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<div class=“QuoteAuthor”><a href="/profile/86929/bimmyvandal">bimmyvandal</a> said:</div>
<div class=“QuoteText”>I just bought a HRAP V3 SA “like new” on ebay, and it works great, except the top Select button is nonfunctional (this I don’t mind so much, since there’s a Start/Select toggle for the Start button), and the slightest jostle causes the power to cut out momentarily. I haven’t opened the thing up to look at the USB connection, but the wire coming out of the box looks fine, and nothing seems to be loose or damaged externally. Has anyone else experienced connection issues with this model before? I can pop it open and take a picture if need be.</div>
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sounds like the USB cable might have a break and a wire is lose going to the select button.
Thanks for the reply, Darksakul, I guess I’ll just have to take a look inside, because “please reconnect controller” popping up in the middle of fights is really cramping what little style I have.
I have a full sanwa mod of a datel arcade pro joystick. Recently my X/A button connection stopped working. I checked if it was just the button or something in the microswitch but I swapped the same connection with another working button and it gets the same faulty response. Sometimes when I bend the USB cord it starts working in a moment but quickly stops again. I switched the USB cord too but same thing happend. Also when I hold the PS/Xbox home button and click on the A/X Button (Microswitch) It starts working. But I can’t off course hold down the home button all the time and i doubt it will work in any long period. Sometimes when I hit the X/A button fast and hard enough it will activate maybe once or twice per 30 seconds. I would be happy to get some advice of what the problem could be, thanks. Also thanks Darksakul for the previous help on this thread, it was really helpful!!!
I have a Paewang PCB and I’m trying to figure out how to wire a new USB cord to it. It has five connections instead if the regular four witch made me confused how to wire it. It has the regular four color wires plus another one that has no plastic protecting it. Also, it is possible to just cross the cables and just put electric/duck tape on without soldering
I want a serious help on my arcade stick .i bought a arcade stick hori v3 sa kai but problem is that it is not getting power on , what to do for this ??? Help me on this what are all the possibilites of the problem and how to fix it . Plz
It seems like Hori have been shipping out a lot of their HRAP V3 builds and SC5 sticks with dead motherboards. I got the chance to examine two myself last week - they were brand new but the main chip seemed dead when probed with a multimeter. Not a problem with the USB cable itself as I tried multiple different versions.
If your stick was new when you got it then return it for a refund. That’s all I can suggest outside of expensive modding.
If the stick was previously owned then try replacing the USB cable.
I need help on my hori fighting edge. I hope someone knows what to do I went to change my buttons then after I successfully did so I went to screw the faceplate back on but when I inserted the screws I heard a tinking noise come to find out a bolt fell from underneath that holds the screw this is my first stick and I just got it any idea on what to do?
Very nice job, Dark! Can I add a couple of comments, though?
Many USB Cables wind up with five wires at the device end because the manufacturer solders the cable shield to the board. It’s usually a thicker black wire (that’s what you’re seeing @mrwappaz). The discussion of why it’s there and whether or not it can be removed is long and boring and pedantic, but you can safely remove it and connect that point to the ground wire, or bundle up the shield and solder it down.
Buy a multimeter with continuity and learn to use it. There’s a tutorial in my sig, and you can get a decent one at Harbor Freight for like $5. (I know Dark mentioned this but I can never say it enough)
Nine times out of ten, it’s the cable. Always check the cable.
If you get a message like “Your USB device was drawing too much power”, that’s a short between power and ground.
All I need to work on is a theory of operation worded in such a way that is factual yet serves everyones needs.
Like For example I don’t need to get into Playstation controller protocol, but breaking down how a Neo Geo stick might work would be helpful.
Hi, my stick recently started having this weird issue. Actually it’s not so recent, but its resolved itself before somehow. I have a Hori real arcade pro EX. My joystick wouldn’t always respond when I’d try to move forward a couple months ago, but sometimes it would work for a couple days, and then stop working. It eventually stopped having this issue. Now a couple months later, it is inputting up(jump) two times like every couple times I jump and sometimes it’ll just delay the jump. Actually, when it does the double jump, it always inputs it much faster than I’d be able to manually input it. It’s a huge pain and makes it pretty much unplayable. I’d really rather fix it than by a new one. Any hints would be appreciated, thanks.
You need to get a multimeter and check inside for any breaks or loose wires.
Thanks, I’ll do that. gotta make a walmart trip i suppose
I have a quick question I have a PS3 VLX that i swapped the pcb out of and replaced with a vxsa pcb to get xbox connectivity,
everything has worked fine but now all the shoulder buttons are auto firing (rb lb rt lt) is there a fix for this or should I just try a different pcb?
I have a Hori RAP VX-SA and my 7 input on my joystick is being a bit wonky.
The 7 input will not register if I move my joystick from 8 to 7, but will register if I move from 4 to 7. Any ideas?
Doube check that button, open up the panel,
- make sure the quick disconnects are on there firm.
- (while the stick connected to a console or PC) Remove the quick disconnects from the button and touch the two metal parts of the disconnectes together, this will see if the wiring is good or not.
- if you have a multimeter check the wiring and the button (button should not conduct electricity unless its pressed)
Hey ya’ll.
So, a friend has a Qanba 360/PS3 stick modded with an xb1 padhack. Never had any issues with it until a couple days ago when I replaced the spring in the JLF and now the start button stays active when in PS3/360 mode (fine on xb1 mode cause the start button is wired to the Turbo button…no clue why the modder did that).
Long story short, I’ve confirmed (thanks to the friendly SRK FB group) that the PCB itself is at fault (disconnected the padhack and unplugged all but USB harness from the PCB and still registers as start being held down when plugged into PC).
I’m guessing I’m gonna have to swap it out with a PS360+ but before I commit to that, wanted to know if any of the veteran modders had any additional suggestions to salvage the PCB (cut start trace and connect directly to the chip or something crazy).
Thanks in advance!
Here are both sides of the PCB. Confirmed start button isn’t grounded via continuity test and confirmed none of the points on the bottom are bridged.
Hey guys,
I’m having an issue with directional inputs on my Eightarc stick. Almost everything works fine, but when I move the stick to the down-left (1) or down-right (3) positions, it inputs left (4) and right (6) respectively. Now, if I slide the stick a fraction right of 1 or left of 3, I get the correct inputs. Everything else works just fine, including 7 and 9. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Sounds like your down microswitch needs cleaned or replaced.
Awesome, thanks! I got in there and cleaned it all (looked like there was a spill on it :x) and everything seems to be back to normal. Thanks very much for the help!