Haha sweet, You’re pretty much into both franchises, but I’m more a SF guy. But CVS2 will solve that problem.
Yes wierd crap does happen and its annoying. I do want to swap out the PCB but I’m a nervous noob about doing so. X-Arcade has been my test guinea pig for stick building as it affords you tons of errors. Its basically my learning experience. But since its a dual wouldn’t I need two PCB’s? I’m really nervous about soldering or whatever I have to do. But after I complete it I probably will delve into make a lot of sticks. I wish there was someone in my area that could do this for me or give me hands on step by step help. Just reading guides and following them is nerve racking some of the time because you get no immediate feed back 
I’d also like to put some artwork on the it. But what can you get to fit the entire front of this big thing? and how does one get the wholes through the clear plastic sheets? I imagine some tool or something. Essentially meaning something I have no access too. I wish I could just ship this off and have someone else do it 
Oh and I’m looking at the custom stick thread. I see people with most of their sticks having PS1 cables. But I also seen sticks that have those computer cables in the back with the metal connector that has the ends twist things. Essentially I need to know the best options and I’m searching for an X-Arcade Mod thread now.
Modding it is not so hard, just get rid of the PCB by removing the quickdisconnects, and getting QDed PCB’s and reapplying them. You can buy already QDed PCBs here so it’s pretty easy. Just a hassle. Artwork you can vinyl stickers or whatever from mamemarques I think.
Aren’t the quick disconnects the things that plug into the buttons and the stick itself? And isn’t a PCB the metal circuit board of a controller? And what’s a QDed PCBs?
:wasted::wasted::wasted:
I want to modify it further by removing the PCB and putting in my own. Problem is I have no idea how seeing as how this is a dual stick. Does it just mean I do the same thing twice?
I see arcade sticks in the Custom thread that don’t just use PS1 PCB’s I see other things like these.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31dIVg9ddDL.AA280.jpg
I’m confused as hell. I’ve been reading the guides and gettings some ideas. But if anyone knows of a hands on X-Arcade Dual guide or anything like that I’d greatly appreciate it.
Here’s how it works. Ready?
There are two ways that are most commonly used in order for a stick to be used on multiple systems. For the sake of arguments, let’s always assume it’s two systems.
Type one: Dual PCBs inside the box, swappable cord. For argument’s sake I’m going to use PS1 and Xbox 360, since that’s what I’m currently building.
At the DB-9 connector, there are 9 pins, hence the name DB-9. The PS1 controller requires the use of 7 pins, and the 360 (and other USB devices) use 4. However, both types can share 2 pins, which are the +3.3v/+5v and the ground. So in my case, I’m wiring up the 5 non-shared PS1 wires to the top 5 pins, and then the shared wires to the first two pins in the bottom row. Then I’m wiring the 360’s shared two wires to the first two pins in the bottom row, followed by the two non-shared wires into the next two pins. That way, when I switch the cable off, the PS1s non-shared wires won’t ever interact with the 360’s cord, and therefore won’t interact with the 360 system and vice versa.
Type two: Project Box
Basically this one works very similar the one above, but now the PCBs are externalized and are in line with the cords. Basically, all the buttons are wired up to a DB-25 connector. And then you have the male DB-25 connector to go the corresponding leads on the PCB.
So which route would you recommend taking? Which is the best meaning produces the least lag. And which is the most difficult to do.
I just went to Radio Shack and picked up a Rosin Core Solder. So all I need now is to gut two PS1 controllers correct?
That above stuff looks greek. I’m gonna have to go study the faq threads some more.