Oh, even better! I was thinking of getting a bat-style replacement top for it, but it’s not really necessary. All I know is I want to mod my stick.
And I imagine the mounting height won’t matter much since I’ll probably be adding a nut like you did to get the extra height. I have rather large hands so if it were sunk in too far it would be a problem, but so long as the ball isn’t any lower than the stock setup of the stick then it’ll be fine.
Hopefully I’ll have the money to get the buttons and stick from you before you’re out of parts. I have bills to pay before I can get the fun stuff, sadly.
Since the pcb has no common ground you can’t use the JLF’s 5-pin connector (which requires a common ground) so to block it from taking input from the 5-pin you remove the path to it (or to remove it?). You then just use the joystick’s microswitches to accept input.
switches connect two wires together. The xbox360 has two wires for each direction, a total of 8 wires. To move in a direction, you have connect those two wire together, and nothing else.
Aracde boards use one wire for each direction, and a line called a common, for a total of 5 wires. If the wire for the direction is connected to the common wire, the arcade board knows you want to move in that direction.
The xbox360 controller can’t use a common line like this without some serious work. Cutting the traces, (or replacing the JLF board with 4 separate microswitches; my preferred way), changes the JLF to connect two separate wires for each direction, instead of connecting the directions to this shared common line.
Just do what I did and use the old micro switches and leave the wires soldered on. They will fit the sanwa base with no problem. Use the same screw and screw it through the microswitch and put the gate on top of that. But if you have T5 screw like Chipper used then use that instead.
is there something like a toggle switch that would allow all the wires from one pcb to another?
here’s what i was thinking, having a switchable stick from a 360 pcb to a ps2 pcb, which is adaptable to just about anything else
i’ve seen switches but would i need one with like…24 inputs on both sides? (2 ea for each button and 8 for the joystick) or is this not possible at all…without having a toggle for each wire?
it’s doable. However, there is no way you can get another pcb in there. or you can do it the universal way with different pcb box. but i don’t think there is really any room anyway.
i was actually wanting to try it with my t5 stick, which has oodles of room. the reason i posted it in this thread is because all you smert guys were in here at the moment.
I’ve been thinking of getting an EX-2 stick and setting it up to use either my 360 pad or a gamecube pad (for GGXX-wii). I think the best way to do it would be to butcher a controller for each by creating a wiring harness out of a DB-25 cable (old printers used these, parallel port, etc). Basically each controller would have a DB-25 connector instead of its native connector and would plug-in to my stick instead of a console.
I don’t think toodles u-pcb supports 360 yet and I’m not sure it ever will
Perhaps if you were clever you could implement the switching idea using the analog switch IC’s and only a couple manual switches. You’d need a lot of room in whatever box if you wanted to have both pcbs+your switching circuit inside though.
Unless someone cracks the security and then posts up how its done, nope, it never will. Anything less will always require sacrificing a controller somehow. Sorry, its not a problem with the UPCB, its just Microsoft being bastards with the protection on the peripherals.
But I am trying to make using it with a sacrificed controller as easy as possible.
How the hell do you guys take apart the joystick like in that pic? I feel really dumb asking it but I am at a loss right now
Also, does anyone have a DOA template for the stick? I want to make some new art for it. When it’s all said and done, can I just print the art, get it laminated, and use a spray on adhesive and put it on the stick?
a screwdriver and a tight grip/something that will make the shaft not slip around.
i usually try to put my thumb under the eclip and push it towards me.
Aight, so I “exchanged” the joysticks and everything is said and good. I do have another question. SupraFist stated earlier in the thread that he just used the existing microswitches as they fit the sanwa base. I am thinking about doing this as well but is there a difference between the stock microswitches and the Sanwa JLF microswitches? Cause if there isn’t, I’m just gonna use the stock ones as this will require less soldering, work, etc.
