Selling my Arcana Heart 2 HRAP that I only used for about a week or two. No marks or anything so this stick is mint and practically brand new. I love this stick, but I need cash. I’ve had this for over a year but it’s just been sitting in my room. Bought this brand new and swapped the parts. Buttons and ball top are all Sanwa. Plexi is from Art. Letting it go for 140 shipped in US.
It’s a nice-looking stick but that ball handle is definitely a 35mm Seimitsu red bubble top. One of the nicest colors for balltops, too!
I’ve got two of this stick but I liked the anime art too much to replace it!?
People looking for a PS2-compatible joystick should jump on this.
Good price for the mod features and it’s a rare white case with SA-like cap socket screws. In plain English, this is one of the few non-SA/SE model HRAP’s that lets you remove the faceplate! Way easier for mods and replacing worn out parts. Unfortunately, the joystick bracket is not universal but you can still use LS-56-01 (no flat plate necessary to my knowledge) and the LS-32-01/LS-40-01 with the LS-40-01 flat mounting plate. You can definitely make those sticks work with the base if you get shaft extends from eTokki.com …
I was just giving my honest assessment of that joystick.
AH2’s and Tekken 5’s are much easier to find than HRAP 2’s. While they don’t have universal mounts, it’s still possible to put more than a JLF in them. The T5 is particularly hard to put other sticks in UNLESS you remove that awful welded Hori mount that was never intended for other joysticks. It was pure luck that JLF’s fit it but even JLF’s perform better AFTER a mod. And you no longer have to unscrew the gate to swap it out after doing a faceplate mod! You have to essentially create a new mount using screws (I used extra self-clinching studs that I bought for an earlier Agetec mod). Even with that, I found some of drills were a little off-center and I had to physically mod my LS-40-01 flat plate to properly “grab” the screw threads. I’ve got to be one of a few people that have actually put something other than an LS-32-01 in the T5 stickbase. JLF’s are easy everything else is hard!
The AH2 stick is a somewhat more tractable nut to crack. The major weakness is definitely the PCB. It is harder to desolder without destroying it by heat and unless you’re only going to play AH2 it’s best to cross wires so that the button layout is more conventional. I never did like that ‘unique’ PCB button layout business behind the AH2 and Marvel Vs Capcom sticks. 95% of the fighters out there use the SF II button layout and it’s frankly more ergonomic than the unique button layouts for the Mortal Kombat and Virtua Fighter games!