I’ve ordered a seimitsu ls-32-01, ls-40-01 and a Hori hayabusa sticks for my madcatz TE2 (xbone red black). As well as kowal actuators, 2lbs and 4lbs springs plus ss and se plates.
So the ls-32-01 and ls-40-01 with flat plate should fit the TE2 without problems correct? Or must i use the se plate?
The issue is with the 5pin should i put the 5pin the same way as with the stock jlf or as some say flip the 5pin then connect?
What about the hayabusa connect the 5pin the same as with the stock jlf or flip it around?
Lastly does the hayabusa stick accepts kowal 1mm actuator if not which one does?
Tried searching for answers but no luck…
Your help is much appreciated.
The 32 and 40 will need the S plate, the levers will be super short otherwise. You will need to flip the 5 pin connection with the Seimitsu levers, but not the Hayabusa. The Kowal will work with the Hayabusa, but you may need to round the upper edge of the larger cylinder to prevent it from snagging on the stock square gate.
Followed your recommendations and they all work thank you Camacho
Indeed the other plate made the levers super short.
However unlike the Sanwa plate which needs 4 screws i had to only use 2 screws on the Seimitsu ones is this normal? Tried to turn the S plate 90 degree in order to use 4 screws but then one screw hole interferes with the 5pin connector on the LS-32…
Coming from gamepads then to a Hori Fightstick Mini 4 and now Madcatz TE2.
I noticed the following:
Stock Sanwa JLF good stick but loose compared to the Hori mini 4 and the “throw” is definitely larger then the sticks i tried but among all sticks the stock Sanwa JLF is the most quiet of them all.
Seimitsu LS-32-01 can’t tell since i only tested it out but one thing i noticed is its shorter “throw” had a good feeling with the LS-32-01 even though it was short, but is nr-1 in regards of noise definitely the loudest.
and i experienced the “bump” sometimes as others mentioned before but did not impair my executions.
Seimitsu LS-40-01 WOW this one felt straight away NICE! really solid stick! Shortest “throw” and all my moves came out smooth far less input (less movement needed with my pols/fingers) needed to do specials etc which i do like.
Hori Hayabusa did not tested it yet to tired will do tomorrow.
Im a bit at a loss here the poster above says one needs to perhaps round the upper edge of the Kowal actuator i presume you did not do that and had no issues. Perhaps not all Hayabusa sticks are made equally? One stick Hayabusa needs the actuator be modded while another Hayabusa does not need it correct?
90 degree rotation with the S-plate is correct, but you need to remove the pcb before screwing it in.
The jump in the LS32 is inherent in the design, if it’s jumping on you that’s a good indicator that you should use less force
Darksakul is not a fan of the kowal actuator, doubt he has installed one in a Hayabusa. If you feel it snagging, round it like I said. If not, great, don’t worry about it.
And I doubt you have any idea what you are talking about.
Leave the snide comments out of this.
See that wider bottom “bell” area, see the edge the top and how its a very sharp edge.
Sand that down so it’s round and smooth. That way that Edge does not snag on the Hayabusa Gate.
Said said, I an not a fan of the Kowal Actuator
It is shape completely different then the Hayabusa and Sanwa JLF Actuator, their “bell” is slopped so the actuator hits the switch plungers dead on instead of an angle As the Actuator is already at a angle from the shaft pivoting. The Kowal Actuator is actually shaped wrong.
Yes, very snide of me to say that a) you’re not a fan of the actuator (which you make well known) and b) I suspected you were unlikely have installed one in a hayabusa on account of not liking it.
Followed your advise in removing the pcb from the LS-32-01 (thanks for pointing this out to me) which was far more easy then expected just little time consuming that’s all, in order to use all 4 screws.
Tried the Hori Hayabusa this one is i don’t know i noticed my qcf motions aren’t consistent but overall i do like it im thinking it needs some time getting used to it as others have done and then it is a blast.
For now i switched back to Seimitsu LS-32-01 and its on my top 2 together with the Seimitsu LS-40-01 my qcf motions are consistent and overall the “throw” is so good on these sticks love it!
I will try to use less force in order to bypass the “bump” on the LS-32.
I do noticed a bit more “throw” on the Hayabusa stick compared to the Seimitsu ones. I did order 3 Kowal 1mm actuators should be here by Monday together with different lbs springs. Im going to grind the sharp edges just as you recommended it with the Kowal actuator and see if its going to get better. I do hope so its a nice stick but for now i do like the Seimitsu more.
Well guy’s you both have been of great help to me thank you again. And have a nice day.
I ask you to keep those comments to your self. I suggest you drop the issue now, and I forget this exchange.
Just because I differ in opinion does not mean I never used it. And do not presume you know anything about me.
If anything I could accuse you of being presumptuous and a shameless shrill.
You do really go out of your way to push Kowal products and the ZD PCBs to a point I suspect you are getting paid under the table to promote them.
Then launch baseless attacks on anyone who dares say different.
Alright my items came in including the “Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK Silent v2” stick if i play at night i don’t want to bother my neighbours so i installed it and well…it’s so loose some of my combo and strings are really hard to pull of its just takes to much movement from the stick. It does feel like a quality product. And its sooo silent! Still figuring out whats the best stick for me better to play 2 days with each stick then decide.
I read some stories that the Kowal 1mm actuator is not compatible with the Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK is this true or false? If true what can i do in order to make it perform like the stock Sanwa JLF with a Kowal 1mm actuator? Should i grind the sharp edges as well with the Kowal actuator as proposed in order to get it work on the Hayabusa?
I learned never to buy Sanwa snap ins pretty much all got destroyed (6 of 8) by swapping them with a color Sanwa snap in i like. Those plastic spring/notches man such brittle design…Going to order screw ins from now on ive seen they fit nicely in a TE2 stick.
Haven’t used the silent model, JLF, can’t help you there. Though it’s worth mentioning that the same thing that quiets it down (the different switches) will inherently change its feel.
Silent model uses a slightly bigger actuator because the differences with the Omron D2RV over the regular Omron switches, the D2RV’s use a shorter plunger.
People who modded their JLF’s with their own D2RV switches found they need the 1.0 oversize Actuator from Kowal or Paradise Arcade.
They might catch, but I didn’t put a Kowal Actuator with a any of the Variation of the Silent JLF.
So not that the Kowal wouldn’t work, it most likely should, you just not see too much of a difference due to the actuators being similar size.
Sanwa Snap-ins are intend for just straight installs with not much consideration into part swapping.
As in the arcades, replacing a button usually means the old one failed and you don’t need to salvage it.
haven’t tried an oversize actuator, but after recently picking one of these levers up i was feeling the same as you. popped in a 2lb spring and it feels faaaaaantastic personally (its become my fav now) so if you can, give a heavier spring a try. it made the neutral feel more distinct and helped me find where the actuation point is on the tilt.
for whatever reason, the batch and/or install method MadCatz used for the TE2s left me with broken snap buttons after swapping them out (on 3 different TE2s!!!) so i wouldn’t swear off sanwa snap ins, but just know that you aren’t alone in the set it comes with being broken
