@pennylane
Thanks for the info, i skipped ahead when reading the pdf about connecting the resistors and capacitors. Yeah i have a extension or 2 laying around, benefits of working at funcoland back in my days was people abandoning items.
So this what I have so far in terms of wiring i know its not 100% but then again im not the greatest at this, So if you see any mistakes or such please give me some input, only think im not 100% on is where to i get the power for the FGW to run? Btw i got the saturn wire colors from another site so they might be wrong in terms of color. What do i do with the loose pin/wire on the extension, solder to the blank or just leave it be?
The colors I have are different than what you have. I’d double-check with a multi-meter, as the correct colors could easily vary between different brands of extension cables.
Also, you have to wire the VCC and GND of the FGW Converter to the Brook board. I used the 5V LED VDD on the Brook board. I don’t know if the 3.3V VDD would work.
I think SFV actually uses the touchpad button, so I’d wire that and Share just for completeness.
Okay, is there a way to get in touch with @Toodles besides PM-ing him here or emailing his Marcus Post email? I still haven’t received the package I ordered on January 3rd. USPS says it’s been in “Pre-Shipment” since January 8. ie, t
Hey @autobot ! If you find you have the time, it would be awesome to keep up with your progress! I’m sure there are others who, along with myself, are interested in attempting this as well.
@ButteryBrawler , I have sort of halted my progress of this in light of @C-Sword making a thread about brook considering making there own if there was enough interest in them. If brooks was to make these i know i would be cheaper to buy there’s instead of making my own. But if time passes and no official word from Brook is made one way or the other, ill make my own and post some images and progress of it.
Question on remapping of this converter, i read where it says have to hit and hold start, but how do i know if im in remapping mode? Do i plug it into a pc and remap it from there so that i can visual see the changes? Or turn on a game like for example SF4 get to practice mode, hold start for 10 secs while moving the D pad, once the d-pad stops responding in game (i.e. character doest move anymore), then that means im in remapping mode?
So i got my fgw converter in and brook ps3/ps4 pcba in a few days ago in an attempt to make a sega saturn to ps4 converter. I wired everything up but the only problem i am having now is this part
"jumper the unlabeled solder jumper spot on the right of the board" when i look there , there is 2 little rectangular pads but ones seems to bridge to se which its select and other to ground, i tried both but nothing seems to get it going, is it not possible to make a saturn pad work with a ps4 using these boards?
Hey Autobot, that really looks fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing. This will hopefully be a great reference for folks in the future who will undoubtedly wish to make the same thing.
So I’m putting together a new small project with my FGW Converters that I got ages ago.
I’m noticing two oddities with them.
On one of my boards, the 1P/Square button output doesn’t work. Everything else does, except for that button. I swapped the chip with my other board (which worked fine), and it works fine, concluding that there’s something wrong with the chip of that one. All the legs look fine, and I’ve tested continuity to the pin and all. Anyone have any ideas on how to get this working?
What exactly do shorting the contacts for SNES and Saturn mode do? Looking at the board, connecting the contacts for use with a Saturn controller shorts the Select button; and from what I’ve seen on my boards, connecting the contacts for use with an SNES controller shorts the L2 button. Is this intentional? Wouldn’t this cause problems if you’re connecting the FGW Converter to a something where the L2 or Select buttons are actually used, since they will be constantly held down?
Taking a page where Gummo fix similar problems with mad Catz TE boards back in the day. Try a resistor going from VCC to that signal trace. You want a high Ohm Resistor like 1k or more.
From what I understood you Just need to Hold L2 on power up of the FGW for SNES mode and select on for Saturn mode.
The jumpers made those buttons always held down as L2 is never used for the SNES and Select on the saturn.
Hmm. Good call. I’ll try that out. I never had that issue back in the day (mind you, I never really owned much Mad Catz in my collection).
Is it only on power-up? The instructions don’t really make mention of that.
For sure that L2 is never used on the SNES (since it doesn’t exist), but say I pair up a FGW Converter to a HFC4: then L2 is constantly held during gameplay on the PS4. But if it’s only really needed on startup, then that’s good enough for me.
I bought a Gummo made Saturn to PS3/PS4 adapter from DirrtyPop a year ago. It uses the FGwidget. Anyway it was working perfectly for awhile but I stopped using it for a couple of months only to return to using it. But the Saturn R button (aka PlayStation L2 or basically button 8) no longer registers.
I know this is all experimental and I am aware of the FGW’s bug that causes a button to stop working. Gummo suggested that I do the reset which is hold start on a Saturn pad.
But unfortunately I’m still stuck with only 7 action buttons as opposed to 8. L2/Saturn R does register when remapped to something else. I do the remapping on the PS4 itself. I don’t know if that’s the issue or whatever. Do I have to force the pad into PS3 mode? Do I need to do ir on the pc? Did toodles make a factory reset? Gummo has been helpful in the past but I’m also looking if possible for additional help. Since his receiving his advice on resetting/remapping, I’ve been doing it on and off and the adapter remains only a 7 action button pad/stick.
I know L/R isn’t really needed and the fact that I have optional panels for my Saturn stick that only have 6 and 7 buttons respectively kinda make this moot. But those lazy days on pad require those shoulders for training mode macros.
That or any traditional 2D game that isn’t a Fighter as well that may need the shoulders.
Sonic Mania on the Saturn controller is glorious btw.