs is a bonus, adds more “padhackable” value (and moves the pcb a tier above non-common grd pcbs) that includes pairing this pcb with other common ground pcbs with the greatest of ease.
Yay it’s up on Amazon Canada
I’ve been using mine quite a bit on all three platforms(XB1,360, PC) for the past week and I have no complaints.
I like the feel of it better than the FC4, and I think the feature set for this controller is actually better suited to fighting games than that of the FC4 as well.
There’s no simple toggle switch to change the function of the shoulder buttons, but every individual button is easily remappable. It doesn’t have turbo, which isn’t really a big loss, and probably an improvement for people wanting to use the controller competitively.
I watched a youtube review that pointed out a weird smell and issues with the LED getting hot, but I haven’t had either of those issues, so I think that guy must have gotten a defective one(if I had to guess, I’d say the current limiting resistor for the LED is shorted by a solder bridge, but who knows).
I haven’t looked inside mine, so I really have no idea how good it would be for a donor PCB.