[LEFT]I’m considering getting plexiglass and some prints done for my madcatz TE, but i really like the look of the bezel so i want to keep that.[/LEFT]
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[LEFT]I’ve done some reading around but couldnt find the answer to my quesion.[/LEFT]
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[LEFT]I assume you can either sit the plexi on top of the bezel (with the metal plate inside), meaning the plexi is raised (which i’m not keen on). Or alternatively you can put the metal plate on the bottom then the then the bezel with the plexi inside.[/LEFT]
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[LEFT]So my question is that in both of these ways will the joystick be lowered compared to the standard height?[/LEFT]
It goes TE Case then TE Bezel then TE Control Panel then TE Art then TE Acrylic.
Adding Acrylic does not change the height of the Joystick.
But does lessen the exposed shaft length.
The second way you typed does not work.
TE Bezel has to go under TE Control Panel.
There is no extra raise to the play area if you get 1/32" Acrylic.
Mmm, Wonder where i can buy that in Europe.
A little bit of thinking for you, though: a 1/16" plexi raises the play surface by 1.6mm, a 1/32" plexi would raise it by 0.8mm. Granted that it does change the ideal JLF mount (from 24mm to 22.4mm or 23.2mm, respectively); how much would that affect you and your gameplay? If you feel that it won’t change anything, then it shouldn’t really matter.
You can order from Tek-Innovations; however, he charges extra for foreign shipping.
Ye thanks for the help.
The postage on Tek-Innovations is too much (like 45 dollars).
Ye the exposed joystick height being lowered that little bit shouldnt be too much of a problem. However, in my opinion raising the plexi above the bezel doesnt look great , so i’ll just try and source the thinnest plexi i can.
I was pretty sure the bencao person that made the project fatality fight stick bought his parts from a European website. I also do remember visiting that site and saw a plexi for TE if I remember.
The plexi thickness is a much bigger issue on non-universal stick mounts like the HRAP 3 (vanilla sticks, not the HRAP SA/SE models). Your stick height is definitely going to less on an HRAP 3 if you choose to use any JLF replacement other than an LS-58 on the HRAP 3. LS-32, -33, and -40s definitely come up shorter on the HRAP 3 (vanilla model – no SA or SE suffix after the “3”).
The only way to adjust for lost stick height clearance on the HRAP 3 short of a physical mod to the faceplate – removing the existing welded joystick mounting plate --, is to get a shaft extender or longer replacement shaft. Then you have the issue of accounting for extra height which you can manage with spacers/extra washers between the joystick/joystick mounting plate and HRAP 3 welded mount.
If you stick to buying Mad Catz joysticks and Hori HRAP SA and HRAP V3’s, the shaft height shouldn’t be an issue. It’s mainly an old HRAP 3/retro joystick issue.
On faceplate mods (drilling holes to mount joysticks directly underneath like on the T5) or customized replacement metal faceplatements, you take the clear plexi thickness into account with washers mounted between the faceplate and your joystick/joystick mounting plate. Simple adjustment really.
you forget that bencao exists in europe and does do plexi if i remember right
here’s his shop
http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/index.php?cPath=1&XTCsid=r4ilj9l3bevgouceq54m422544
^ Looks like my memories were correct.