Does anyone have a Wire-Map for the Pelican Real Arcade Stick (PS2)

Tech Talk
1

I used Arcade Stick Monk’s guide to install a iL 8-Way Euro / Happ Competition Stick along with a set of 10 Happ Competition Buttons.

I have replaced all 10 buttons on the stick with iL/Happ (8 main buttons, plus Start and Select)

During my modification while replacing the buttons, I screwed up and snapped a few of the wires off the soldered points on the Microswitches. (It was a really cheap and flimsy wiring job to begin with) So now I’m completely lost on what to do next, I got a bunch of QD’s from Lizard Lick all of the right size, so what I plan to do is remove the stock Pelican Microswitches and swap them with the Happ Cherry Microswitches.

But in order to do this right, I was hoping if anyone has knowledge on hand for the proper wiring map for the buttons and ground on the stick. This is the only stick I have for my PS2, so if any one can help me I would greatly appreciate it, as I am desperate here. I would hate to have gotten to a point in which I bought a bunch of parts for my stick, only to have fucked up the stick is beyond repair, making my mod attempt a worthless effort.

Any help would be grateful.

2

Yikes. No one’s responding.

I have replaced the PCB in my Pelican (universal) with a PS1 A series. You can do that if all else fails. Good luck.

3

Do you have a picture handy of the PCB? If you post one, someone should be able to figure out where the ground is at least. Also, did you note what wires were going to what button? If not, then boot up a game that allows you to easily tell what you’ve pressed (i.e. a button config menu or training mode to see what attack comes out) and touch a ground wire to a signal wire to see what happens. Unless someone has a pre-labeled diagram handy, you may be forced to use trial and error to figure out which button is which. Pictures of the current state of your project would really help; I’m sure it’s an easy fix that looks complicated. Unless you ripped the wires off of the PCB itself (which would require some soldering to fix) you should be able to recover your project easily.