I don’t mind soldering these together and what not, but I’m really terrible at/have no experience with building enclosures. I want to throw together two of these to use with a supergun, does anyone have suggestions on an enclosure I can buy made that would fit my needs? I want to use this kit to cut down on costs. Alternatively, if someone wants to build a couple for me I’d gladly pay them 
You can just use regular RadioShack Project boxes for enclosures for them. That’s what I’ve done.
I recommend a fat ps2 case—for the whole supergun that is—if you can find a non-working one for cheap since they already have the controller connectors and power switch
Finally, got around to working with some of these new ones. Button re-mapping was a breeze 
I did accidentally do lp mp hp lk mk hk a couple of times—that just seems like a more natural ordering imo. And while I’m being picky… the vast majority of psx sticks will use R1/R2 for hp/hk. It would be nice to have a command (select + lp for 5sec?) to quickly reset to this default (with L1/L2 disabled) in a tournament. Overall, I really like the logic of this setup because you don’t have to actually have the button on your stick to map something to it. That was my only gripe with the re-map on the upcb. So, thanks a lot for implementing this.
On a related note, I’m having trouble with my 2p side of a cps2 supergun using this FWG. I know it’s a problem on my end because I’ve tried swapping FGW chips and get the same problem, but I’m hoping Toodles can help me troubleshoot it. When holding down a button or direction, the input will drop for a moment. If I hold down multiple buttons, they all drop simultaneously for that moment. I observed this both in the cps2 input test mode and at the FGW board with a meter (voltage twitched from low to high and back). The FGW is being powered at 5.0v continuously, which does not fluctuate at the FGW. Oh, and I tried ps1 dual shock (dual-modded with 360 pad) and sony ps2 pad.
You could wire it up so you could do it that way if you like.
I dont understand what you’re trying to describe. The lines are supposed to drop when the buttons are pressed.
Oh, I see what you mean
And by “drop” I meant loss of registered input (voltage goes high), sorry. So, I hold down some buttons and observe the voltage is low for awhile but then will spike high for a moment and go back low, all the while I’m holding the buttons.
After more testing, I’m finding a consistent controller effect: most of what I’m trying works fine, but the trouble I was having before is related to a few specific pads. One is a DS1 and the other is a DS2. Both of these work fine on ps2 and on pc via adapter, so I’m not sure what’s going on. I tried both of them on 2 different widget/supergun setups and with 2 different sets of chips pre/post button config. I suppose just quirky pads, but if you’re interested in checking it out, I can send one to you.
If its the same problem with both, could I buy one off you or trade for it? I wouldnt mind looking at it but damned if I know when I’ll have the time to.
I’ll just donate it, and it’s fine whenever you get to it.
I had a quick question regarding wiring one of these to work with a supergun. The JAMMA harness I got has all 4 +5v pins connected into the same wire for the power supply. I was under the impression that I need to get power to the board somehow and I’ve already soldered both converters with a pinout that includes VCC. Am I going to have to tap this wire/solder another onto the pin group or do I not actually need it?
I dont think I understand your question. The VCC point on the converter needs to be connected to a +5v source, such as the +5v pins on the Jamma harness, or the power supply that is most likely also powering the +5v Jamma pins. GND needs to be connected to Ground; that could be one of the ground pins on the Jamma harness, or a ground pin on the power supply.
Yeah I was mostly just making sure that was the case. The only issue is that my harness doesn’t make it easy for me to do so, all 4 +5V pins are soldered together into 1 wire intended for the power supply. I’m just trying to figure out the cleanest way to do so.
Wondering if it would be possible to do stick an FGW and a board like a MCC into an HSS-0136.
You mean like an up-to-date replacement for the Saturn->DC converter found in the DC version? Sure.
Yeah. I figure it would be the best way to retail all the functionality of the original PCB.
I think Toodles is about to retail you some functionality, right now.
-ud
Lol! I mean retain, but yes, retailing functionality would be nice… if I had money.
I need some help debugging a couple of controller converters. This is going to be a long post so I can give as much information as possible.
I just built a supergun (as a few of you have already helped me with, thanks!) and something in the controller chain isn’t working. I’ll list out the chain first, explain what I’ve tested and then what’s going wrong.
2 sticks (1x TE-S Kitty, 1x vanilla MC Cthulhu, no dual mod)
2 rj-45 to PSX cables
2 FGW controller converters (female PSX to female 2 row DB-15 solder cups)
2 male DB-15 solder cups
JAMMA harness + kick harness going to cps2 board/psu/video encoder
Take away controllers and everything starts up, so the PSU, video/power parts of the harness, and video encoder are all good. I get an image on my monitor and all is well. I tested both sticks with both rj-45 to psx cables on a ps2 and they worked fine.
When I plug everything together, both converters get power to the stick just fine, as is proven by the guide lights and button LEDs on the Kitty stick functioning properly. The issue is, no button seems to work as “select” which should be insert coin. I’ve wired (or at least intended to wire) everything straight forward so as to not need to worry about button mapping. That is, I took the layout of the first six buttons on a PS3 TE and wired those directly to the defaults for LP, MP etc. I don’t really know where to start debugging this thing. I can post pinouts, pictures, and whatever else may be needed to help shine some light on the situation. Any tips on where to start would be great. Thanks!
EDIT: It’s also worth noting that I used a completely custom pinout since I was building it from scratch so I more or less based it on the proximity of the solder holes on the converters to the db-15 female solder cups I used.
Do you have a meter to check voltages? There’s nothing special about the coin switch; it’s just like 1p, 2p, etc, on the jamma harness. It’s right next to “start” iirc. More details/pictures describing what you did would be helpful.
Yeah, I’ve got a meter. All I’ve double checked is that I’m getting 5V across VCC and GND of both players coming off the JAMMA harness because I’m not sure what else I can check to diagnose it. I didn’t mean anything special about the coin switch itself, but without inserting a coin, I can’t test any of the other buttons so it’s impossible for me to tell if anything else is wrong. I do think there’s gotta be something else going on though since I’m getting power all the way through to the stick and the fact that no buttons are acting as select makes me think it’s not just a wire in the wrong spot in one of the soldering cups. I’ll post some more details and some pictures in the morning as I’m about to get to sleep.