ColecoVision Super Action Controller button upgrade

I noticed that ColecoVision Super Action buttons sometimes are very unresponsive. those buttons have lots of play and you can fully press them and still not actuate them. They almost feel like analog buttons but have real long throw.

For those unfamiliar, the ColecoVision Super action controller has a four button pistol grip and a joystick on top with a protruding top with the keypad and speed roller.

The thing that consistently goes wrong are the buttons.

There were completes about the action buttons and the keypad buttons on the standard Atari 5200 controller.

Best Electronics of California has a mod kit for the 5200 sticks where you could replace the buttons and never have to worry about fixing them ever again, assuming normal use.

I’m assuming that the buttons on the super action controller I just extremely long throw digital buttons.

If that’s the case then the hardest thing to do is to find finger triggers. If I had to describe their shape simply, they’re saddle shaped.

Do any of the typical joystick shops have any saddle shaped digital buttons? maybe there’s just a way to mod the electronics portion and use the real button caps from the super action controller.

Also would be a way to reduce the distance needed to hit the button so that it feels clicky and not spongy.

I don’t know off hand anywhere selling exactly what your after but you may be able to have some 3d printed. Can you take it apart and take some pictures?

Here’s a pic.

Now that I think about it, it’s not so much the button caps as it is the actuation method. Let me see if I can find the pic of the capless button pcb.

Ah okay, cool. Are you wanting to keep the joystick trigger grip as close as possible to original but tweaked so they feel responsive or are you prepared to move to a different input method? Was there a joystick that felt closer to how you want it for another system that you could use and then just modd to work with the colecovision? The quickshot for Amiga was a great stick for anything other than fighting games. What do you plan on playing with it?

The default Super Action stick is good for the type of games Coleco plays.

It’s the buttons that are the big problem. the long button throw makes rapid firing a finger workout.

I know ergonomically it’s a different design than a traditional fight stick. This was the mentality of pre-crash joystick design. You gain ambidexterity and what you lose by it is arm symmetry. One arm has to reach higher or further than the other which causes muscle pains which forces you to switch sides. So home-style ambidexterity wasn’t just a feature, it was a necessity. The other thing you lose is the fact that it’s handheld and it’s so heavy.

I was just seeing how easy it was to remove the long throw of the buttons.

My main coleco joystick will be the stick on my website , trying to combine the best of modern joystick design with ambidexterity. Since it is a naked PCB-free joystick initially and you add the PCB with a db37 hookup, I just have to hire my laborer, Stan Escolano, to wire up an Edladdin ColecoVision PCB to my db37 to be used on the Sinister Stick.

By the way there’s one big issue you’re going to have to worry about with ColecoVision that is unique to the ColecoVision, and I did that in anticipation of my Sinister Stick: I don’t know what the correct exact electrical term is but there’s basically two return paths or two grounds. The directions and first action button use ground A, the second through fourth buttons and presumably the keypad to use ground B. I have no idea which ground the speed roller uses for its return.

Luckily, I have one super action controller where the joystick was busted. I was going to have built a cradle to hold a super action joystick so that the keyboard and the speed wheel could be used, and we don’t have to go about bother recreating them, just connect them with a DB9 straight-pin-for-pin y cable. If you can’t figure out a technology, Incorporated intact into a new design.

As for the solution, I use more pins (37?!) and gave each input a separate ground and have the PCB combine them which would normally be into one ground but in the Colecovision PCB will be to the two corresponding grounds based on where it should normally go.

And also I got a microchip-free way of enforcing it when switching controls: binding the appropriate input and its respective ground in a 3.5 mm TRS cable. I could have used a TS system but first, TRS equipment is cheaper than TS. And second, if there’s something I haven’t anticipated I could use the extra signal for something.

If you open the superex controllers you notice there’s a very analog connector like a rod that presses into a button. That’s why natively Colecovision super action controllers are considered high maintenance. Just about as high maintenance as the notorious Atari 5200 controller. But Best Electronics solved that.

Not sure what to go on from that. Probs can’t be of help. Bol with it project

Yeah and I found out I don’t need help from you. Not that there’s anything wrong with you or your work. You do good work, I assume, not my personal experience. I was told by default you like everybody and assume everyone will like you until you give someone a reason to hate them or them to hate you. And you should avoid hate as much as possible.

Since 95 to 100% ( or close enough to 100% to be insignificantly different from 100% unless counting heads) of the joystick action seen here is Super NES, Genesis, Turbo Grafx16 and later, I can understand why most joystick shops don’t carry the saddle shaped coleco style buttons. And there’s nothing wrong with the buttons themselves. It’s just the way they’re actuating that’s wrong long term.

And besides, if my Sinister Stick is going to be my primary stick fixing and permamoffing a Super Action Controller is kind of flushing my money and your time down the toilet, which I’m sorry for right now. :frowning:

Forgive me? I just wanted to see if there was a price quote for something but now that I realize that even price quoting takes time, so forget this post ever existed except if someone searches it on Google and would like to take up the project themselves.