EDIT: Yes, that’s exactly it! Generic HID -> PS3 translation. Thank you for understanding!
Those mappings fits with my experience… It did switch my buttons around!
I’ve got…
Tri Cir L1
Sqr X L2
—old post down here—
Since it goes…
PS2 input -> PC input -> PS3 input
Things are bound to be moved around in translation for some converters. I set my buttons on the stick like the madcatz SFIV sticks, yet no standard configuration in SF would fit, which led me to assume something was amiss.
Look, any usb controller can be put into a PS3, right? PC pads and PS2->PC converters give of inputs like “button 1”, “button 2” etc
When these devices are put into the PS3, the PS3 must be deciding what those buttons are going to represent to the PS3 (for example button 1 becomes X).
What I wanted was the formula for this conversion, but I guess nobody knows… Shouldn’t be to hard to figure out myself, but I don’t have easy access to a PS3.
ok someone needs to help me out with this problem I have. I think its along the lines of what you guys are talking about right now.
I got an inpin with a custom psx stick (dualshock1 pcb) and when i try to map the buttons using that converter it says that button 8 is being held down and it wont let me map any buttons. the thing is my stick doesn’t have L1 or L2 configured at all.
When I have any other controller plugged into the inpin this doesnt happen, when I have my stick plugged into other converters it doesnt happen, and I have a radioshack and a sumoto converter.
on ps3 my sumoto lags like a bitch, the radioshack barely works, and with my inpin everytime I press start it stops working, and same with the guide button on the converter itself. sometimes it works fully sometimes it doesnt. Keep in mind I only tested the inpin with this certain stick
so I guess my question would be what button 8 is on a dualshock 1. on a dual shock 2 I know its select so would it be the same? also how could I fix this problem?
edit: also would anyone know if loose wires would be the problem?
Ok this might not be the right tread for this question, but I have been looking for hours and haven’t found anything close. If i am wrong could someone redirect me to the proper info. I am still new to this site and stick making so bear with me.
Is it possible to make an adapter, or is there an existing adapter that can be plugged into the Cthulhu PS3/PC through USB to convert it in to other pin types. For example plugging an inpin or any other USB converter box into your joystick to play with it on other older analog controller systems like the Saturn. This might not be possible but it would be great to not need to put a PCB for each system in your stick.
Sorry GameCop, that won’t work. The Play & Charge Kit cannot be used to bypass the Microsoft security scheme since the kit only serves to draw power from the console for charging the batteries on a wireless controller. It does not send any sort of data stream through the cable from the controller. The controller still acts wirelessly. Oddly enough however, the P&C kit can allow a wireless controller to automatically sync to the console the P&C kit is connected to.
So, in short, no you can’t use the P&C Kit to bypass the security. You can however use things like the Rock Band drums, any of Mad Catz’s sticks or pads, any official wired controller, etc. The device HAS to be wired though. Can’t function wirelessly.
Also, GODDAMN laugh, you’re pulling through for us again! I’ll be ordering from you in the near future!
EDIT: I almost completely forgot to ask! laugh, have you tested this converter with a Hori Real Arcade Pro 1 by chance? I’m almost certain it’ll work, but I just want to make sure since some converters seem to work with the Hori Real Arcade Pro 2, but not the HRAP1.
(poopy hands?)