Hey @zeththedarkmage, @bencao74,
Would you mind sharing the template with me in any format (pds , pdf, etc). I just want to somehow know where to use the drill.
Thank you very much
Have a great day
here are some pictures of my HitBox thanks to bencao74
http://www.abload.de/thumb/hitbox1sdmn.jpg http://www.abload.de/thumb/hitbox24fxt.jpg http://www.abload.de/thumb/hitbox3qd6i.jpg
reaper2507, how did you handle the wiring job? Solder and daisy chain together for a common ground or any other method?
i just used a old SE Fightstick Platine a guy give me for free (the SE stick was crap anyway) and then sopen the microswitches remove the āorgansā and solder cable to them and ducktaped the platine on the faceplate
so its a easy OPEN TE remove old Face insert new one for anybody without soldering knowledgeG
Is there a cammy player here with a hitbox? How are the TKCS to execute on this stick?
Easy as pie. I donāt play Cammy at all, but I can hammer 'em out pretty easily. The normal TKCS is a bit goofy at first, but very doable.
i would say the hitbox is fine AS LONG AS you dont need 720 a stick is much faster with theseg
Iām doing my best to get these vids up before Christmas. They will demonstrate the 720. Later Iāll follow up with a tutorial on the piano roll and the fastest ways to utilize the motions. My problem lately is time; Iām 1000 places at once.
This will sound crazyā¦ but read on!
Iām thinking of placing Left, Down, and Right directly under the KKK buttons, the UP direction would be similar to where it is on the the hitbox in the picture above. so my right hand would have access to all 10 buttons. Iāll give the other hand 10 buttons as well. (2 sets of everything). i would like to use the smallest buttons possible, and have all 10 buttons for each hand as close together as possible. i tested this out by putting a large book in my lap, and then placed down 20 U.S. quarters, n slid them around till i came across this setup. so farā¦ this is looking amazing!
the benifits would beā¦
-if quarter circleās, dpās etcā¦ are hard in reverse, or on player 2 side. just switch hands (no awkward reverse piano-ing)
-having 2 sets of directional keys would allow you to preform complex motions easily n quickly, by having the freedom to use all of your fingers, or just your 2 thumbs
(each thumb can slide back and forth over the directional buttons)
-the ability to alternate hands for any series of inputs on either directional keys, or punch keys
-having an extra set of punches/kicks, means you could mash Medium punch with both hands, super fast, or double tap, double plink, to nail tight links
-slide your hand back and forth over all 20 buttons to get out of dizzyās in an instant
heres a couple of character examples (player 1 side)
-C.Viper forward super jump instant burn kick ā¦ do the burn kick (Down Back) motion with either hand, then press Up + Forward with opposite hand.
-Guile plink Ultraā¦ hold Left with left hand, plink Right with right hand, then hit 3P with left hand
-Gen Medium kick Hands, press MK with left hand, slide right index finger back and forth, or his hands can be two hand pianoād, double tapped, etcā¦
-Gen Kara Stance Changeā¦tap focus with one hand, then immediately tap 3P, or 3K with the other (almost impossible with 6 buttons)
-Makoto instant axe kick, or Ken Instant air hurricane, Up Forward with one hand, Down Back with the other
the list gos on n on!
try setting coins up on a book or table, to experiment with this
hopefully this wonāt look to jumbled, this is the idea though
Oā¦Oā¦Oā¦O
Oā¦Oā¦Oā¦Oā¦Oā¦O
<ā¦Vā¦Oā¦Oā¦Vā¦>
ā¦>ā¦<ā¦
ā¦^ā¦^ā¦
This sounds a little to out there. Mostly because I (and Iād hope others believe this too) is that less is more in the case of the number of buttons you need to think about. having 10 buttons for each finger would require a LOT of muscle memory that could be avoided just by keeping the direction and attack buttons dedicated to their own hands. If you really want to continue pursuing that design though I suggest you actually build one via arthongās TE plexi creator or something of the like.
Edit: Also, how about the ultimate in circle challenges, Tagerās 1080 motion for his Astral. Iād love to see the HitBox pull that off!
Yeah thanks, Itās all just theory right now, I donāt plan to build anything just yet. But thereās potential (A 1080 could be pulled off in a blink :P).
BTW guyāsā¦ if you have a Hitbox, try putting a piece of strong plastic bag material (like a tough zip-lock bag) over the buttons, just cut out a large square (maybe 7" x 12") sheet, and tape it down around the buttons. Itāll allow you to slide out half-circles, n Honda hands, Blanka electricity, etcā¦with ease, and itāll keep your buttons clean.
IF anybody dont get it yet hes making funā¦ 
actualy i think the hitbox is a nice idee
i wish there where the posibility to build RADIOBUTTON style for UP/Down LEFT/RIGHT g without removing the button reaktiontime LOL
I finally got mine done as well and I am pretty pleased with the outcome. It was a bit labourious getting those holes into the metal, but not too bad. The only other problem I had was placing the microswitches somewhere inside and actually how to mount themā¦ I finally decided to go with modelling putty. Should workā¦ ^^
Playing with it is fun and works pretty well.
The only thing left is to make some artwork with Akuma and Juri in it. Not sure how long this will take, since I havenāt got experience witih PS yetā¦
http://img2.imagebanana.com/img/1t97k6n5/thumb/MyHitbox02.jpg
http://img2.imagebanana.com/img/umc5zbrd/thumb/MyHitbox03.jpg
Oh!
That is a cool placement.
I like how the :u: key is angled now.
Might try this on my SE, too.
Maran, Howād you drill those holes in the metal panel of the SE? I think the SE is a perfect size for a hitbox. Iād love to drill holes like that in an SE but Iād move the directional buttons about a half inch higher.
After playing a bit Iād like to have those buttons somewhat higher than they are, but the reason I chose this arrangement is due to the already existing hole for the joystick, which is actually the perfect size for a 24 mm button. Going halve an inch higher would mean having some part of the original hole there without a button. Maybe with 30 mm buttons it would work but then again there might not be enough space. And much higher aint possible as well because of the part of the turbo control pcbā¦ (that I dont need and Iād rather use that space for something elseā¦).
Therefore I chose to use the existing hole and give the box some special touch with the bigger button at an angle, which works fine, but more or less only for the left hand.
As for drilling those holes: First I drilled a hole with quite a big drill for metal, which went well enough. Its quite hard but manageable. Then, since I dont own a dremel tool, with the same drill machine and a rough textured grinding head I widened the whole. It does take some time and the hole might end up not completely round but you can do the finishing touches with less power and a smooth grinder. The last step is using a file and just smoothing down the edges.
Definitely doable! 
g or you just buy yourself a hole driller with 24mm ^^
Yep, that might help, but since I did not find one with that size at the local store and also wasnāt willing to pay additional money this worked as well.
One thing I forgot to mention: I fastened the faceplate on a wooden board an actually drilled it as well. Helped stabilizing everything.
donāt know if seriousā¦
One thing I thought of just nowā¦ Is there a micjack for the 360 versions of these? I play with friends over XBL a lot and Iām always using my mic, itād be a shame to get one of these and not be able talk to the guys Iām playing with.
I suppose if not I could just get a wireless mic, but it would be nicer to not have to buy a new mic since mine works just fine. If I do end up having to I will though, not a huge deal.