Faith in science of joystick building

I would like to get and actually play the joystick that I got made.

According to my joystick builder Stan, he says it works perfectly fine for every tested system that works with the Paradise Cthulhu system, except NES and tg16 which stand didn’t have working testable machines for. it already passed the test for all the Cthulhu systems that were testable at the time.

Also my theory on how to wire it is also correct because he tested both the left hand port and right hand port arm my system and found that all buttons are arranged in the Capcom Way with mirror mapping for the right hand arrangement, for all systems involved.

Now I have a few things extra I need to have done. I’m trying to see which things fundamentally require the joystick to test out, and which things he can work on on the side, while I play the games that do work.

A list of the chores needed by the end. Only read in intetested or helping answering the question

1 a telephone operator keypad-like device for working with the Atari jaguar and certain systems older than NES. (He has none of those old systems to test them with so again this is going to require me to test it.)

  1. A 3.5 mm telephone operator button remapper 3.5 mm male to male wire goes in between one input and one output and is designed to be taken away so can be used without it but if you want to change buttons and the game system doesn’t allow you to do it this will do it.

3 certain moldings for attaching real control keypads on the side so that the keys and overlays work correctly. This needs to work with for real controllers from five different systems intellivision ColecoVision standard ColecoVision super action 5200 and jaguar.

  1. Direct wiring adapters for Bally Astrocade Sega Master System, and if someone can make an externalizer for a hard-wired Odyssey 2, an odyssey 2.

  2. Possibly make the 2600 booster grip attachment add on too, because it treats fully one direction of the panel as off and fully the other direction at on and to those pins represent the player 1 and player 2 analog paddles.

  3. The brook universal USB adapter. (by the way how does a headset work for the Xbox one with the brook universal adapter? I never could figure that out.)

  4. Wire a PC digital joypad for you as a 5200 fightstick PCB when combined with a Bohoki adapter.

  5. Follow the instructions I found how to make a fightstick work as an 8-way intellivision controller, on a system which has 16 separate inputs representing 16 separate directions.

  6. Use the Edladdin pre-made PCBs for ColecoVision and 7800.

  7. Pad hack an N64, a Wii Classic pro, a jaguar and a 3DO controller. (By the way I can’t find padhack diagrams on at least two of those four namely the jaguar and the 3DO, and maybe the third of the Wii Classic Pro)

  8. Add 3 extra buttons as a separate add-on that can plug in the unused port to bring my joystick to 14 buttons + north south east west, which currently fits every system if it has four auxiliary buttons like the Nintendo switch, and a left click and right click for those functions. Also while it’s done that way make it a Pac-Land / Track and Field controller that could be separate in an Atari 2600 and ColecoVision and through the joystick and other programming devices, a PlayStation one and Xbox 360.

  9. A safety switch for auxiliary buttons off to prevent pausing and menuing during competitions, unless intending to do so.

I may not be an elevtronics ecpert, but based on my very limited knowledge, i’d say:

A. 1 and 2 require the joystick to make sure the concept of 3.5 mm switching is sound qccording to my system.

B. Stand might need the joystick to accurately make add-ons for the keypad molds to make sure it’s level with the stick and works right.

C. Number 11 might need a Cthulhu to see if the left click, right click, and auxiliary buttons work right.

D. Everything else if I’m right just needs the knowledge of what my DB37 pinout is. And that oattern just needs to be consistently followed. Since he has no equipment to test all my other PCBs, then these should work in the blind.

Hey Stan I’m ready to receive once we establish we don’t need the physical stick to test it, and you don’t have the consoles to test.

What I’m imagining this stick looks like


Exactly. I need to know whether i should trust my hut in what will work ( separately wired left snf right hand arrangements that are pre-wired thought of did work and some SRK commentors were unsure)

I don’t know some of the jargon to easily describe what I want, but my instincts tennd to be right. Stan and I almost separated, but when i told i’ll research the electronic design and you said if i am sure og something, he’ll go against his instincts and do it my way on faith.

His instinct was wiring RJ45 by colors twice, and twice he made A-B crossover connectors. Since most ethernet cables are either A-A or B-B. Few off the shelf are A-B and all are labeled as “crossover”. Therefore wiring left to right and ignoring color is consistent.

Also someone said RJ45 cable checkers are too expensive. But a less than $10 tester just checks wire routes and flags non-working wires. It doesn’t measure twists. And for the purposes of a fight stick modder, isn’t that all you need?

I said, did my information turn out to get things working? He said yes. So don’t assume I am a dunce if SRK goes against your opinion.

I guess i should trust my instincts and anything that’s unclear trust SRKers. So should Stan

Morbid curiosity but I would like to see the inside of this stick.

@tripletopper if you put those pcbs in project boxes you reduce the risk of breaking the soldering joints by handling the wires.

@Tspeedo 2 good points. In Stan’s defense, he assumed a single ground at first,. When I told him each input would have a unique ground (to cover the extreme case of a Colecovision’s dual grounds, combined with the high flexibility of the joystick remappings system eventually). He had to do some crazy stuff. It looks like a typical Los Angeles Interstate Cloverleaf.

Stan didn’t believe my theory would work until he tried it I made a believer out of him.

PS thanks guys for the advice, whether curious fans, resident devil’s advocate, and curious folk alike. #1 thanks to DarkSakul, who have given me a favorable review of silence, once I most thouroughly explained the design, we argued about finer points, and assume since I always get criticism no matter what I do, the more nitpicky the criticism, the more on track I was. I assume silence is the ultimate thumbs up from DarkSakul and other hobbyist devil’s advocates.

I was gone for a week or 2 due to simultaneously Android and Mac problems, and SRK forums have to be typed in directly as forums.shiryuken com. Otherwise browser security licks you out.

I was looking for a PLACE CB holding box. I didn’t know they came kind-of premade until (before visiting here) I found a part number stamped on the inside of the plastic.

So I googled the part number +“box”. And found it to be a Radio Shack Electronics Box. Looking up electronics box, I’ve seen synonyms like Circuit Box, Project Box, and Home Depot has something called a Junction Box.

Until I did the search today, I was unaware what these were called, let alone knew it was common enough to be carried locally.

Now the big question. How do I let a bundle of up to 37 wires passed through an opening and have it sufficiently clumsy proofed it.

Do I have to have a hole drilled? How thick? Is either an open semicircle or rectangle cut on the lip end be sufficient.

By the way. I was not quick enough in clumsyproofing it. 2 directions stopped working on my Genesis 6 button padhacked PCB.

Ironically enough, they are both easy and south from both the left hand and fight hand perspectives. So that means the buttons and joystick mechanically work, just a lost connection.

I should clumsyproof it before trying one of the other 2 PCBs, the Genesis 3 button and the Paradise Cthulhu

Also, since I’m switching PCBs, should I put a “skin” by the frequently handled part, like the grip where I plug it in the stick?

Is the best advice if the wires are already soldered to get a “snap on” clear DB37 head grip skin ( also a more proper name would be nice.)?

Finally, I tried hone Depot as a place I could try to find an “as you wait solder service for hire” but can if empty? Any help?

And would someone with decent electronics repair knolkedge be able to tell the difference between East signal,easy ground, south signal, and south ground. By the way, both loose wires are like green with no markings on the cable, if not by looking, a voltage test?