Has anyone in the US ordered this from Amazon UK. It will let me checkout, and it’s actually cheaper 56.92 USD shipped than Amazon US. I ordered blu-ray’s from Amazon UK before and it’s always arrived with no issues but that was from amazon.uk as the seller, not a third party seller (Moderntech) as in this case.
Anyone? lmk.
thanks
Moderntech got me the stick the next day. I put the order in on Friday morning, and it got delivered on Saturday. I didn’t expect that - was a pleasant surprise. Free shipping as well.
So while I can’t speak for US based customers, dealing with Moderntech was a very good experience for me.
You’ve just reminded me I need to put some good feedback in for them.
in your video side note you wrote “This was a completely solderless mod.” --> does it use quick discos? laugh is doing lots of soldering in his howto-thread 
Yes, I used QD’s for everything. I think Laugh soldered a lot because he uses 8 Crown CWB203C buttons. I’m not familiar with Crown buttons, but it looks to me like that type of button requires soldering as opposed to Sanwa/Seimitsu where the microswitches stick out and you can just push a QD onto it. I had it a bit easier as well because I only use 6 buttons:
360: A, X, Y, B, LB, RB
PS3: square, circle, X, triangle, R1, L1
Check this pic from his original thread:
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5092/sv102468.jpg
I only removed the lower PCB (with the HS initials on it), whilst leaving the 9 connectors to the upper slimline PCB part intact. It wasn’t an active decision, just how the cookie crumbled when I tried to wriggle the PCB’s apart. I then figured to check if a QD would fit on these connecters and it worked, although I used small pliers to tighten the QD’s a little bit. Same principle applied to the wiring harness for the joystick. Just don’t use excessive force and it should work fine.
It seems a lot like the solderless method that I used to wire my Mayflash, except I didn’t use QD’s on the pins sticking out of the main PCB but rather the connectors from an old USB 1.1 motherboard adapter.
This is cool for the buttons. It looks like I’ll be doing the same thing. How did you connect the stick?
thanks again for the pictures.
still waiting for my order to arrive … modding action incoming :rock:
http://i985.photobucket.com/albums/ae335/OD09/100_0556-1.jpg
Again, it’s quick and dirty but it works perfectly. I still prefer soldering the wires and I may do this next weekend.
The QD’s fit exactly in the 3 white plastic parts from the left.
Wow so I already have a mayflash that I modded and was looking for a stick for the 360 that had a similar size/button layout. I come across this and its just too good to be true. Not only will it have all of the same… EVERYTHING that I’m used it, it works for both ps3/360. 
Furthermore, my mayflash was the first mod job I’d done, so this should be a walk in the park, especially with laughs tutorial. I just confirmed my order from Etokki
this looks good. but I called it on ordering from datel, didn’t I? Sorry to hear everyone that had issues with them.
The amazon page isn’t even showing the stick anymore. I’m thinking we really won’t see it from them.
received mine from amazon.de yesterday 
im suprised - quality is great for a 27? stick. as already mentioned the stick is a bit too loose, the buttons are ok.
if you want to try ordering from germany - its still on sale.
Some pictures of my Datel mod using only disconnects
I m currently waiting for my artwork to get rid of this ugly clone of Ryu playing KOF XII 
Has anybody made any headway into how they got around the 360 lockout and if it’s something that can be reproduced on custom PCBs?
I just ordered 2 of these…never modded a stick in my life, but been wanting a stick that works for both consoles for months, and they’re cheap as hell so if it doesn’t work…meh
I’m just hoping that Toodles figures out how they did it and applies it to some revision of the Cthulhu.
I think you’re hoping I’m smarter than I actually am. Laugh’s most likely completely right; the main board IC probably handles the USB stuff, and passes the authentication off to their custom chip, just like legit boards do. I’d consider it a big win if I could do the same thing and still require lifting a security chip from some other controller, and that’d be tons easier than figuring out the private keys stored in the security chip.
If you could figure that out I bet you’d have a boatload of madcatz controllers sent to you to pull that chip!
I have a question for anyone who has opened this stick, i noticed Okazaki III had to remove the screw holders. Is this required for all sticks or are there sticks (Sanwa JLF for instance) you can just install as-is? Thanx in advance!
This thing seems too good to be true.
What’s the catch? And how is it stock? Is it an “UPGRADE ASAP” sort of stick or something that will work good enough for a while?