Im wondering if anyone has experienced the problem of their buttons on the ex2 stick goin out on them…i know its not the buttons that are broken because some of them still work…i think it might be the wiring or saudering…because its a modded stick i just purchased from srk on saturday the guy dosent know how to fix the problem i guess so if anyone has some knowledge of a resolution to this issue please help me out.
what you mean by “goin out on them”
like not working or sticking or what?
yea my top middle button and the two bottom right ones are not responding at all.
A similar thing happened to me yesterday. My EX2 no longer responds to Up, Down, Left, LT, or RB. I opened it up to see if there was anything obviously wrong, but didn’t see anything. I’ll have to check it with a multimeter later.
I have the same issue, worked fine yesterday. Went to play today and only A, B and X are working…
so i narrowed it down to the PCB. after resaudering all the button connections pcb randomly uses some buttons and others get no input
Same issue here, X and A arent working. Buttons OK, Soldering OK, must be some other PCB issue.
Hey I don’t mean to high jack this thread, but I’d rather just ask this on a current thread than clutter the forums with a new thread.
Anyway, from what I have been reading, a couple people have been having problems with their EX2, mainly the PCB.
Is it a common problem? If so, it is a hard/expensive fix?
In other words, as a first time joystick buyer, should I save the money and take the chance with the EX2.
Or should I dish out the extra money (5x as much) for the HRAP-EX.
Or should I just go with Arcade In a Box custom stick.
The PCB’s in the EX2 is pretty weak, and may crap out on you in the future. However, if you can get it for cheap, by all means go for it.
DO NOT get a really jacked up in price HRAP-EX (but if it’s close to the MSRP, then go for it) and an Arcade-in-a-Box. It’s just not worth it. It’s better to get the EX2 now (like I said, if it’s cheap), and when it craps out, either mod it, or buy the MadCatz SE/TE sticks that should probably be easy to find by then.
Ok, it seems like I will go with the EX2 then. If the buttons become unresponsive/the PCB craps out, I’ll just look at the forums and mod it.
Not to mention, Arcade-in-a-Box has a mad long wait. I’d rather just learn how to solder and make one myself then.
I replaced the PCB in my EX2 with a original xbox wireless controller. so now my ex2 is wireless…and working again…so thats an option if it does crap out.
Ah I c, thanks.
I modded my EX2 a couple of weeks ago and I was super psyched. Then tonight I was using it and immediately a bunch of random weird stuff was going on, such as buttons working and then not and then some buttons registering kicks when I had assigned them as punches.
I took it upstairs and tested it on my PC…three of the face buttons wouldn’t register. Upon opening and testing the connections at three different points with a piece of wire, testing the solidarity of the solder points…I couldn’t find anything that pointed to faulty wiring. So, I guess after searching the forums I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s the PCB that broke.
ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHH. Three buttons, though?!?!? If it was one or two I could have at least re routed the LT and RT buttons. I guess my next project will involve gutting it and replacing the PCB with a Mad Catz.
I have an excellent full and detailed guide on how to mod a Hori EX2 from scratch - if anyone wants it please just ask. Send me an email address and I will whizz it over to you. It is very detailed but there is a section which relates purely to wiring a PCB and fitting buttons - I think this may solve the problems discussed here.
I seem to be reading a lot of these Hori EX2 horror stories recently. I literally just received my EX2 today (my first stick) but I’m really hesitant on opening it now and I’m considering returning it since these seem to have a pretty high failure rate or something. Would a SF4 Fightpad be a better investment over the Hori EX2?
No the HORI EX2 is straight forward to mod - what exactly are you planning to do it?? If it’s just a straightforward Sanwa switch in/ out job then just stick with it. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, I have a full detailed guide that will help you. It is a word doc so cannot post as a thread. Just ask if you want it.
Well switching out the stick/buttons won’t help with the suicidal pcb it seems to have right
It’s only suicidal if handled inappropriately - just be careful and gentle with it, take it nice and slow and you will be fine - trust me !!
Oh I wasn’t referring to the modding process, rather the longevity of the pcb itself which is being discussed in this thread. I would need to go break open a 360 controller every time it crapped out then.
Why don’t you just do a full mod?? Buy a second hand XBOX 360 pad for 5 quid, rip the guts out of it, get some Sanwa button and a JLF and wire the whole thing up in one go - it will last forever.