Colormatching paint to Sanwa 'dark blue'

I’m working on a project and I really like the hue of Sanwa “dark blue” buttons/tops.

How difficult is it to match colors? I only have a Lowe’s nearby, would I be able to bring a button there and get the right color or would I have to attempt to mix paints to get it? Or ideally does anyone know an online store that sells a color close to this?

Intending to paint a case and maybe some small plastic parts.

Also side question: how identical are the Qanba balltops and washers to the Sanwa color? Cause those are alot cheaper on FA it seems

Its very hard to color match exactly from different brands, Sanwa, Seimitsu, FA and Qanba as different standards what makes each color.
Each company has their own “recipe” in their plastic mix. So how identical, not at all. Also cheaper is not better, as you often get what you paid for.

Now matching a paint color to an existing button or ball top is easier. I doubt Lowes would help but it wouldn’t hurt.

I guess I’ll probably go official then unless I get a better idea. Are Qanba balltops that bad though?

I still don’t know the first thing on how to find a suitable matching color for painting the case, is there a place I should look?

Not bad, but I never had someone disprove the old saying " you get what you paid for"
Just people who got lucky being at the right place at the right time.

For all I know Qanba makes alright Balltops, but they aren’t going to match Sanwa buttons.

The same applies to Hori colors.

Although some Hori colors match Sanwa’s, it’s really a 50/50 crap-shoot.
Sanwa colors tend to be darker; Seimitsu tends to have lighter shade colors; Hori is in-between and can match one or the other or be in its own category.

The reds are very different line-to-line. What Seimitsu calls “red” is actually (correctly called) by Sanwa’s standard “vermillion” or orange-red. For the black HRAP 3’s Hori used to make, they matched the Sanwa vermillion balltop about perfectly with their Hori plug-in buttons. Swap out those buttons with vermillion Sanwa’s and you’d hardly notice the difference. Likewise, the Hori red balltop handle for the Tekken 5 joysticks matched Sanwa’s darker red shade just about perfectly, too.

I noticed on the Arcana Heart 2 joystick that the Hori button shades were definitely lighter for yellow and pink. Stack the Sanwa buttons by the original soldered-in Hori buttons the difference is noticeable; the Sanwa buttons were appreciably darker-shaded.

Look at the color comparisons where they have them on Focus Attack and Paradise Arcade Shop’s pages.
White is white is white unless someone is trying to do an ivory or light grey shade, everything else is a bit different. I notice what Sanwa calls “indigo”/dark blue has more violet than I’d like. The Sanwa violet itself is a bit pinker than the shade I care for. (I don’t mix and match button brands based on color. I’m going to go all-Sanwa or all-Seimitsu, not mixes and matches of types. There was a Hori joystick that was solicited and eventually had production cancelled because of low pre-orders. People DIDN’T want to buy a joystick with mixed brand button parts! People are more flexible when it comes to mixed joystick levers and buttons. IE, they’ll buy a joystick with all-Seimitsu parts OR Seimitsu lever and Sanwa buttons and vice-versa.)

Mad Catz also sells dustcover kits (clones of the JLF-CD) that seem to match Sanwa colors better… The problem is the price ($5 for a replacement dustwasher/shaft cover kit) and the poor reputation of Mad Catz online store’s customer service. Qanba seems to be a bit cheap to me and the reliability as far as their joystick PCB’s are concerned leaves something to be desired. I know people get the Qanba joysticks because of the dual-system compatibility and their reluctance to do any electrical (re: soldering) work but the PCB’s tend to have a lower reliability factor than the Hori and latest generation Mad Catz PCB’s. *Proceed at your own risk! *
That said, there shouldn’t be a problem with the shaft cover kits.
Seems like the balltop handles Qanba makes break about as often as Hori, Sanwa, or Seimitsu balltop handles break – which is not much when they’re manufactured well and treated right by their owners. Usually the worst you see is mild scratching or surface plastic cracking that doesn’t go deep.


I did NOT notice cheaper shaftcover kits unless you’re talking about transparent versus solid color. The Qanba solids and Sanwa black kits are the same price. If you think a dollar’s difference for a transparent shaft/dustcover is a huge deal, you should find a new hobby. When you get into dollar differences per part that are $10 or more then we’ll talk about “expensive” parts otherwise a dollar’s difference is not huge. (FYI, the value of a dollar today is like 1-cent 100 years ago. Inflation has been that bad!)

Most online stores have sales on-and-off throughout tourney season and in advance of major holidays. Parts generally don’t get the greatest discounts unless you buy in bulk (50 pieces or more, and only on certain parts like quick disconnects and screws); you’re going to find the 30% and higher discounts on complete joysticks.

I try to stay away from the colors I don’t like or have problems matching artworks to or generally don’t want to be caught dead in public with. I actually don’t mind pink so much but have a hatred towards violet, indigo, and white… White’s the most overused parts color in joysticks after black cases.

Thanks for all that informative post.

Yeah, I’m pinching pennies, it’s just how I personally have to do things. I was just looking for areas I could shave off dollars, but after reading posts here I don’t think it’s worth the change to have a mess of colors.

I actually found the Sanwa balltops for about the same price as Qanba’s on other shops. I think a black washer/shaft cover would look better anyway.

As for painting a case, getting art to match, I know that that’s challenging. I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction for case-coloring, or if it will even be that incredibly noticeable if the shade of blue is off. It might not matter as much as I’m coloring the bottom half of the case, leaving the rest black.

I found several vinyl dye colors that might be a similar enough color:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/VHT9/SP950/N0477.oap?ck=Search_vinyl+dye_-1_-1&keyword=vinyl+dye
and these, not sure if they work on plastic:
http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HVP112-Medium-Performance-Fabric/dp/B00098PO5O
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248924-Automotive-11-Ounce-Fabric/dp/B003CT4ATS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2
http://www.amazon.com/PlastiKote-413-Dark-Vinyl-Paint/dp/B0041S1YN4/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1377311574&sr=8-32&keywords=vinyl+dye+blue

Am I barking up the wrong tree looking at can vinyl dye or should I be looking at something else?

Beware the difference between paint and vinyl dye. Vinyl dye is not a paint, its a dye for plastics, it adds a color dye to the existing plastic, and if your plastic is anything but pure white you end up with a plastic which color is the combination of the two previous colors. Once you vinyl dye plastic, thats it you can’t change it. Also once you paint something you can never scrape it off and paint over.

Also vinyl dye or paint looks terrible on black plastic cases, and they never ever look as good. Well there is a way to paint black plastics but you have to primer first with a neutral gray primer for several coats before paint. I seen B15 and a few other pull it off but that is more of the exception than the rule. More often than not unless you are very experienced in painting I avoid painting black plastic cases all together.

You can paint over vinyl dye though, right? I wish I could see picture results on vinyl dye on black plastic…

I think I might be going with priming and painting several coats then. I’m not beyond trying to learn how to paint over black plastic and I don’t think it’s something only B15 or a few others can do. Sounds not too unlike painting warhammer kits when I was a kid.

There no point in doing so. Unless you are starting with white plastic and you want the plastic underneath to match the paint in case of scratches, but even then…
Maybe if you are doing a design and the dye is the base color.

Painting warhammer miniatures are not anything like painting a black stick case.
It be closer to auto body painting.

As I said before anything that isn’t white adds there color to the vinyl dye color. Use Blue vinyl dye on red plastic and you end up with purple. So with black plastic you only dilute the black color, so the plastic will turn gray, or worst blue.
Vinyl dye was originally intended to restore color to sun damaged automobile vinyl interior or to re-color a automobile vinyl interior.
White dye was only intended to reduce the discoloration of “white” car vinyl.

Its only by a goof people realize Vinyl dye works on ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and PBT Plastic (Polybutylene Terephthalate). Vinyl dye is similar to the dyes used for Dye Sublimation, which is aprinting method for keyboard keys.
It does not work on acrylic, lexan and rubber it ruins and warps the material.
Also Vinyl dye does have a solvent if used too much will ruin plastics as it an solvent for plastics.

I just mean if a mistake somehow occurs, vinyl dye isn’t absolutely permanent, it can be painted over. I’m sure it’s way different then miniature painting, but I just mean if I learned how to do that I have faith I can get the results I want if I research well, but it’s still really new. I didn’t know what vinyl dye was a few days ago.

As for vinyl dye, from what I’ve been reading about it, I’ve seen a few places say that white dye can be used on black plastic, which will turn it into a grey, making it more suitable for applying a color like blue over it. Is this true? If so I can test it on some black plastic, and see how the color holds, but still, that doesn’t get my that much closer to getting a color match I imagine.

I’ve heard a few automotive places are able to mix dye, so I wonder if I could look into that, but I fear it’ll be very expensive.

Oh Yes it is.
Its like using a big fat sharpie to draw on untreated wood, and you went over your design serval times.
Vinyl dye does not coat plastic the way paint does, it soaks in at least a few millimeters into the material up to a quarter inch depending on the amount used and the plastic (That is alot of material there).
You could try to sand off the color, but you be at it for quite a while and you more than likely ruin the piece.

Even if you dye a black case with white vinyl dye I still suggest using primer a few times.
1. primer will hide the color underneath
2. the primer allows paint to “bite” into the material not just to coat the case but to make a chemical and physical bond.
This way the paint is more unlikely to peel or crack later on.

But could you white vinyl dye the plastic, and then dye the grey plastic the desired color, accounting for the fact the dyes will mix and the color will be slightly off?

Not slightly off, it be a direct combination of all colors.
Even then to get near the desired results with BLACK plastic you need ALOT of white vinyl dye.

Even then, it never look right.

You are better off using primer and paint. Even then do not rely on your skills painting miniatures in this.

An excerpt from thePAINTING THE FIGHTSTICK (WITH KRYLON OR VINYL DYE)thread

You can dye after painting plastic, but it takes a LOT of work. I refinished one of my sticks recently that I had painted with Krylon Fusion and I wanted to replace it because it began chipping. It took a lot of patience and sanding with 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1200, and 2000 grit sandpaper. I’ve also redyed black plastic with white dye before dying it burgundy, but again, it takes a lot of patience and a lot of vinyl dye. If it’s plastic that’s never been dyed or painted, you can dye it white (and you better make sure you take the time to do it properly) and then dye it whatever color you want. I’m not advocating it, I’m just saying it’s possible. Unless you’re someone who pays a ridiculous amount of attention to detail and hate it when things aren’t exactly right (i.e. me), just prime/paint/clearcoat. You’ll be happier for it.

Depending on the brand of paint used, this can go horribly wrong.
I had this happen to a Keyboard I tried to paint once.

As I said before, majority of black plastic cases painted never looked right in the end, I seen modders who pulled it off before, but they are few and far between.

I’ve done a lot of case painting and did convert7-8 pink and yellow buttons to red buttons.

IMHO, it’s a lot more work than I generally want to do.
Most of the spray paints out there run and they are inconsistent across the brand.

I would NOT recommend Krylon or Rustoleum for colors – very inconsistent. Some colors work well, some don’t, some formulations go on in nice neat layers, others bubble, drip, or run no matter what you do. Rustoleum clear coat/gloss is fine BUT you must absolutely be sure that your color paint is bone-dry otherwise the clear coat can react with wet paint and MELT the plastic!

(Before I go on further – repeat after me: Dupli-color vinyl and fabric spray is NOT vinyl dye.

(Okay, go on!)

I never had anything vital destroyed but I did have a reaction between red Dupli-color vinyl and fabric paint and clear coat. It did partially melt a few layers of a plastic piece I was going to glue onto a case… It was able to peel off a little bit of the plastic like onion skin. Not a good thing! On the other hand, the amount of damage done was so little I was able to patch it with another small piece of plastic and I painted the piece over again. You can bet I waited an extra day during warm weather for the paint to dry before I put on clear coat again!

I’d say overall I had better luck with the Dupli-color paint but A) it worked very well on off-white cases (Agetecs); B) I stuck to very basic colors (white, red) and didn’t try to go fancy or do striping, etc. Keep the paint job as simple as you can. It generally looks better in a solid color anyway. C) My final rounds of painting I used Adhesion Promoter. I think the stuff actually worked and more of the paint stayed bound to the upper layers of plastic. It definitely helped as far as the white paint was concerned. It felt for a while I couldn’t get the light gray case to that shade of white I wanted… I went through over half a can of Dupli-color spray paint to get the color consistent and as even as I could. Great thing about Dupli-color is that it tended to “even” itself out if you maybe had a bit of dripping with a paint application. Can’t say that about Krylon or Rustoleum. It seemed like with those brands if you didn’t get an even coat you were screwed one way or the other.
D) An outer clear coat gloss or flat coat is an absolute must. It will protect your finished paint job and if you appreciate a gloss like me it generally looks better… Clear coats also have the advantage of protecting white paint from yellowing if you get the right brand. Rustoleum clear coat is excellent for anti-yellowing spray. Something to keep in mind!
E) IF you have to sand the case to get out light scratches or paint bubbles, for goodness’ sake use a 600 or higher grit sandpaper! 300 grit doesn’t cut it and can actually create new scratches that are an even bigger hassle to get out. Yes, it feels likes the higher grit sandpaper takes longer to do its job BUT the results will be much smoother and your finished product will look nicer. Glad I learned that lesson quick.

As big a pain as it was to paint joystick cases, the buttons were worse. About half of what I painted developed air bubbles that I had to sand down and THEN pay had to be reapplied. What some people don’t understand about painting buttons is that you absolutely MUST sand off the top layer of clear finish OR your paint will not stick to the buttons adhesion promoter or not. Again, use the right sandpaper to remove the gloss coat of the buttons… 600 grit or higher. DO NOT go lower than 600 grit or you’ll be sorry!
My personal results were pretty decent. The red I used worked out well for the buttons I converted but I have to say you’re better off color matching from the factory rather than trying to convert other button colors into what you want/need. I seemed to do okay with converting yellow and pink buttons as well as white. I don’t know that darker colors like black and indigo would have worked out as well!