The Laminate part will be much larger than your desired size when you laminate it.
Let’s say you wanted to fit your lamilabel into a 8.5x11 recession. First you would cut off a 1/8" every side of your artwork, which makes the print out 8.375x10.875. Laminate and then cut the excess laminate off to the exact dimensions of 8.5x11, and you’ll have 1/8" of plastic bond around the artwork. The lamilabel can now perfectly fall into the recession and your artwork will be a bit smaller than the borders of the laminate. (8.5x11 lamilabel with a 8.375x10.875 artwork)
I’m sure I’ve seen(and posted)on a similar thread before.
Oh well. They resurface once in awhile and are informative.
PM me if you have any specific Printers/Kinkos questions, I have had both sides of experience with printer preparation/printing and currently actually work at Fedex Kinkos(though, it’s now Fedex Office… :wasted: )
Yes, there are definitely other options out there and better quality materials, but for such a small project and convenience, Fedex Kinkos is great.
Here’s an option no one mentions, but is a great alternative:
Have your work printed on Adhesive Vinyl and then cold lam’ed. It’s a great finish and less likely to separates compared to lamilabel.
ALWAYS remember to have a test print on just regular paper for color/ clarity.
And yes, NO COPYRIGHT images. We can’t do that.
Of course, there’s a self serve area in the store, whatever you do there is all gravy…
I’m doing a custom image for my TE stick. I’ve heard above that if you print it on 8 x 14 legal size it makes your image too small, so you’ve gotta print at the template default on tabloid.
My question is, do I need to save my file as a jpeg? Or just leave it as a .psd? I’d like it to print at the template default so I can size my paper just right.
If you’re willing to throw down extra cash I’d go with mamemarquee’s. I just got some shit in I ordered from him and it looks absolutely amazing. Best printing job I’ve ever had done for me.
And you do want your image pretty high-res as is before you go upping the DPI too much, or else it will turn blurry like everyone has said. I just use photoshop when I’m creating my artwork because it’s really simple to set the exact size and DPI.
Sorry guys for the noob questions but I’m having trouble adding custom art to my SE. My question is, if I cut/print the image a bit short, then laminate/cut to the exact size and apply to my SE, won’t I be able to see the metal, or old art depending on how I go about it, through the laminate on the edges? Sorry if it’s hard to understand what I’m saying I’m just concerned on how it’s gonna look afterwards. I wish there was a way to get an acrylic top for SE, it would make my life a hell of a lot easier.
Yes, some people make it that the metal or original art is seen underneath the laminate on edge.
Some people cut the art right at edge of metal, making the edge not sealed by laminate.
That’s what I was affraid of. Lets say I just cut at the edge of metal, how long would the laminate last before peeling? Also I think I’ve read something about only laminating the art’s side and adhesive on the other how does that work? Would it also peel off?
I asked this in another dead thread; got no replies, so…
Newb question: Has anyone tried spraying on clear coat over their printed graphic? I hate cutting lexan (acrylic) and am concerned about exposed borders if I go laminated/lamilabel. Any info/insight would help. Thanks.
Yep. Use very light thin coats at first because depending on how you got your graphic printed, some inks may run. Also best to test and practice on a scrap graphic first.
I have a question about this. I heard most people print their templates at Kinko’s. I know that, but I think you need a glass cover or a Plexi as most people call it. Does Kinko’s sell Plexi covers?
Sorry it took awhile for me to check back to this thread.
Kinkos(FedEx Office) does not sell Plexi covers. You are best to look to Home Improvement/Glass store like Home Depot. There are some excellent vendors out there that will custom cut these to proper faceplate templates, like http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=about&sub=reppanel
That said, within the year I may be starting up services again for fully finished stick art. I am now with a new company that can direct print to Plexi, which is the optimum process for design. Will keep you posted!
Probably around $30-$35 before shipping… That’s what I’d guess.
Top-set plexis alone are at least $20. Art charges around $7-$9 for artwork printing and cutting.
The special process ink that’s used for direct printing onto plexi can’t be cheap unless it’s done in large volume.
One thing to say… Although the “print to plexi” may be preferrable for some people, I have a feeling that ultimately the artwork (on paper) laying UNDER
top-set plexi will last longer unless the “print to plexi” is sprayed onto the underside of the plexi. If it’s on top, it’s going to get scratched by fingernails, watches, jewelry, tools, etc. for certain. It could STILL get scratched if it’s on the underside of the plexi assuming the metal faceplate isn’t clean and has scraps of plastic or metal shavings. Mild movement could cause shavings to etch onto the plexi/scratch off ink.