I’ve been digging right in to Guile’s okizeme game for a few weeks now and am ready to see if an oki thread can survive in this fucking wasteland of a forum.
I’ll keep the first few posts updated with the results of any (hah) discussion and maintain links to videos for reference.
TOC
[list]
[] Flash Kick - this post
[] Burn Straight / b.hp
[] V-Reversal / f+ppp
[] Crouching HK / c.hk
[] Dragon suplex / f.throw
[] Judo throw / b.throw
[] Guile High Kick / df.hk
[] Swing Out / f.hp (target)
[] Flying Buster Drop / j.b.throw
[] EX boom / Tempest
[*] Critical Art
[/list]
TOOLASSISTED
THX 4 OKI TOOL LOL
Okizeme? (pre-requisite knowledge)
Yeah, okizeme. Or oki. The means by which you can apply pressure to your opponent on wake-up. When you knock your opponent down, they have 2 or 3 means of getting back up: KD, KDR, and KDBR: knock-down / no recovery, knock-down quick-rise / normal recovery, and knock-down back-recovery respectively. Good (strong) okizeme setups allow you to apply safe or advantageous pressure on their wake-up and is the result of trial-and-error or by studying frame data.
You should understand the above, have a basic grasp of how frames work in fighting games, be able to read frame data, and understand what “meaty” means.
So knock-down and press buttons? Why all this guff?
All of the oki setups I post or talk about here are frame-perfect meaties - last active frame where possible, but 3f safe on block (at worst). At any point that is appropriate, you can go off-book, but these setups will yield good frame advantage.
Bill’s oki game
Guile’s okizeme situation is interesting (well, to me it is as I only play Guile, so maybe everyone is built like this and I just don’t know it) in one primary way - there is a very clear set of precisely tuned tools that Woshige and co. have indicated we should use. Make no mistake - this shit is spooky.
I’ll be referring to these normals as “sets” based on how fast they activate - notice they naturally group together at:
[list]
[] 7f
[] 9f
[*] 12f
[/list]
You should interchange normals from the same set in order to vary your resulting options and advantage. Or use normals from a slower set for oki traps.
The normals in between those “magic” frame numbers tend to “slide” around in order to cover your more fuzzy options.
Note: most of Guile’s moves are active for 2 or 3 frames except for c.hp and b.lk - they’re both active for 5 frames and share the same oki space (frames 8 through 12).
FLASH KICK
Guile’s FK is a really subtle tool in this game - looking at the lk, mk, and hk versions only, they all add 1f delta to a number of properties which make them useful in different ways, yet they all have the same oki numbers (KD, KDR, KDBR). There is some fuzziness to the FK oki game based on how the FK hits. For ideal okizeme you want to connect with the first active frame - this will lead to frame-perfect okizeme setups 100% of the time. This, however, is not how Guile will always hit with FK, so knowledge of how to read the FK and adjust oki to suit is imperative.
Be aware: as far as I can tell, AA FK is a crapshoot, so all of your pressure is going to be manual. We can mitigate by using the right tools though.
1st active frame oki:
This is the foundation for Guile’s FK oki game. Learn this, then everything else is a delta.
KDR: +24f
Forward dash followed by s.mp is Guile’s best option here - and it’s ridiculous. Frame-perfect meatied s.mp is +5 on block, +6 on hit, +8 on counter-hit.
s.mp, s.lk, and c.mp all have the same last active frame, so are interchangeable options in this situation.
If you want to shift your response forward a few frames (leaving a small gap between wakeup and your 1st active frame), use: s.hp, s.mk, c,mk, or b.hp - these are Guile’s normals that sit between s.mp and the next slowest set.
Meaty throw:
KDBR: +29f
fk, KDBR, f.dash puts Guile at sufficient advantage that any normal which ends it’s active frames on 12 will be last frame meaty. There are four in that set:
[list]
[] b.lk
[] c.hp
[] f.hp
[] f.mk
[/list]
Additionally, they mostly recover on the same frame (the exception is f.mk which recovers 1f later). SPOOKY.
On block, sobat offers better advantage than bazooka (the best option is c.hp, but that only works in the corner):
In the corner, things get ugly:
Meaty throw:
Later than 1st active frame oki:
So, before getting into this, it pays to know a few things about how to use the FK properly.
Firstly, all FK’s have a period of full invulnerability.
Secondly, they’re all active for 12 frames.
Thirdly, grounded FK is the only place science exists - AA FK is tea-leaves and medicine woman territory.
If you’re combo’ing into FK, you should always use hk.fk - there’s no reason not to as its first active frame is the most forward of the 3. Outside of that, I prefer to use lk.fk as I find it easier to read the frame advantage I’m dealing with - YMMV.
There are 3 identifiable and reactable ways the FK can hit and you’ll use 4 different sets of tools to deal with the resulting chaos.
[list]
[] 1st frame discussed above
[] 1st airborne frame each FK is grounded for a number of frames (lk: 1-3, mk: 1-4, hk: 1-5 (these are also proj. invuln. frames)) - the first airborne active frame is the fk that looks like it hit your opponent in the head.
[] somewhere in-between the distance between the 1st active frame and the 1st airborne frame is shortest on lk.fk, so lk gives you the most control over frame advantage.
[] last frame is some magic “just clipped 'em” possibility - you should be able to tell visually.
[/list]
The effect of hitting with an active frame other than the first one is the same as a meaty - this is just a meaty without the wake-up component. Let us again look at the sets:
1st. AB FRAME KDR: ~+33f (3-5f added depending on FK button)
Consider first, the oki used for a 1st active frame FK: f.dash s.mp
As you can see above, the next slowest set would be: c.mk, s.mk, s.hp, b.hp
b.hp is my recommendation.
1st. AB FRAME KDBR: ~+38f
Here, options are limited to either s.hk or f.hk. Really, at this point, I’m just putting out a boom if I can get away with it.
In-between frame(s)
There’s a chance FK can hit on one of the frames between the first active frame and the first active airborne frame - as discussed above. In this scenario, we’re dealing with between 1 and 4 frames depending on which FK strength was used. Use the 1st active frame oki setups to build off: this will lead to things like s.hp/s.mk and b.hp for KDR, UDK and s.hk for KDBR.
last frame
Your options are limited and KD should probably just be eyeballed. Generally a dash forward and then feeling it out with tools like b.hp, s.hk, f.hp, and f.hk will be the order of the day.
Flash Kick Summary:
FK oki feels to me like the corner-stone of Guile’s overall oki game, but perhaps that’s because I started there.
Although I’ve not yet looked into what options might exist for AA FK, grounded FK oki is predictable and stable, given:
[list]
[] you use hk.fk where appropriate to ensure most consistent knock-down advantage
[] you know how to spot the 3+ different types of FK hit
[*] you can react to or consistently read KDR vs. KDBR
[/list]
