sigh im going to do something i really really wish i wasnt but…i think im about to go buy mvc2…anyone wanna play? ughhh
edit: nope nm the urge passed in 2 min and im not getting it yay me
The Elites have a diffrent power supply then the older models.
Yea Jerry, I’ll bring MBAC. You still got Swap Magic?
I should practice some Accent Core. Haven’t played that game in months.
lol D:
my ps2 is modded, so should be okay.
Funny that you guys are mentioning AC cause me Kurt,Perseo and Aki were playing BB/SF4 and than when Aki left we played GGAC all night lol
I really wanna get back into the game.
-Frankie 
When flying w/ Sent, learn how to use his normals. You’ll be looking to poke and out-prioritize, mainly w/ j.LK and j.HP, respectively. Only throw out RP’s to either surprise peg’em from fullscreen (use sparingly) and in combos.
Actually, since you’re still learning the ropes, I would recommend you swap Magneto for CapCom. At least for now.
You’re about right on the spacing/zoning comment. The spacing/zoning vs. rushdown/mixup argument comes down to what character/team you’re using. For example, you’ll wanna space more w/ certain characters/teams (i.e. Cable, or Team Scrub*), while w/ others, you’ll wanna jus’ rush’em down, then mix shit up 'til death (i.e. Magneto, or MSP**). Then there are those that you do both w/ and it comes down to player preference (i.e. Storm/Sentinel, or Team Santhrax/Matrix***). Also, after that…you’ll have to adjust and counter the style of what you’re fighting against.
And yes, the mixups do get pretty ridiculous…w/ some characters, you have as many as 6 options (high/low/throw…on either side).
For wavedash****, jus’ mash on D+2P, or, to WD forward, d/f+2P xN and backwards is d/b+2P xN. Be careful w/ the motion though, 'cuz you might get a super to come out.
And lastly, if you haven’t already, go through George’s old MvC2 thread (the one linked in the 1st post of this thread). A lot of good info. in there for beginners.
- Mike
- Team Scrub = Cable <B> | Sentinel <Y> | CapCom <B>
** MSP = Magneto <A> | Storm <A> | Psylocke <B>
*** Santhrax = Storm <A> | Sentinel <Y> | CapCom <B> (either Storm or Sentinel can start)
*** Matrix = Storm <A> | Sentinel <Y> | Cyclops <B>
**** Wavedashing = canceling the 2nd half of a dash (and later recovery; think cutting your run recovery w/ a FD in GG) into a crouch, then into another dash. This is done for 2 reasons. First, speed. The initial part of a dash is usually faster than the latter. So you’re basically canceling the fast part of the dash into itself. And the second reason, distance. WD-ing covers a lot of distance in a short amount of time.
Sort of, there’s only 3 different power bricks as of now.
originals draw 16.5 amps (somewhere around there)
elites (any with a falcon board really) draw 14.5 amps (somewhere around there)
jaspers draw some other lower value (you don’t have one of those)
just look on the back of the 360 on the sticker where the power is input, it’ll tell you what input you need, they’re all the same voltage…just different current draws, if you aren’t sure, just find an original power brick that supplies the > 16 amps, you can’t hurt it being able to supply more.
if you need one, you can buy one on ebay for like 15 bucks at the most.
I’m looking into getting a Japanese 360 very soon.
I heard ones loaded with Jasper are less prone to malfunction (confirm?). Are most models on the market now with Jasper?
Jasper chipsets are technically less prone to issues because they run cooler, but no model is immune to RRoD because they still use lead-free solder (great for the environment, bad for their design).
And it’s still really hard to find a jasper 360 from what I understand (google before you go out shopping for one to see if there’s any GOOD way of finding one), most you find now are Falcon chipsets. Which are vastly better than the originals, but at least you can consistently find those guys.
question though, why get a japanese 360? if you want to play imports you could always just save yourself shipping hassle and flash the american version’s firmware, I understand that it makes the thing region free, although I could be wrong.
what if u only wanna play import games
Stupid MAME not reading my fightpad…really starting to piss me off. Works just fine with my stick, but I’m bringing that to work to own half the people who want to play Garou or XVSF during lunch break.
So what’s new?
Do PS3 sticks work on the PC? MAME in particular? I want to play old school tag team fighting games so bad. i.e XvSF, MvC, MvSF etc.
For some reason I can never get the roms/emulators work right, so help in that area is also appreciated. I’m running Vista on my laptop btw.
Somebody showed me how to distinguish between the Falcon and Jasper crests, but I don’t really know beyond that.
I just want to play Japanese imports.
How does flashing work? Do I need to take the 360 apart at all?
does windows recognize the FP in the controller setup area of control panel?
if not you probably need to install the drivers if you haven’t done that already. I needed to do that in order for my 360 FP to work in windows correctly.
The official SF4 PS3 sticks do work on PC’s, but not as seamlessly as the 360 sticks. Particularly, the SE and TE sticks require that you have an Intel based motherboard to work. I, myself, have a NVIDIA chipset in my PC, and the sticks do NOT work. The only workaround is to buy a PCI USB adapter, which I did, and now works perfectly.
If you’ve got a laptop it may complicate things. If it’s Intel-based it’ll be fine. Note: the motherboard has to be Intel based, not the actual processor. A quick test for you would be to plug the stick into your computer, go to the gamepad devices screen in control panel, and see if the stick is registered. If it is (which it should be, regardless of if you have a Intel board or not), go into the properties of the device and try moving it around. There should be notifications on screen for each individual button, so if you move it around and hit the buttons and you see them being registered, you’re good to go. If not, you’re pretty much FUBAR. Although, hypothetically, like on a desktop, if you were to buy a PCMIA-USB adapter for your laptop, it should work if you’re not Intel based.
Once the stick is working, you just go into the emulator settings and configure the button assignments for the controller of choice (in this case, the stick).
are u using the xbox one or the ps3 one and it is just mame that doesn’t work with it
Gameworks Brawl tonight?
Thanks for the info, but I meant the ROMs/Emulator itself. It took me like so long to find out what exact files I needed to get for 3s to work, that I gave up on others. There are so many versions/files that I probably never got the right combination.
thanks mike! i ll try to work on that for a bit.
Worst nap ever