Sync strike strips the raw sync from a composite video source, which is what SCART uses to sync (basically all SCART TVs have an internal “sync strike” so to speak). You won’t need to do anything to the sync if you feed it raw sync. I’ve seen in some places that the image is slightly improved by using raw sync (maybe there’s a little bit of interference and the sync stripper isn’t perfect, I dunno) but I haven’t looked enough to see how much of a difference, if any.
Alright. If there’s no real significant (or noteworthy, for that matter) gain I think I’ll just end up going with the cable then. Seems a bit easier on the setup end. Much thanks for the quick answer!
Kick ass! Someone used the guide!
you only need to clean the sync for SNES and Genesis not for the saturn and both adapters do the same thing get which ever one is cheaper for you
What RosserRooster said. ↑
Hrm. So, the parts arrived and I got them all pieced together. Powered the scaler with a 12V AC adapter I found out in my storage closet, and I am using the cable I linked earlier. (As opposed to a SyncStrike) Currently I have it set to 1024x768, since when I tried 13## x 768 my TV (1080p capable, for the record) complained about an incompatible signal. The scaler itself is using “RGBS” for input.
My Saturn, is running like a champ. Vampire Savior (in particular, among others) is running great. While I realize there’s no such thing as a 0 lag scaler, it’s running fast enough for me to not notice any particular slowdown.
The PS2 on the other hand, has been nothing but trouble. =( The cable definitely works and is providing signal, since I can get to HDLoader (dead disc drive on the PS2) with no problems and boot games just fine with full visuals. I checked the PS2 settings, and it’s even automatically setting to RGB on display output. So it works fine until the screen is remotely graphically intense. Guilty Gear XX causes the signal to go haywire (the picture starts going all over the place with artifacts) as soon as the intro. Mega Man X8 runs into issues as soon as “too much” is happening on the screen, and King of Fighters 2002UM had issues right away as well.
All in all, not sure what the exact problem is here. The PS2 cable does seem to work since i’m getting proper display in the first place, it’s just extremely prone to freaking out and making me wonder if something is misconfigured. I realize this is a rather vague description, but I was wondering if there’s anything obvious I may be missing.
Well it’s interesting, I saw that the picture quality took a small hit I couldn’t stand so I switched it over to component. Truthfully unless you don’t have a PS3 to play to play PS1 games in all you lose by just going straight up component is MegaMan X Collection. And it’s a good game and all but if you really had Mega Man X hankering you could switch it back just for that.
In short: Go straight component. It’s a better idea. Play PS1 on PS3. For Mega Man X collection you can either go composite (yuck) or go do the whole “putting it through the scaler” thingy.
Just re-read a page ago and am declaring myself an idiot. I’d completely spaced/zoned/ignored(?) the previous page regarding 5V being the magic amount in your case, Smash. I’d been using a 12V due to the board itself being labelled “5-12V”. Going to see if I can find a 5V and test with that.
Hrm. Only confusing part then is why the Saturn has no problems being scaled at 12V if that is the case. =\
Actually man if it says 5-12 you’re good to go.
Mine just said 5. Hence I needed to find one that just said 5.
Check for some text on the scaler, mine says 5V. If yours says 5-12V your 12 should do it just fine.
I use 12v with mine. The board is rated for 5v-12v, so no worries there. You could potentially have a bum adapter that is pushing too much through the unit, but that is pretty unlikely.
Have you tried leaving the PS2 on YPbPr rather than forcing RGB? Reason I ask is that I’ve done extensive testing with this scaler with a PS2 using official Sony component cables, and haven’t had a single issue like you’re describing. I’m not saying it’s not happening, just that you’re going to need to get into the step-by-step process to eliminate potential issues. The only thing I can think of based off the available information is screen flashes, where there are bright flashes during gameplay. The scaler chip has some pretty severe issues keeping sync with full screen flashes (if you have a copy of Tempest X3, it’s a great example).
So are you using component cables to send RGB? Because that’s RGB SOG (Sync On Green) which is sorta specialized. You’ll need a SCART cable and a sync stripper.
This, except you can skip the need for an RGB SCART cable/sync stripper with the PS2 on the cheapo scaler; just set the PS2 output to YPbPr because that’s what the scaler is looking for on those component jacks.
Alright, first and foremost: I’m using this rgb scart cablecombined with this rgbs cable to get the PS2 signal to my scaler. Using the RGBS cable as other peeps said it should perform exactly the same as a sync strike. I’m not using any component cables in the PS2 setup. While I could (and it would possibly negate this issue), I’d like to use the equipment I currently have. I’ve tried setting the output to YPbPr, which just ends up making a green tint on the screen. As a result, the system is set to output in RGB.
The reason I brought up the 5V was due to pretty much all instructions I can find online specifying the port as a 5V input. (Even though the board is marked 5-12V) It had me wondering if it was possibly a mislabelling. I’ll assume this is not the case. I’m also told that the power supply should be 2A, and I think mine is running at less than 1. I could see this being the issue as well, but not sure then why the Saturn would work just fine.
Thanks a bunch for the help guys. Tis greatly appreciated, and hopefully I can get this resolved sooner than later.
It does not matter ps2 or 3 same cable
but either way he already has a set
Oh… DUH! Good call. My mistake.
After mulling this over for months I ended up getting a Hama 100S for SCART splitting. It has a neat unintentional (?) feature. You can simultaneously depress all three inputs, effectively making it an automatic switch. This will have it automatically display whichever console is powered on. Obviously it gets wonky if multiple consoles are powered at once but otherwise I found this useful. I do not experience any degradation of picture quality with this either.
Wow, I didn’t think anyone read this after it got dropped to page 8 billion but cool! You say this works as an automatic switch as WELL as a way to split SCART? Got a link to the product? Thanks for sharing! Finding those Madcatz ones are a bitch.
Here’s what I bought:
And here’s what he sent:
I would not recommend the first seller as he obviously sends different products than what are listed and it took about a month to arrive. Normally I get packages from the UK in a week or so.
Well one is for a cable, one is for a switch and the one he sent looks identical to the one you got.
In fact I recognize it from the FAQ in the first post as one the guy there recommends.
Good find honestly, those are HARD to come by.