Thanks buyproduct, that solved my problem, it’s working 100%!
And thanks Gummo for uploading the diagram, helped me clean up the board.
I don’t think you are understanding me correctly, or the instructions.
Wire 1A on the inverter to the RT BUTTON and 6A to the LT BUTTON.
The RT and LT pcb points should not be going to 1A and 6A. They go to 6Y and 1Y.
Basically for LT you have 1 wire going from the LT contact on the PCB to 6Y and then a separate wire going from 6A to your button. That last one would be your signal for LT and then you can get ground from where ever you are getting ground for the other buttons.
…I feel like a goddamn idiot lol
ok a friend came over and I used his iphone to snap two pics. one of the imp and the other pic of the hori pad. Sorry as these pics are the best I can do.
Imp
Hori pad
just repeating myself, everything on the hori side works in regards to buttons. When switching to ps360+ I have to hold down 1P button to force it to ps3 mode and every button works except RT-LT. Measured the screw terminals on ps360+ for RT-LT and multimeter is showing 1.036v on both
It happens man. Don’t worry about it.
Just got a mini and cleaning it up. Desoldering always pisses me off. my 15 watt with a nice tip is fine for soldering, but not desoldering.
And the 40w I have has a jacked up tip thats all blackened and doesnt want to tin. So I rockked the trigger switches till they popped off.
I use an old analog multimeter and from what I can see the Lows on LT and RT have 0 resist to ground.
Is this normal? 1 looks like it may have gotten close to a ground, but wouldnt explain the other side.
Im waiting on an order of inverters, just looking to prep the pad up a little first.
@Gummo
I have a question man. So I have the hori Xbox one pad wired up and its not working properly with the 360 te PCB. Its just the trigger right trigger to be exact that is causing the issue. When its wired on the right trigger on the barrier strip (so that it matches the same layout and dont need to remap) it actually works fine on Xbox one mode. But when I switch it over to 360 mode and hit the right trigger on the 360 it doesn’t activate. I looked up on the computer to check the input and its always having right trigger pressed down on the 360.
Can you point me as to why this is?
Slight follow up to earlier,
I already removed the pot’s for the LT and RT on a mini.
I opted to use this in my 6 button stick instead of TE, so I definitely wont need the Triggers.
With the pots gone, will it still work or do I need to invert it? Will they be stuck pressed?
Inverters should be coming in today so I will do that in general anyways, just wondering.
I seen it go both ways, it really depends on the board.
When I plugged into PC, the bar for the triggers was still in the middle so maybe a good bet.
Worst case I guess I could connect my regular pad, bind the keys up, leave triggers blank if an option and then connect the stick and see what happens.
Sadly looks like both the triggers are stuck on now. Keeps trying to page up and down in the menus.
I had actually ripped those pots off so not a possibility to put them back.
Is there something I can do with some resistors to just disable it?
Can I do something like 10k resistor from high to trigger and trigger to low, similar to fix for analog sticks?
Did you get the inverter? It will take care of it once It’s inverted and has the resistors. I also always remove the entire trigger mechanism including the pods and all works well once I invert them.
Nah, inverters got delayed, yay.
I did get it working. for one I used an xacto to scrape some plastic away to expose the original legs and solder a wire on. that worked for a little while. But I was able to measure the high to LT was about 1-2k ohms (using ooooold 10+ year radio shack analog multimeter) and the LT to low was about 50 ohms.
I went to my box of misc crap and found a 1.5k and 48 ohm. Put em in and it worked.
So LT has 3 little ethernet cat6 wires coming out into the original pot, and the RT has 2 resistors with full long uncut legs.
When inverters come, Ill do that.
So mini still just needs 2x 10k then?
Of course now it seems 2 of my sanwas dont always pop back up when I press them.
I guess carefully pop the plugs and clean with dish detergent?
I’m gonna assume the pin out is the same for the ps4 version of the pad?
The 6 face buttons, no.
Do you have the pin out for that Then? I’m gonna buy one from a friend that didn’t like it and I don’t wanna fudge anything up
So my Radio Shack near me that was going out of business had a bag of 5 inverters that was on closeout for $1.25 for the bag, but only one of them is a an 74XX04 or 74XX14 inverter, but could I use any 74XXXX inverter so long as I matched the pinout of the original schematic?
Only one of those chips is an inverter. The other chips are different. Like one of them is an OR gate chip and another is an AND gate chip.
well that sucks. The $1.25 was still cheaper than I bought a single one for locally before this anyway so I guess nothing is lost. Now I’ll just need to find a use for the rest of them lol.
so would anyone what my ps360+ problem is? why it will not autodetect and why the RT-LT buttons are always on when they are not “always on” when switching to the hori xbox one pad? both gnd and 5v is connected between hori pad and ps360+ and the imp is setup accordingly to the basic setup instructions.