Sorry, I don’t have pics but you can get them at radio shack. I think they cost around 3-4 dollars.
oh thas nothing
thanks mang + rep
I was wondering how is your stick wired. Are you using a common ground or are you using seperate grounds for each button? I’m going to be making a DC stick with 5 different grounds, 1 for the start, 1 for the directions, 1 for the buttons, 1 for left trig and 1 for the right.
Just saw this thread today :). You can actually solder to a orginal DC-pad and it works with L & R (digital). Read the thread and look at pic:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=44260.0;attach=18566;image
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=44260.0
Ok…
The Sega Dreamcast pad exhibits one frame of lag on the fierces. The only time it is a problem is selecting characters with 3 punches or 3 kicks. You need to hit fierce one frame early, which is not a lot. Otherwise, all games will accept 2 punches or 2 kicks as valid.
The Mad Catz pad is the best DC pad I’ve ever used, but there are different versions, and you need to understand grounding to use certain versions. Some have resistors on the buttons, but no resistors for directions or start. If you skip these resistors, only one button can be pressed at a time. The chances are good that you won’t even catch your mistake during testing.
Quantum is a no-no…I’ve had one given to me for hacking, only to find out the extra buttons are programmable, but not very well at that. If you’re gonna hack a quantum, just hack a standard DC controller instead.
Contak, regarding your grounding scheme…WTF?
Multiple systems I covered in many threads, but there are different ways to go about it. Several pads in one box with connectors to flip them around, or all hooked up at once(do not attempt if you have any questions).
http://www.shoryuken.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56608
Well the pad I am using is the performance astropad. On the pcb there is a ground for the directions , a ground for the buttons, and one for the start and since i’ve read this thread I am going to use seperate grounds for the triggers.
Well I finished the hack on the performance astro pad. It works like a charm. No lag whatsoever. The hack is pretty easy. For the directions you have to use individual grounds, for the four face buttons they share a common ground, the start, L & R triggers have their own grounds. For the triggers the performance pad uses a slider(looks like a cross fader) with three wires connected to it, red, brown, and black. Through trial and error I figured out that you connect your positive wire from your stick to the red and the ground to the brown, even though the black is the ground for the trigger. When I had the the black wire connected instead of the brown, it would act like its either recognizing a vmu or the controller being unplugged but the action for the button press would still happen. Once I switched to the brown no problems. By the way I left the wires on the slider and solderd to them there. There a lot of the astropad controllers out there so if your having problems with L&R triggers give this a try. I don’t have pics but if I find someone with a camera i’ll post back. Long
I have one of those. Z and C respond as X and A. :tdown:
PS1 PCB + Total Control Adapter (Dreamcast) = GGPO problems. :tup:
I read that the innovation converters map R1/L1 -> L trigger and R2/L2 -> R trigger.