I just got a Happ p360 yesterday to swap out my iL Euro stick. After I assembled the p360 the spring kept popping. So I swapped springs from the iL Euro. I liked the tension, however the spring pop was really bad. I swapped back to the original p360 spring, but not before trying out Kowals p360 spring mod I found on youtube.
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Now my spring is popping worse than before. I think I must have screwed up some where. Maybe when I assembled the spring–>spring cover or I jacked up the spring during the mod (looks fine I actually barely change it aesthetically)…but the iL Euro spring popped pretty bad as well:wtf:…
…I digress, it’s late and my blood sugar is low…I appreciate any help or input.
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it is pivot not spring, this bug is on every wico spring action base with cocical pivot joystick and P360
Suzo stick have the same bug:/
sometime change spring help (differ joystick or differ side the same spring) or not work worse, you must test it
but is still pivot problem work how trigger on gun and bring forward crack on spring
on wico this bug is easy to fix electric tape or plastic tape on sfaft
on P360 pivot is too small for base (hard too fix - only new pivot, and suzo problem) and too wide for shaft - tape fix it
I now have the pivot nice and tight-not moving at all. It helped, but I’m still having the cracking issue. I also flipped over the spring, that helped a bit as well.
I’ve been reading your old posts on other forums and can see that there are other potential issues, like the actuator. Is this still the case?
The articulator can be a bit of a bastard sometimes, since it can cause friction. A better design would be one that does not have the “T-shape.” The only reason it’s shaped like that is for the optional 4-way operation if you flip it over, but the 4 way sucks anyway so there’s no reason to have it. If you have the means to shave down your articulator to a cylinder that will probably help.
I tweaked on old actuator mod pic to further illustrate what I think you’re saying…
Is it possible to only shave down part of the top of the T-shape so that way the spring can still hold the articulator in place? I believe if I shave the “T” down to an “l” then the l would go straight to pivot.
it is complex bug in construction (pivot, actuator, washer for spring)
pivot fix is easy and solwed 70% problem I test it on WICO Conical with improved actuator 30pcs, WICO old P360 2pcs,and P360 6pcs all stick all have problem with pivot sometimes (2/10) with washer for spring, on P360 washer problem can be solwed higher actuator + 1mm (18,5mm) W/O 4way diameter on actuator best make new with diameter 13,7mm you get better diagonals
and groove help too, on metal panel groove friction is smaller but spring is very very hard on this groove
foto all mod http://www.kowal.itcom.pl/ArcadeParts_pliki/joyHP360.htm
So looks like I need a new custom actuator: 13.7mm diameter and 18.5mm tall
I’ve fixed the inside of the pivot, like in the video, but still have issue with the outside like in this pic below. What did you do or use to fix this?
kowal used to back 06’, at least for custom actuators.
I’d definitely buy custom parts to make this problem go away.
If anyone has anything, hit me up.
Thanks to Kowal for figuring out the root of the problem long ago.
Went to Home Depot and found a nylon spacer (1/2x.375x5/8) that worked like a charm. Used electrical tape to make it fatter.
I also used the metal panel spacer that came with the p360 to create close to 19mm height.
You can also use a 1" long piece and cut it down to 3/4" (or close to 19mm). I chose the former method because no cutting was required.
Better diagnols, no pivot or spring problems now.
Hopefully the pictures tell the story. Photos might not load properly right now (photobucket sucks). There should be 4.
